248 
TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA. 
CHAP. VI. 
opportunity of exacting such penalties, as they not only enrich him, 
but make his subjects stand in awe of him. At ten we proceeded: 
Belford still better, but remaining very giddy. At four, having 
stopped at El Bakkhi to drink the excellent water there, we arrived 
at Gatrone, and put up at the house of our former hostess. 
January 9th. Thermometer 1" 40'. — Belford was much recovered. 
The Kaid this morning made me some excellent ink of the pods of 
the Gurd tree, of which I have already spoken, and a bright yellow 
earth resembling sulphur in colour, easily dissolvible in water, and 
acid to the taste, called Shahaira, and brought from Bilma by the 
Tibboo. 
The news of the return of the army had so frightened the 
people here, that I could not find either a sheep or goat, and was 
obliged to kill a beautiful Majiggri (which I had brought from 
Tegerry, and intended taking to England) to make soup for poor 
Belford. — My hostess informed me that she had lost three children 
in three successive years by the sting of scorpions. Each child was, 
at the time it died, two years of age: all were boys, and all had 
received the sting in the room in which we were. 
The fondness of these people for show is quite as great as at Tri- 
poli. This afternoon a Maraboot, brother to my friend El Hadge el 
Kaschid, and one of the chief men here, came in from the Ghrazzie, 
which he had left at El Bakkhi. He arrived in the gardens early, 
but could not enter the town until some gaudy clothes, and a fine 
horse, had been sent out to him, that he might make his entrance 
as a great personage. In the evening I heard the Tubbel sounded 
for the first time. This is a large drum, which is generally kept at 
the house or hut of the Sheikh. When sounded, it is to announce 
to the natives that news, or some order from the Sultan has arrived, 
which is loudly proclaimed by the Sheikh, or people who may be 
ordered to do so. Those who are at a distance come and Usten to 
i 
