NATRON WELLS OF MO RAD. 
439 
resumed, and continued the journey till three in the 
morning, not feeling so sleepy as we had done the first 
few nights. It seemed extraordinary that the Sheikhs 
could find their way in such a desert in the dark, 
without the aid of hills or trees as landmarks, but 
they do so unfailingly. They are extremely careful, 
and when any of our men lay down for a moment's 
sleep, the ever- vigilant Sheikh would report him for 
being so indifferent to his own life as to linger behind 
for an instant. However, by midnight of the 7th the 
danger was past, and we walked upon rocky ground 
where the Morad valleys commence, and where there 
are springs of brackish water. 
As we approached the natron wells of Morad, the 
country appeared to open, though covered with slaty 
rocks bristling above ground. Hills and valleys, 
patched with drifted sand, presented the most dreary, 
waste-like appearance. The heat was relaxing — a 
crow appeared, and the Sheikh informed us that it was 
a good sign — we should certainly find water in the 
wells. A turn in the road suddenly disclosed a long 
valley below, running from east to west, with camels, 
donkeys, goats, and sheep standing languidly around 
five or six wells. Carcasses of animals were numerous 
in this valley of death. Our camels showed no anxi- 
ety for water, although they had been without it for 
three days ; but they seemed eager to have a roll upon 
a clear patch of sand in view. The well our party 
took possession of was protected from sand by a wall 
on its upper and lower sides. It was dug ten feet 
below the surface, and had only six inches of water. 
After having been used all day it had not run dry ; 
but the water was like saltpetre in taste. In this 
