Oct. ir, 1902.] 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
'ler articles common in Eskimo life, and a mound of 
ioks built over all to protect from the animals and 
irds. 
At Okak, with the Eskimo boy Frederick as guide, we 
isited the place of the early settlement of the Eskimo be- 
•jrc the missionaries came to the coast. Remains of the 
houses were still plainly visible, but the most interest- 
„ relic was the number of graves which we found. In 
lime were visible the perfect skeleton of a single person, 
■hile others showed the bones of four or five lying side 
1^ side. We found pieces of stone lamps and pottery in 
?ry fair shape, but everything of value had disappeared, 
3d 
A young boy had broken an arm some time before the 
arrival of the steamer, and this had been set by the mis- 
Monaries. Carelessly running about he had fallen and 
broken it again much worse, and this the missionaries 
were unable to properly set. The offer to send the boy 
to Hopedale where a doctor is connected with the mission 
was refused by the boy's parents, they fearing that if he 
aid not die his arm would be cut off. 
The older people at Rama were all heathens a few 
years ago, and still retain a great many of their fears and 
superstitions. They are full of doubts and mistrust, are 
slow to understand, and until a stranger has obtained their 
GROUP OF BOYS AT RAMA. 
Photo by J. Westall Borden. 
slaked ToT T""'"''' ^^^^"S ^isit^d and 
H.oM the civilized Eskimo 
e when'^th^^rl ""^f ^^^^P^' in the win^^^ 
e, when the body is kept in a protected place until 
nrner comes and the frost is out of the ground 
.ederick also took us to the big rock which so an 
kuno legend says, was brought from the top of a high 
two miles from Okak by the Eskimo giant Kautjaj ok 
e rock IS sixteen feet in diameter and weighs perhaps 
tons, and tight y wedged into a crack in the c?SS 
Eskimo skull plainly visible from the top. There are 
ny stories of the deeds of strength of the giant Kaut 
ok but among them there are none which afe told wkh 
.Si^'li^iSet^bSfdr ^"-'^^ - --^"^ 
k and forth with the dog teams ovei^ the snow-Lvered 
face, and through these Eskimos they indirectly reach 
en Ki""''!^ rV^'^ occupy the country be- 
len Hudson and Ungava bays. One old squaw at Rama 
on the ground by a comitek cleaning codfish, every 
confidence are unwilhng to part with much information 
i he missionaries on the Labrador coast from Mak- 
kovik to Rama are all of the Moravian faith, and the 
s ations were established and are controlled by the 
Moravian Missionary Society. Too much praise cannot 
be given these men and women for the work they have 
nnfl, rf'"" ."^"'"^ '"l '?"nginff a people, formerly with- 
out any literature and living in a heathen state, to the 
enjoyment of the blessings and comforts of semi-civiliza- 
tion, it was our common experience that we were re- 
ceived at the stations very cordially, and the presence on 
the steamer of many of the families being transferred 
from one station to another, added much to the pleasure 
of our visit to the coast. 
Indians, or mountaineers, as they are called, of the 
Montagnais tribe, occupy the interior of Labrador. Thev 
make a trip each summer to the eoast with the skins and 
turs trapped during the winter and trade at the Hudson 
Bay posts. The return trip is made in the early fall 
Ihe permanent white population consists of adventurers 
irom Newfoundland and in the northern part of descend- 
ants of servants of the Hudson Bay Company who have 
ESKIMOS IN SUMMER CAMP^ FORD's HARBOR. 
Photo by J. Westall Borden. 
and then tossing a piece of refuse to the waiting 
, and took no more notice of the party from the 
ner and the excitement occasioned by its visit than 
were an every-day occurrence. Another stationed 
id a mound was trying to coax a little fire into a few 
5 and vines which were to furnish the heat for a pot 
out. 
e entered one of the underground abodes with a mis- 
ry as interpreter. A stone lamp gave out a faint 
from the center of the room, near which a girl sat 
ig on some garment. A couch covered with furs, 
ou skins and seal skin garments, occupied one end of 
apartment, while lying about in confusion were 
es of the hunt, dress, tools for making and repair- 
a vessed containing molasses and a plate of blubber 
•ntrails, and in one corner the pile of stones on which 
ae the little cooking required. At the further end of 
partnient was a partition, and another but smaller 
- Groans were suddenly heard coming from this 
, and upon investigation the missionary reported an 
nan very sick. Somebody suggested typhoid fever, 
I stampede for the outside and fresh air took place, 
[ Ijoat was sent for the ship's doctor. 
rnarned Eskimo women and remained on the coast after 
their term of service had expired. These latter are called 
planters and engage in the codfishery in the summer 
the winter move inland to the wooded country 
around the heads of bays and engage in the trapping of 
tur animals. The whole permanent population of Labra- 
dor, Lskimos, Indians and planters, is estimated to be 
about 14,000. 
Rama was our turning point, and with a last look north 
toward Chidley, Hudson Bay and Baffin Land, and with a 
thought of the man who was waiting for the ship and 
cargo destined never to reach him, we steamed south and 
after touching again at Hebron and Okak, reached Nain 
during the afternoon of Sept. i. 
Taking a family for Makkovik, a newly wedded couple 
for Hopedale, the wrecked crew of the Mariner, and our 
own belongings, except our tent, which we "truckied" 
for three pairs of camiks (skin boots), we were off again 
toward evening, and anchored for the night about 8:30 
five miles south of Lord's Harbor. Soon after, as I was 
writing in the cabin, I suddenly heard hurried steps on 
the deck above, but thought nothing of it, until one of 
the passengers hurried through the cabin, calling my at- 
deck fr!^1 ^^'^ ^'"P °" fi"^- Going on 
deck, I found considerable commotion. The companion- 
SciV'n .fn^" .t'T'?' boats loosened, lines of hose 
h irt J ^lo"^ the deck, and a line of men were passing 
fnfLt ° li'"\°''1 was pouring. The fire was confined 
to the forecastle deck, and the greatest danger seemed to 
be that It might communicate with the oil and a keg of 
powder stored there. 
..Zrl-J'"'^ largely augmented by the men of the 
7n ftjr "'^T were aboard, and it was largely due 
1. .% /°"/ T'K^l^^ P°^^der was rescued and the 
hre subdued after half an hour's stubborn fighting. 
We touched at Hopedale and the intervening fishing 
who S ^T'^'^ °" wrecked cS 
who had come so far south in the whaleboats. We hean^ 
'TamiaW' fh^l ^^^^^''^^l their own account ofihe 
iaraialupa (bad job), as the Eskimo would call it of 
their camp on the shore after the wreck, of their guarding 
of the wreck from the 'pirates," of the auction, and finahy 
of their trip south m the whaleboats. ^ 
whiv^hf ' ^ large part of their summer's work was 
what they personally felt the most, of course, and they' 
dll had some expression of sympathy for Jensen 
As It turned out, however, Jensen was relieved after all 
Upon our arrival at St. John's and the news of the loss of 
the cargo reaching the owners of the whaling statioh a 
Sd'lf th'r" chartered, a cargo of fuppt^de- 
wifrl ^ -PV^" the return trip 
closed ^^^^^ "^^de before ice 
closed the North Sea to navigation. 
We touched at Makkovik, the most southern and re- 
cently established of the missionary stations, and every- 
thing went along smoothly until thl coal gave out in the 
vicmity of Indian Harbor. • 
nrJv """"l ^ much-f rcqucntcd coast with 
net Lf nn°?h T'^ "^'t ^ °f ^ttle mo- 
s on '.ni 1.*^^ Labrador, where there is no such provi- 
sion and where every steamer intends to go coaled for 
irthe'm^Jlf L"'°'' We were fortunate 
L . K-f ' for on steaming into Smoky, there 
lay a Mediterranean steamer waiting for fish with her 
decks piled up with fine Welch coal The two captains 
irnm f h/1.1.^^fTif "*A ^"'^ '^''""^y transferred 
T .1^ ^ . °^ 9^ Armourer to the hold of the Grand 
' .u ^' and exasperatingly slow process, better 
from sTjohn"s.''^''"'^ ""^^'^^ for reinforcements 
t.??^tf'!u^ f*"""" ^^""^y went humming up Hamil- 
ton In et, the argest bay on the Labrador coast, forty-six 
miles to Rigolette, an old-established Hudson Bay posf 
Rigolette IS situated in the narrows of the bay, and be- 
yond the bay again widens out, and is navigable ninety 
miles further up to Northwest River, another Hudson 
Bay post, ,n charge of the chief factor at Rigolette The 
Rigolette post IS the headquarters for the company on the 
coast, tlie factor having charge of the posts at Cart- 
wright, Davis Inlet and Nachvak 
fJrl"^ ^'11^ along Hamilton Inlet are high and rocky and 
Im7 ^^".'^"^^fd with a small growth of spruce, fir and 
game count^.""" appearance suggests a fine 
^.Y^FIllf .^^Solette consists of about a dozen houses, 
and "plamers.'' """^ ^ ^""^ "^'^^ 
Under fair skies and with a comfortable coolness in the 
air, we continued south, stopping at every spot where 
here was a possibility of picking up a letter or getting a 
bit of mformation about the fishing. Taking on a corpse 
at one place, cripples and invalids at others, two Amer- 
ican fishermen who in their dory had become separated 
irom their Gloucester schooner, seventy miles oflf the 
coast, at another, with four wrecked crews aboard, alto- 
gether we taxed the capacity of the ship 
stops at Punch Bowl, Bolsler, Snug Harbor and vari- 
ously named Tickles, brought us once more to Battle 
?xru°^' ^"d last stop on the coast 
When we came on deck Sept. 8 we had left the Labra- 
dor shore for good, and a dim outline only was visible in 
the distance. Past Belle Isle and Cape Bauld. we con- 
tinued along the east coast of Newfoundland all day, and 
Sunday passed Baccalieu. and Grates Point during the 
morning, reached Harbor Grace, the second city in New- 
foundland, shortly after noon. 
After a short stop, during which we had a glimpse of 
green fields, bright flowers and many welcome signs of 
civilization, we were once more on our wav, this time 
express for St. John's. Past the high sandstone cliffs 
of the rugged coast, the little clumps of white cottages of 
the fishermen, through the fortressed gates of the en- 
trance to St. John's magnificent harbor, with the boom- 
ing of our cannon echoing through the hills, and with 
but two baskets of coal left in the ship's hold, at 7 o'clock 
we were at the dock and our cruise to the Labrador was 
^°ded. c. S. Hawkins. 
More About Sport. 
Availing myself of the privilege which the rules of 
debate accords to me I will reply briefly to Coahoma's 
passing word." 
I am very gmteful for his "distinguished" considera- 
tion, and would assure him that no apologies are due 
me, as his manner of writing has not worried me or 
wounded my sensibilities in the least degree. 
However, I must remind him that the subject of our 
controversy is his assertion "That the procurement of 
something useful as a result of the chase is an essential 
element of true sport. 
_ I must also point out to him that this sentence which 
<iefines and limits the issue between us, is in the present 
tense. 
. How then, I would most respectfully ask him, can that 
issue be proved or disproved except by "existing condi- 
tions and their approximate causes?" Or in plain terms, 
by facts as we find them at the present time ? 
"It appears to me" that Coahoma, in trying to prove 
his assertion with theories in regard to what happened in 
past centuries, is taking altogether too broad a view of 
the subject, and that he is at the wrong end of the tele- 
scope with which he is viewing the logic of present facts 
which would explain why he regards such logic as •nar- 
row and superficial." 
