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measure the increase and rise of the river ought to be 
an object of the highest importance to an enlightened 
government, since it gives it a certain means of being 
forewarned against disasters, which would be inevita- 
ble in other countries, where they cannot foresee what 
will be the degree of abundance, until the moment of 
gathering in the crops. It was on this account that the 
French made it an object of particular attention. It is 
to them the praise is due, of having formed the superb 
walk, with the rows of trees, which traverses the island 
of Rouda from south to north. 
We returned to Old Cairo, or Massar-el-atik, a 
suburb upon the right bank of the river, facing the 
island of Rouda and Djiza. 
It is said that this suburb was formerly more agreeable* 
than Cairo, on account of the great number of pleasure 
houses which persons of rank, and fortune had here; 
but it is now indeed Old Cairo, for the deserted houses 
are falling into ruins. I saw the soldiers pulling them 
to pieces for the sake of the wood, which they sold. 
Notwithstanding this destruction, Old Cairo seems 
to have many inhabitants. I perceived the public 
markets abundantly supplied. 
There are several convents belonging to different 
Christians in the town. I visite'd the Greek monastery, 
which is situated in a line position, having an elevated 
terrace, which commands a view of the town and 
country. From it I perceived the pyramids of Sakkara, 
which seem to rival in height those of Djiza. There is 
one of them which has the singularity of being con- 
structed with very large steps. 
In the monastery is a chapel dedicated to St. George, 
which is held in great veneration in the country. The 
saint is represented in a little picture that is placed over 
