22 
During this time, the mosques, the houses, and the 
streets, are fully illuminated. Hundreds and thousands 
of lights may be seen in the great saloons of the rich, 
which consist in general of plain crystal, or coloured 
lamps, suspended to iron circles of different diameters, 
and placed one above another like lustres. They pro- 
duce a charming effect, and no unpleasant smell; for 
the smoke passes out at the ventilators, which are in 
the cupolas that form the roof of the apartments. 
The inhabitants run like mad people in the streets 
on Easter day. The green leaves of date palms are 
sold. The men walk with these in their hands, whilst 
the women in groups go on each side, several of them 
crying, and uttering loud shrieks. The traditional law 
commands that they should visit the sepulchres on this 
day; but I strongly suspect that this public custom, 
which is prescribed by the law, is a vestige of the an- 
cient worship of Adonis, or A dona i; so near is the 
analogy between them. On account of our lunar year, 
Easter does not fall now in the spring, except eight 
times in the period of thirty- three years. 
The citadel, which commands the city, is itself 
commanded by a mountain in the neighbourhood, so 
that it cannot sustain a regular siege. In the citadel is 
the celebrated well of Joseph, so often described by 
travellers. 
The revolt of some Arabs, who infest the vicinity 
of the pyramids, prevented me from approaching them; 
but I determined to go as near them as it was possi- 
ble. With this view I repaired to Djiza; and, leaving 
the village, I advanced towards the pyramids with my 
people, who were armed, to a certain point, when I 
retired, as it would have been rash to have ventured 
farther; for there were several parties of the enemy on 
