241 
guide upon mules. I perceived plainly that our march 
was much quicker than that of the caravans, for we 
travelled I believe a league an hour. 
The country we had traversed consisted of small 
connected hills, covered with olive trees, plantations of 
tobacco, &c. 
Ramie, which is called by the Christians Rama, is a 
town that contains about two thousand families. The 
great mosque is an ancient Greek church, the tower of 
which is very lofty, fine, and in good preservation. 
I was lodged in a pretty mosque, near which is the 
tomb of Aayoub Rey, a Mamelouk who fled from 
Egypt upon the arrival of the French, and who died 
here. The tomb is of beautiful white marble, with basso 
relievos, and inscriptions; the latter are gilt. The Turk- 
ish Aga, who came to pay me a visit, appeared to be 
an excellent man. 
I continued my journey at nine o'clock the same 
evening. In traversing the town I found a great many 
of the inhabitants, men as well as women, assembled in 
an open place, illuminated by a number of lights and 
fires, dancing and singing to the sound of instruments. 
This assemblage of both sexes in a Mussulman town 
surprised me exceedingly. 
Upon leaving the town I entered among the moun- 
tains, when I was obliged to climb steep rocks, over 
which no road had been formed. On arriving upon the 
heights about half past two in the morning, we found 
ourselves enveloped in clouds and fogs, which, with the 
light of the moon, displaying the frightful precipices 
that surrounded, formed an imposing and magnificent 
picture. 
Preceded by my guide, and followed by my servants 
at some distance, I walked absorbed in the contempla- 
Vol. II. 2 H 
