365 
at the bottom of which is a river which runs towards 
the north. There is a bridge over it, which we crossed, 
and ascended another hill which rises rapidly from the 
water's edge, and is steeper but not so long as the 
former. We then descended into a large valley, and 
arrived at half past three at Kutaieh, a large and hand- 
some town, the capital of the province of Nadoulia or 
Natolia, and the residence of the Pacha. It is situated 
upon the slope of a mountain: the houses are built 
partly of stone and partly of wood, and are painted en- 
tirely over. TneJ^l have large windows, and kiosques 
or belvideres, and the greater part have fine gardens, 
which form a superb landscape. The mountain, which 
commands the city, is crowned by an ancient castle. 
The streets, at least those which I passed through, were 
dirty, badly paved, and encumbered in the middle by a 
stream of thick muddy water. I saw two markets 
abundantly furnished with fine fruits and vegetables; 
the meat is good and plentiful, and the flour market is 
well stocked. There are a number of mosques and some 
handsome buildings. 
The carts used in the country are drawn by oxen or 
buffaloes, and are so small that they can hardly contain 
two persons seated. The oxen are of a small breed, 
with horns as short as those upon the coast of Barbary; 
the buffaloes, on the contrary, are very large, and their 
horns are enormous. These animals are used also in 
agricultural labour; I saw some at Antioeh, which 
served as beasts of burden, having large packages upon 
their backs. 
Thursday, I5th 9 and Friday, 16th October. 
My guide forced me to stay at Kutaieh during these 
two days, under pretence of not being able to procure 
