313 
It is on account of these odious vexations that many 
Inhabitants put themselves under the protection of 
the European consuls, who have the privilege of ad- 
mitting a certain number of them. These proteges en- 
joy exactly the same immunities and exemptions as the 
individuals of the nation that protects them.* They 
have, as a sign of distinction, a large mitre of bear's 
skin, called calpac, with the hair very black; but I saw 
several Greeks who, though not protected, wore the cal- 
pac, and the Turks did not prevent them from so doing, 
The mosques of the country, with the exception of 
St. Sophia, which the Turks call Aia Sofia, are very 
poor, and very ugly. 
I have said, that every Friday before the noon prayer, 
the imaum preaches a sermon in Arabic; but here no 
Turkish imaum knows that language. Their sermons 
are reduced to some short phrases, which they learn by 
heart, and which they always repeat like parrots, with- 
out understanding what they themselves say, and with- 
out being understood by their auditors. Although Ara- 
bic ought to be the sacred language, there are not per- 
haps in the whole island of Cyprus, ten persons who 
understand it. 
It is remarkable in this country, that the sign or ges- 
ture of the body to express the negative, not, should be 
to raise the head in the way Europeans do to express 
contempt or mockery. 
The action of contempt is expressed by putting the 
tip of the tongue between the lips, and pronouncing 
ptou, as if they were going to spit. The European sign 
or shake of the head for no, is unknown here. 
* These privileges have ceased in Turkey lately. (Note of the 
editor.) 
VOL. I. r r 
