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city, who practise the occupation of footmen and 
grooms; they are called saiz; and when purchases of 
horses are made, they intrigue in the affair, according 
as it suits their interest. When a person rides out on 
horseback, it is usual for the sa'iz to walk before, with 
a stick painted red or green, commonly seven or eight 
feet long, which he holds perpendicularly in his hand* 
The pachas and other chiefs are preceded by several 
saiz, who then walk two and two, provided their num- 
bers are considerable; this suite resembles in a certain 
degree the processions I have seen in Europe. 
There are no schools in Alexandria for the sciences. 
The art of writing is reduced to the most rude forms. 
The schoolmasters, not being subjected to any exami- 
nation or particular inspection, form each their written 
characters according to their caprice. To abridge, every 
one alters the form of his letters in his own way. The 
Copts, the Greeks, the Jews, in short, every tribe, have 
a particular feature in their writing; so that the life of a 
man is not long enough to learn to read correctly. 
Those who wish to study go to Cairo. The most 
respectable scheiks in the city give lectures in the prin- 
cipal mosques, which serve to diffuse instruction. The 
scheik when he delivers his lectures is seated in the 
middle of the mosque upon a carpet, and the auditors 
form a circle at a distance round him; those who arrive 
in succession, form circles beyond, being all seated 
with the greatest regularity upon the ground. There is 
a little green candle placed upon a low table in the 
middle. Opposite the scheik is seated a reader with 
papers in his hand. These papers contain generally the 
articles of the principal commentators or expounders of 
