379 
Every time the band came to my house, the schaoux 
began by paying me a compliment on the part of his 
highness. The musicians seated themselves in a half 
circle upon the ground before my sopha, the schaoux 
being at their head. The instruments were always pre- 
viously tuned, and upon my signal began to play an 
adagio, in which one of them followed the theme; the 
two others played a continual bass, pianissimo. The 
kettle drums did not play. So far the thing went on 
well enough, and was tolerable, nay, even agreeable in 
some passages; but when they commenced an andante 
or an allegro, in which the drums and the singers took 
their parts, it was then that my poor ears, accustomed 
to hear a regular harmony, payed forfeit for the delight- 
ful sounds they had heard in Europe. 
After this clatter had lasted a quarter of an hour, the 
singing ceased, and the instruments continued to play. 
At last the drums ceased, and the remainder resumed 
the adagio as at first; after which the musicians made 
me a bow, and thus the first act finished. Coffee was 
served to them. They then performed a second act, 
with the same ceremonies, and in every point like the 
first. I applauded their musical talent, asked them 
some questions, when, after having desired the schaoux 
to present my respects and thanks to his highness, I 
gave them a small gratification, and they went away 
very content. This scene was renewed more than twen- 
ty times during the residence of the captain pacha at 
Alexandria. 
Notwithstanding the great commerce of this city, it 
is very singular that there does not exist any public 
establishment for the conveyance of letter*. Corre* 
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