0O 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
[Aug. I, 1903. 
above, where the waters of the lake take their first step 
downward. Here, close to the head of this dangerous 
rapid, are any number of trout that will scale from 4 
to 6 povmds. Large trout that know not the wiles of the 
angler are constantly working in from the lake. This 
would mean glorious fly-fishing, but, alas ! the great depth 
of water near the center, where most of the fish resort, 
hopelessly precludes success, except on those rather rare 
occasions when they seek the surface. The little fly 
pocket close .up to the west bank, is the fly-fisher's hope, 
and a pretty slim one at that. Seldom does a big fish ap- 
pear in its shoaling water. I never met with any success 
below the falls, except with wall-eyed pike, which I took 
up to 5 pounds, but not on the fly. 
Our tent, at first, was pitched close to the path, in. 
close proximit}^ to hornets, that eventually caused us to 
move off nearer the falls. Occasionally a band of Indians 
halted at our camp to chat with the guides. They appear 
to lead a happy care free life. These merry children of 
the forest are possessed of manj'^ sterling qualities. To 
their bravery and consummate skill in handling the frail 
birch in running the rapids, many a sportsman is indebted 
for his life. 
The swift current of this river is often a deadly trap to 
the unwary. Alas! in the midst of our woodland joys, 
like a bolt from the blue, came the harrowing account of 
the bright j'oung life that was quenched forever in the 
ccld embrace of the canal rapids. This deplorable acci- 
dent could have been easily avoided despite a solemn 
warning from the guides. Mr. Andrews, accompanied 
by his son, both good canoemen, but unacquainted with 
the conditions that prevail on the river, paddled out on to 
the deceitful surface that masks the most treacherous 
piece of wild water on the river. So insignificant is the 
outflow that its siren voice dies away to a vague musical 
murmur, as if entreating a closer inspection of its mys- 
teries. Their sense of danger lulled to sleep, they allowed 
the canoe to cross the danger line, and before they could 
fairly realize their awful peril or lift a paddle in self-de- 
fense, the canoe with its hmnan freight was sucked into 
the ravenous maw of the monster, beneath whose puny 
form exists a world of hidden strength, in vicious whirl- 
pools and' cross currents that palsy every effort of their 
prey to escape from their iron grip. The father miracu- 
lously escaped, but it was many days before the river gave 
up its dead. 
Familiarity with danger often breeds contempt. I re- 
member one time, in running the rapids at Camp Minor, 
my cap dropped behind me. I half turned to recover it, 
when the warning voice of the head guide caused me to 
desist until the worst was over. The smart set and fools 
we have always Avith us. The mortality in the ranks of 
these know-it-alls would be much greater if it were not 
for a wise dispensation of Providence that is popularly 
supposed to keep a watchful eye on their comings and 
goings. These wiseacres declaim about various phases of 
wood life, to their unhappy guide, who pays little atten- 
tion to their prattle, but keeps a sharp watch on their 
movements, lest they stray off, and like the politician 
know no North, South, East or West. Place one of 
these boasters in a strange part of the forest on a cloudy 
day, and his Avisdom will soon depart from him ; his wood 
lore will go up in the air, and after wasting time and 
strength shouting himself hoarse, and running hither and 
yon, with movements as erratic as the antics of a de- 
capitated hen, his strength wanes. Reason resumes her 
sway, a brilliant thought flashes through his brain, and he 
promptly acts on it. His rifle sends its far-reaching voice 
reverberating through the forest; to his joy a faint sound 
drifts down to him; his rifle talks again; he listens eager- 
ly as_ the same weird answer throbs on the air, that after 
one or two more coaxers resolves itself into the far away 
report of a rifle; the noisy conversation that now takes 
place betAveen them ceases to be interesting. 
Men are lost witli compasses, as well as without them, 
the skeleton of a man was discovered in the crotch of a 
tree, his compass and his outfit deposited at the foot. A 
A'^ery sad case occurred recently of a man who separated 
from his companion, and ncA'er rejoined him; he was 
eA-entually found dead in the woods, his compass beside 
him. All this leads up to a rather "thrilling experience 
that happened near Virgin Falls, to one of my Indians. 
Joe Salt, the head guide, came to me one day and in- 
formed me that the boA'' had been, lost, he had strayed 
away from camp to get fire Avood, and lost his bearings. 
The situation must haA^e puzzled him considerabl}^, as he 
was out for some time. It is true he was a boy, say about 
18, but he also was an experienced woodsman and trap- 
per. The average sportsman under such conditions would 
have been utterly unable to extricate himself. It is a dif- 
ferent matter with these half-breeds ; they are very re- 
sourceful, and can manage to exist and suffer hardships 
that would speedily put the civilized mortal out of busi- 
ness. 
1 fancy some of my readers are growing impatient to 
know more about the fascinating, also exasperating ways 
of the Nepigon trout, so taking the hint, T will reel up 
the line of my subject and prepare for a fresh cast. 
Any disbeliever in the cunning and agility of thcvse 
speckled acrobats can have his doubts dispelled in tlio 
rudest manner by taking a hand in the game that is in 
full blast almost any summer CA'ening at the outlet of 
the lake. This romantic spot is Avell patronized by the 
knoAving ones, who use the natural or artificial minnow 
and reap their reward. Far different Avith the little band 
that haunts the fly pocket and worships at the shrine of 
the Parmachenee-belle. The treasures of the fly-book 
are sampled occasionally by the smaller trout, but the big 
speckled are away off. 
For the benefit of the tyro, I will now give the modus 
operandi of bait-fishing. Hook your minnow through 
the head, the mouth is like wet paper. Make a smooth 
cast; after getting your bait afloat the current Avill do the 
rest. The angler must pay out at least 35 yards of line. 
It is impossible to approach much nearer the rapids with 
safety. Now put some life into your minnoAV, and j^ou 
will soon have a taker, unless, as occasionally happens, 
they are off their feed. Watch out for the slightest pull 
and strike instantly or your quarry will elude you. Once 
fairly engaged in a bout with one of these heavy Aveights, 
he will keep you guessing from start to finish. You will 
need to manipulate and often to release the reel Avitii 
lightning quickness, to foil his crafty jerks, and often 
prodigious leaps, Meanwhile keep up a killing strain on 
the rod and promptly take up the slack. They are often 
toAved in apparently done for, but with something "up 
their sleeve." The sight of the net sometimes pitts new 
life into him, so look out, or he will do the trick yet, and 
depart amid a torrent of water and imprecations if the 
angler is of an irascible temperament. A large fish struck 
on the edge of the Avhite Avaler is almost invariably lost 
by tearing loose. The cruel pressure that has often to be 
applied to draAV him away from the friendly embrace 
of the rapids frequently tears the ligaments of his mouth 
and eventuan}^ releases the hook. I lost an immense 
trout from this cause. Another good one that I fastened 
to on the edge of the snowy water broke away. A 
hoodoo occasionally settles down on the most skillful ang- 
ler and palsies all his efforts. Fish are struck, played, 
lost repeatedly; tackle goes back on him; he glares at 
his innocent rod; the Avater and the jolly anglers Avho 
bask in the sunshine of luck. It is bitter medicine, but 
wc'a'c all been there many a time. Under such circum- 
stances it is far better to return to camp before you get 
yourself into trouble with the recording angel. 
Choice of position at the outlet is generally at a prem- 
ium, but one ideal evening my canoe glided out on to its 
quiet surface to find it deserted, Avith not an angler in 
sight to dispute possession. I lost no time getting a line 
out, calculating that the usual croAvd would appear later 
on. The superb fishing that I enjoyed that evening Avill 
linger long in memory. The sport Avas fast and furious; 
beautiful specimens Avere gathered in, all game to the last 
gasp. Our lone canoe patrolled back and forth, varied by 
seeking the quieter Avater, with some unAvilling captive in 
tow. Where Avere the boys to-night? I gaA'e it up, and 
busied myself Avith the merry trout. The sun had long 
since sunk to rest behind the green canopy of forest, the 
hoarse voice of the rapids seemed muffled amid the ad- 
vancing shades of tAvilight. Dim shadows encroached 
upon the fly pocket. It was the angler's hour, but no 
gay moth, resplendent in orange and Avhite, fluttered 
about upon its darkened surface. It Avas deserted by the 
loA^ers of the gentle art, all my trout Avere captured with 
the minnoAv. This is the best lure for large trout. Never- 
theless the record trout of 1902 was taken on a Jock-Scott 
fly, Aveight 6/4 pounds. This gleam of luck brightened 
the future of some happy fly-fisher. 
The Avell-knoAvn freakiness of the Nepigon trout often 
adds an exasperating uncertainty to the .sport. One after- 
noon I repaired to the head of the rapids to have a bout 
Avith the big fellows; but not a sign of life showed above 
or beloAv. The still Avater mocked us. The guides soon 
sized up the situation and headed the canoe for the west 
bank, and trotted off down the trail with their burden. 
I asked no questions, but let them go their own gait. Pres- 
ently they arrived at the foot of the white water, and 
depositing the birch close in to the shore, prepared to 
embark upon the mad current of the river, that scarce a 
paddle's length away Avas running like a mill race, threat- 
ening to sweep our frail bark within the mighty clutch 
of the torrent. The roar of angry Avaters dinned in our 
ears, Avhile the veil of misty spray that hovered above the 
falls threatened to be our winding sheet, should nerve and 
mu.scle fail us. The coveted spot that the guides aimed 
to reach lay at the foot of the rapids. BraA'c and confi- 
dent, they fought their way across the first stretch of 
wild water, taking advantage of every SAvirl and eddy, and 
eventually landed the canoe in a sheltered haven, between 
the divided Avaters of the chute. DoAvn went our heaA^y 
stone anchor, and out went our lines, btit, alack, Avith no 
results. It Avas a day off Avith the trout. 
The A'iew from our point of vantage was grand and in- 
spiring, the close proximitv to Virgin Falls adding an 
element of danger and giving a new zest to our wild 
life on the river. From where Ave launched our birch 
to the opposite bank, is only a hundred yards or so, but 
the current sets in so strong toward the falls tliat no 
guides on the Nepigon will risk their Ha'cs in an at- 
tempt to cut across. Camp life is apt to groAV Avearisome 
at times, to vary its monotony I occasionally dropped 
down the river' to Camp Minor, Victoria and Devil's 
Rapids. Oirr luck was indift'erent, but it was a welcome 
change to get away from the promiscuous crowd that 
SAvarmcd about Virgin Falls and haA^e a good lonely time 
by myself. Black flies arc quite tolerable up the river, 
but hornets are alwa3^s with you, particularly at meal 
times. The absence of niinnoAvs frequently tempts the 
angler to backslide,' and dally with the murderous spoon. 
To this complexion mttst you come at last, or something 
worse, unless you improve the shining hour, and lay in a 
good supply for future needs, and contrive some place for 
keeping them alive. A minnow bucket Avould help solve 
the question. For bass fishing I use a canvas bucket of 
my own invention. It can be carried in a large pocket. 
To illustrate the ill success of the fly among the larger 
trout, I Avill state the case of two old fly-fishers at Camp 
Minor. They had caught one good-sized trout and a 
limited number of small ones. One of their trout Avciglied 
exactly one pound; this little felloAV Avas kept, instead of 
being tossed back contemptuously where he came from. 
This sort of thing, helps depopulate the river of its 
smaller trout, and thins the ranks of the big ones. 
The knights of the fly-rod gaze longingly toward the 
north and dream of virgin waters. There is a A\'ealth 
of hunting and fishing hid away in the northern wilder- 
ness awaiting the advent of the hardy sportsman. Alas! 
many of the anglers that frequent the river are past 
the prime of life, others are physically incapable of Avith- 
standing the rigors that are inseparable from camping 
out in a wild country. The trout-haunted Albany River 
is too tough a proposition for this feeble band of anglers 
to entertain for a moment. The best advice I can give 
to this class of sportsmen is to camp near some of the 
pretty trout brooks that empty into Lake Nepigon. Here 
they will elude the crowd and find rest for their souls. 
This mighty feeder of the river is about 70 miles long 
by 50 Avide ; its broad bosom is studded Avith beautiful isl- 
ands,many of the larger ones abound in white birch, and 
are the favorite resort of the Indian canoe maker. The 
birches on the lake are seldom found large enough for 
one of those immense canoes, some of them capable of 
floating three tons or more. The material comes out of 
the far aAvay northern Avoods, the lighter models are most- 
ly in vogue; many of them are beautiful specimens of 
the canoemaker's art. Here I spent many a happy hour 
with my merrj^ men, cruising in and out among its lovely 
isles, and camping on the shore of this half-breed's para- 
dise. The lake is full of fish; the wilderness abounds 
with game; Avhat more could they desire. The smoke from 
their camp-fires that ascended from the islands seemed to 
breathe a spirit of content and happiness. More than 
once Indian girls glided across our path, the soft dip of 
their paddles blending in harmony wnth their youthful 
voices, as they accompanied us, laughing and chatting Avith 
the guides. These dusky maids were the embodiment of 
woodland grace and comeliness. As Ave drew near one 
of the group of islands, the clamorous yelps of the 
huskies rent the air, our approach Avas viewed by the 
canoemaker and his Avild brood Avith stolid curiosity that 
Avas quickly folloAved by smiles and good-natured badi- 
nage, as they recognized their half-breed friends. These 
wild encampments, with their primitive people, remind us 
of the ancient past, Avhen the red man roamed these Avilds 
happy at heart and free. No more does the Avild refrain 
of the A'oyageurs smite the air in unison Avith their pad- 
dles, their A^oices dying away to- a mournful cadence and 
blending Avith the far off sound of the rapids, the sighing 
of the breeze. That once mighty factor in the fur trade, 
the Hudson's Bay Co., still exi,sts, but shorn of much of its 
strength and influence. Speaking of fur, reminds me of 
a bear that shoAved up near a deserted Indian village on 
the lake shore. One da^ Avhile I Avas strolling about inspect- 
ing the interior of a hut, Joe Salt burst into the room, his 
face ablaze Avith excitement, shouting bear. Clutching an 
ax he started aff at a good pace doAAm the lake shore, 
closely folloAved by the rest of the outfit. We had not 
gone far before a dark object loomed up ahead. Approach- 
ing cautiously, Ave soon sighted a good-sized cub sitting 
up in the bushes, regaling himself Avith berries, seeming- 
ly oblivious of our presence. No friendly zephyrs wafted 
to his nostrils the telltale scent. His ears drank in no 
sound to warn him of our stealthy approach. It was a 
pretty piece of stalking. Our feet were shod with silence 
as nearer and nearer we came, until only a few yards 
separated us from the unsuspecting beast. At this stage 
of the game Joe drifted a trifle to the rear, I still con- 
tinued to advance, but had scarcely traversed a yard be- 
fore I attracted his attention ; his flight Avas accelerated by 
Joe's ax that sailed through the air, close in his Avake. I 
presently found out the reason Avhy Joe hung fire, he Avas 
fearful the old she would put in an appearance; fortu- 
nately for us she was foraging elsewhere. It is vouch- 
safed to but fcAV to inspect a bear at such close quarters 
in his native Avilds. 
It is surprising how little is known of the attractive 
features of this lovely lake. A native, Avho holds a re- 
sponsible position, assured me that no trout existed in 
any of its tributaries, save a small brook choked up 
Avith brush. I discovered in the course of my travels no 
less than three trottt streams, and got a line on a fine 
trout Avater that lies up in the northwest. It is not the 
Albany. I visited the little brook described by the half- 
breed, and found it practically free of obstructions in the 
onl}'^ part Avorth fishing. A level stretch extends about 
100 yards from the mouth, terminating- in a shallow pool 
above. The stream shrinks to a mere trickle, overgrown 
with saplings and littered with forest debris. I have gazed 
into the pellucid Avaters of this mimic pool and beheld' a 
sight that thrilled me with memories of bygone- days. 
Packed close together, their heads pointing up stream, 
their fins gently waA'ing, were as handsome a collection 
of speckled beauties as one would Avish to see. Many 
Avere good-sized specimens for sttch a little brook. A steep 
incline led doAvn on my side of the stream; the dense 
gfOAvth of saplings hindered nly niOA-ements as I slyly 
edged doAvn the bank, expecting CA'Cry moment to see 
them scatter in every direction. Finally I managed to se- 
cure an uncertain foothold on the edge, scarce a rod's 
length away from the dense throng of troUt, who paid 
little or no attention to my guarded movements. Scarcely 
expecting a rise, I flicked my fly among them. To my Sur- 
prise it found a ready admirer ; again and again I scored. 
Presently Joe appeared on the opposite bank and dropped 
his bait hook among them, and was soon busily engaged 
in yanking them out by the Avholesale; 'twas a veritable 
murder of the innocents. I soon grew wearied of sport 
that required little or ito skill, and returned to our camp 
by the Indian A'illage; all the cabins are kept securely 
locked during the owner's absence; nevertheless, Ave got 
many a glimpse of interiors abounding in rude comfort. 
We gained access to one room and started a fire in a 
badly cracked stove; the guides preferred the open fife 
for cooking, but the stoA-e and the rude protection the 
hut aft'orded Avere a mine of solid comfort Avhen rough 
Aveather set in. Potatoes and other vegetables grew in 
the little clearing. There seemed to be no trodden paths 
of any account. It must be a wild, desolate place in win- 
ter Avhen most of the huts are occupied by half-breed fam- 
ilies, nearly all the able-bodied Indians are off trapping 
in the frozen North. The immense Avilderness, north- 
Avest and east of Lake Nepigon is the happy hunting and 
trapping ground of the Ojibway. It is traversed in every 
direction by the Indian trapper in pursuit of fur. 
Poplar Lodge is another resort of the half-breeds. 
Here provisions can be procured, but it is best to bring in 
a good supply from the railroad. There is a creek that 
comes in on the northeast, Avhose upper Avaters have never 
been explored, unless by some wandering trapper. The 
resources of this wild stream seemed shrouded in mys- 
tery. It was Joe's idea to enter the creek and paddle 
up toward its headwaters. This suited me exactly, so 
one sunny afternoon our birch entered the mouth of the 
creek and glided up stream. The Avater near its entrance 
Avas quite deep Avith no perceptible current, but further 
up I hoped to strike swift Avater and fish. As we ad- 
vanced the stream narrowed, and the woods closed 
around us ; the banks were lined Avith that beauty of the 
woods, the Avhite birch, which made a dazzling contrast 
against the greens and grays that composed the sombre 
background. Charming effects of light and shade Avere 
strewn along our pathway. EA^ery turn in the stream 
disclosed enchanting views of woods and Avaters, bathed in 
a haze of mystery. We were afloat in a forest that ex~ 
tended Avithout a break to the Arctic Circle. No sign 
of life appeared upon this lonely stream, saA^e the tracks 
of Avild animals. Grimly suggestiA^e Avas the listening 
silence that perA^aded this haunt of the moose, caribou, 
and many beasts of prey. 
The Indians gazed about with Avondering eyes at 
the magnificent forests that hemmed us in on all sides 
and dreamed of happy himting grounds. This wild 
