156 
THE TROPICAL AGRICULTURIST. [September i, 1888. 
be heaped. Before the planting is taken in hand, all 
remaining timber not wanted Jying in the clearing, 
should be added to these heaps, the latter should be 
carefully covered with soil and fired. Any green stuff 
added to the heap would be all the better as it would 
check too rapid burning. Should the earth be burnt red 
like a brick it is almost worthle s. When the heap is 
burnt all charcoal and unconsumed wood must be 
raked or sifted out, and the heap left to cool. 
Planting. — The cltaring now being ready to receive 
the plant?, directly the rains have well set in this work 
should begin. The cuttings should be carefully taken 
from the nursery and carried to the field in covered 
baskets. Never take too many cuttings at a time. 
Each man should have a mamoHe and from 15 to 20 
plants. He begins by opening up the ridge down the 
centre of the hole and from the post, to a depth of 9 
inches or so and at a slope, iu this the cutting 
is placed, roots downwards with the head (which by 
now should have from 2 to 3 shoo s growing) well out 
of the ground and resting against the temporary post. 
The plant should be caret inly covered, the soil being 
heaped as originally, i nd immediately and thoroughly 
shaded, too much of the latter being preferable to too 
little. 
Application of Burnt Earth (the first). — Directly the 
plants have well stai ted, about 40 lb. of burnt earth 
should be applied to each vine. In applying it should 
be put on the surface (the soil having previously been 
slightly loosened) and aoout 0 inches from the post. 
Tying. — The shoots which grow from the fork, formed 
by the branch and stem, should be trained straight up 
the post. In no case would I allow more than two 
shoots to grow. The e as they grow should be tied at 
every joint, but not too tight, and the material used 
for tying should be flat, Some allow all the branches 
to remain on until the vine is "let down." I advise that, 
with the exception of 4 or 5 branches at the top of each 
vine, the others should be cut off during the tying pro- 
cess. Care should be taken that, if possible, the three 
upper branches should have no barren joint between 
them. My reason for cutting off the branches during 
growth is that the wound has time to heal, and no risk 
is run ot the plant rotting at one of the lreshly cut 
joints when " let down," In tying, never tie any of the 
branches, but merely ihe stem, and below each joint. 
Permanent Posts. — Splitting of permanent posts 
should commence directly after planting, as this is the 
slowest, hardest, and most expensive work of all. The 
posts should not exceed 13 feet in length, and should 
not be less than b' inches in diameter. The hardest 
and best timbers should only be used. At the end will 
be found a list of timbers suitable for this purpose. 
For the work, each man will require au axe, a wedge- 
shaped axe, measuring about 12" x 3" x 2J", and two 
iron wedges measuring about 18" x 3" x 3", and a chisel 
24" by 2 '. Unless used immediately, split posts should 
belaid flat on a raised scaffolding until required. This 
will keep white ants off. One good man will cut up and 
split, on an average, teu posts a day. 
Letting Down. — When the vines have reached the top 
of the temporary post, they should be taken off and 
buried, otherwise called "let down," This requires 
great care, and is done as follows : — The man begins 
first by removing with his mamotie all sand, stones 
and rubbish within a radius of two ftet of the post. 
He then with a blunt pointed stick digs back on both 
sides of the part of vine which is iu the ground (taking 
care not to break any of the large lateral roots) 
uutil it comes to the tnd of the original cutting, 
from which he will find from one to half-a-dozen ot 
what may be called taproots growing. On reaching 
these latter he stops digging, but releases all the other 
lateral roots by digging alorg them until he reaches 
the end. However, should any of the lateral roots go 
beyond the radius of two feet I would not follow them 
to the end. The object iu following the lateral roots 
is to find out in what direction they run, as otherwise 
they may be cut in two iu digging the hole for the 
vine or permanent post. On no account loosen the 
tap root or roots. Having laid bare the roots, the vine 
is next detached from the temporary poet and laid 
gftt on the ground, out of harms way. The post is then 
pulled out of the ground, and in its place a hole is 
dug large enough to take a permanent post, and 3Q 
inches deep. Tne permanent post is then firmly fixed 
in the hole. I have not tried it myself and do not 
kuow if others have ; but I do not think it would hurt 
the vine if the lower end of the post were to be tarred. 
Having fixed the post the ground should be dug up 
and the soil pmverised within a circular area of two 
feet radius from the post, and to the depth of one 
loot, leaving a space of 4 to 6 inches directly round 
the post untouched. All bits of wood and rubbish 
must be carefully removed. The hole, or more properly 
trench, thus cut must be at the same level as the 
end of the original cutting from which the tap root 
starts, and this level must be carried all round. The 
vine is then laid, roots down, in a circle in the hole, 
and about 15 inches from the post, and the end where 
the branches are, must be tied to the post, care being 
taken that the fork of the lowest branch be not 
buried. Should there be a double vine, the odd one 
is carried away from the trench, and the head fixed on 
to a post placed slantingly in the ground, a stick beiDg 
placed to mark where the two vines join. The vine or 
vines are now covered iu, the soil being gently 
pressed down with the hands, and the space levelled. 
A hollow should not be left as water will collect in it, 
stagnate and rot the vine. Should any portion of the 
vine be damaged in letting down, that portion should 
not be covered, but left exposed uutil hardened, when 
it may be covered like the other portion. The portion 
of the vine above ground should be tied below tveiy 
joint. The odd vine when well started can be cut oft 
from the main stem and used as a supply which can 
be let down on a permanent post direct, thus saving at 
least six months. This latter I advice being done only 
in wet weather, and the supply thus put down must at 
once be thoroughly shaded, the shade not to be removed 
until the vine has got a good start, and eveu then the 
removal being only gradually effected. The other work 
can be done in almost any weather. 
Application of Bar at Earth (the second.) — While the 
work of letting down is proceeding, men should be 
put on to make burnt earth. I advise it beiugjmade 
in jungle this time, as from the mould being added 
it is richer. As each vine is let down, about SO lb. of 
burnt earth should be applied on the surface, and all 
round the vine, and about six inches away lroin the 
post, the soil being first gently loosened. 
Pruning, lopping, Tying, —The vine having been let 
down, it should be allowed to grow about three feet 
up the pest having been tied at each joint as it as- 
cended. It should then be cut down to above the 
third or fourth branch, thus leaving three or four 
forks, and the cuttings either sold, should there be a 
sale for them, or put into the nursery for supplies or 
extension of cultivation. If cuttings are not wanted 
for supplies, sale or extension of cultivation, the vine 
can be topped above the third or fourth branch 
directly it is let down. From these forks either two. 
three or four shoots will be thrown out, m some cases, 
however, there may be only one. In the latter case, 
let the shoot grow to a foot or so, and again cut it 
down, when it is certain to throw out two or three 
other shoots. These shoots should be trained up the 
post on three sides, or if there be only two shoots, on 
two sides equidistant from each other. The material 
used for tying should be passed over the three shoots, 
provided of course they are all equal in growth and 
should be tied below the joints. Each shoot, as it 
grows, will throw out branches alternately. Should how. 
ever any of the shoots fail to do so, it should be immedi- 
ately topped below the barren joint, provided cuttings 
are not required. In the latter case, allow the vine to 
grow to about two feet, and then top it below the barnu 
joint. If cuttings are required, allow the vine to grow 
up to about feet, then cut it down to three feet, but 
it not wanted it can be topped when it reaches the 
height of three feet. The object in stopping the growth 
is to force the sap back, to allow tne viue to spread out, 
and to strengthen it generally, as otherwise it will grow 
up long and scraggy. Attention to this operation will 
make a difference of at least 50 per cent in the crop. 
During its growth the viue will be constantly throwiDg 
