54o 
THE TROPICAL 
AGRICULTURIST. [December i, 1881, 
be resorted to in the case of cherries, apples, pears, 
and such other fruits as bear upon spurs, whilst peaches 
should not only be closely pruned, but should have their 
blossoms thinned by hand. The pruning of fruit spurs 
is a practice to which amateur penologists are, not 
unnaturally, inclined to object. The desire to have heavy 
crops is, perhaps, not confined to growers of that class, 
but the more experienced growers for market have learned 
to aim at the production of fine fruit, and, to that 
intent, to avoid heavy yields of small samples ; this they 
do partly by spur-pruning and partly by early-thinning 
after the crop is set. The powers of the tree are not 
so severely taxed in producing the fleshy portion of the 
fruit as in forming the seed. The fleshy envelope of 
the peach, for example, is a mere mass of water ; if 
the tree be well supplied with moisture, the weight of 
crop may be doubled or even trebled without injury to 
the tree, as the number of seeds would be no greater 
than before ; the flesh only would be increased in weight. 
It is, therefore, expedient to thin off most of the sur- 
plus peaches before stoning takes place, leaving only a 
small margin for the final thinning. 
The work of disbudding is undertaken with the object 
(1) of conserving the growing powers of the tree, and 
(2) of giving such a direction those powers as will improve 
the constitutional vigour of the branches that are in- 
tended to form part of its permanent structure. When 
the young shoots, or the more forward ones, are push- 
ing for wood, a selection should be made by the grower, 
who should rub off with his finger and thumb the more 
forward of the shoots that will not be required. A 
week or ten days later a second disbudding may take 
place, and at a like interval the final touch may be 
given. By adopting this plan many wounds that would 
otherwise be made at the winter pruning will be saved, 
and the liability to gumming be lessened. There should 
be few shoots requiring entire removal in the winter, 
but the remainder will need the proper shortening. The 
wood not having been crowded, as it is when disbudding 
is not practised, is well ripened and healthy ; the foliage 
is large, strong, and well developed; the fruit, too, if 
the crop be not too heavy, is fine, highly-coloured, and 
well-flavoiu-ed. Thus, both thinning and disbudding may 
be regarded as essential to the successful cultivation of 
the peach and the nectarine in this country. 
Disbudding is even more essential in the case of vines. 
Whatever system of pruning and training is adopted, a 
number of young shoots, whose presence would be in- 
jurious, are sure to appear on both the old wood and 
on the new. In disbudding vines there can be no diffi- 
culty, nor need the work be partially done, as we have 
recommended in the case of peaches. Every shoot that 
is not required either to form part of the vine or to 
carry a bunch of fruit during the current season may 
be rubbed off at once. Under those two heads may be 
ranked every shoot that springs. A weak one may some- 
times be left as the source of a stronger one the next 
year, or to fill a vacancy on a trellis ; such a shoot 
would be a wood shoot proper. Vine shoots should not 
be crowded, but each branch should have abundance of 
space to develope its leaves; then the wood will be 
strong, well ripened, and if the soil be right, the vine 
will retain health. Mildew will, however, be liable to 
occur under certain conditions of soil and weather, 
against which provision cannot always be made. As in 
the case of rust in wheat, the visitation cannot always 
be guarded against ; indeed, the development of mildew 
on vines may be said to depend chiefly upon atmospheric 
conditions. 
VEGETABLES FOR THE TROPICS. 
(From Sutton's Tropical Garden Guide.) 
(Continued from page 471.; 
1 : Pumpkin (Cucwbita gwrgera and C. Pepo). 
] hi • liHivation of the Gourd is not only interesting 
but profitable. Sow about the middle of the rams on 
a heap of well-rotted manure, previously covered with 
good soil. Pick off the first flowers to allow the plant 
to gain strength. Water plentifully, and place dry litter 
under the fruit ; and shade the plants carefully. ' 
Herbs. 
These form an important item in domestic economy, 
and can be easily cultivated in good ordinary garden 
soil kept moderately moist. The cultivation is the same 
as for Parsley. 
Knol Kohl (Brassiea Caulo-rapa ). 
This is a very valuable vegetable, and requires but 
little attention. Cultivate as for Cabbage. The roots 
should be ready six weeks or two months from the 
time of sowing. 
Leek (Allium Porrui/i). 
Leek should be sown earlier than Onion, as it is 
rather longer coming to maturity, and, as it should 
always be transplanted, it is well to give as long a 
time for growth as possible. When ready for trans- 
planting, well water the soil, so as to allow the re- 
moval of the plants without the loss of the fibrous 
roots. Plant out in rows 1 foot apart by 6 inches in 
the rows from plant to plant. Earth up from time to 
time to blanch the root, and water liberally. 
Lettuce (Latuca sativa). 
Of Lettuces there are two classes, Cos and Cabbage, 
and both are equally useful. The seed grows but 
slowly, and is so subject to the depredations of ants, 
that it is well to sow in pans and isolate them by 
placing them upon an empty flower-pot standing in 
another larger pan full of water. The soil should be 
very light and friable. Plant out the seedlings, as soon 
as they have made their second pair of leaves, in light, 
rich soil. Succession crops may be grown almost all 
the year round. 
Melon (Cucumit Mclo). 
No fruit better deserves cultivation in tropical climates 
than the Melon. Sow middle of March in the spot 
where it is to remain, as it cannot bear transplanting. 
Dig a trench 14 to 16 inches deep, and 2 feet wide, 
and see that the soil is good and rich. Sow a double 
row of seeds in each trench. When the plants are a 
foot high, train along the top of the trench, and let 
the roots only come into close contact with water. 
Mustabd (Sina/pis alba and S. nigra). 
This requires so little cidtivation, that directions are 
scarcely necessary. Sow at intervals, for salad, the 
whole of the cold season. The seed germinates in 
two days. 
Maize. — Indian Coen (Zea). 
The unripe heads of Indian Com, when cooked, are 
very delicious : boil in milk, afterwards roast and eat 
with pepper, salt, and butter. Sow the beginning of 
rains in rows 1 foot apart, and the seed 8 inches 
apart in the rows. 
Onion {Allium Cepa). 
There are two principal classes of Onion. First, 
the English varieties, which grow to a small size only, 
but are excellent for then- keeping qualities ; and 
secondly, the Italian varieties, to be used especially for 
early crops, and which grow usually to a veiy great 
size. Of the English varieties we recommend Improved 
Reading, James's Keeping, and Bedfordshire Champion. 
Of the Italian Onions the best are Giant Rocca, White 
Giant Tripoli, The Queen, &c. The middle of October 
is the best time for sowing, and this may be done either 
in drills or by sowing broadcast. In either case the 
young plants should be thinned out when well established, 
leaving them about 6 inches apart. A still better plan 
is to sow in seed pans and transplant, as then the seed 
is protected to a great extent from the ravages of ants 
and other insects. During early growth water freely, 
but just before the commencement of the hot season 
