The Successful Rhododendron Bed 
BY 
Harlan P. Kelsey, Salem, Mass. 
Owner, Boxford Nursery, East Boxford, Massachusetts 
Highlands Nursery, Pineola, North Carolina 
" Kelsey 's Hardy American Plants'* 
How to Grow Rhododendrons Successfully 
Simple Rules Which Will Bring Pleasing and Lasting 
Results If Carefully Followed 
The highest ambition of the plant-lover is to have a successful bed of Rhododendrons together 
vpith other ericacea* and flowering plants that naturally go with them. How few succeed is well 
known. Many, discouraged by the imagined or heard-of difficulties, never even make the attempt; 
yet, under average conditions, success is as simple and sure as with ordinary shrubs. It is a ques- 
tion of doing the right thing before, during and after planting. 
Nature Knows Best. Rhododendrons — and I include under this term Azaleas, Kalmias, 
(Mt. Laurel) Leucothocs, Blueberries and other ericaceous genera and similar native (and exotic) 
plants— grow naturally in shady, damp situations, being surface feeders, with fine, hair-like rootlets. 
Plainly therefore, dry, hard groimd or drought checks growth or kills outright; nature provides 
against this by supplying a mulch of leaves the year round; few gardeners have learned this lesson. 
First Excavate the Bed, unless conditions are already favorable. A deep porous soil prevents 
drought; excavate 2 to 3 feet or more, and see that in clay soils good drainage is provided, so that 
water will not stagnate in the bottom and make "sour ground." 
Material for the Bed. Rhododendrons live largely on vegetable mold and humus, presumably 
through the medium of a mycelium, which increases rapidly under suitable conditions; therefore fill 
in the excavati'>n with woods or leaf mold, good loam, rotted field-sods and a third in bulk of swamp 
muck or pulverized peat; while filling in this mixture one-tenth of sharp sand, or even mote, should 
be added; if any manure is used, it must in every case be well rotted and practically reduced to 
humus. The center of the bed or plantation may be raised 6 to 12 inches above surrounding 
groimd, after allowing for natural settling. 
Planting. Plant the same depth as before (shown by earth line, or "collar" on stem) and 
firmly press soil around roots with the foot, but don't pack the earth too solid — Rhododendrons are 
not telegraph poles. "Fillers," including Lilies and other bulbs and smaller ground-covering 
species, should be planted after the larger plants are all in and properly spaced. Then soak the 
ground and apply the mulching. 
The Great Secret. Mulch, and yet mulch again, all the year round. This is the great 
Rhododendron secret. As soon as planted, cover the entire surface of the ground with a vegetable 
mulching — preferably hard wood leaves — to the depth of several inches when reasonably well 
packed. Never remove this mulching, b\it let it remain the year round, and every fall add a new 
layer of similar depth. A foot of leaves in the fall means but a half-inch or so of humus the 
coming season — the future food of the Rhododendrons or Azaleas. A thin dressing of loam and 
well-rotted manure may be used to hold down the fresh leaves as an aid to decay. The leaves keep 
the surface cool in summer and warm in winter. This is the great secret of Rhododendron- 
growing. 
August and September are the most successful months for planting Rhododendrons, 
Kalmias, Azaleas, Leucothoes, etc., and specimen conifers or cone bearing evergreens. 
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