THE SUCCESSFUL RHODODENDRON BED 
Hy Marian P. Kelsey 
This incliKlcs Rhododciulions, K;ilmias, Azaleas, Lcufiolhoes, Bliicl)(Trics and other 
cricaceous geni-ia, and similar native and oxotif plants and often such "fillers" as t'erns. 
Lilies, etc' most of whieli delii;ht in aeid soil conditions, and which are usually grouped 
together to make what is termed llie "Rhododendron Bed." 
This class of plants is most at home in somewhat shady and damp situations, and in 
a porous soil supplvinj^ plcntv of luimus and always showing more or less acid reaction. 
Limestone (nlkalirw) soils miisl be avoided, as a majority of cricaceous plants (Rhododen- 
drons Azaleas, liluehenies. etc.) arc rarely if ever found growing naturally under such 
soil conditions. Sandy loam is favorable, but in all cases continuous supply of humus 
should be provided. 
Mulehiiis. This means lhal the Rhododendron bed should have annually a heavy 
mulch of hardwood leaves, which is left on (he year round to decay. Mulching also keeps 
the ground cool in summer and warm in winter and protects the fine feeding rootlets of 
the "planls. Removiiui the nndchinr/ in sprinf/ lo make the beds "look heller" is one of the 
greatest eauses of non-siieeess in (iroiuimj Rhododendrons and similar planls. A'o expert 
gardener would ever think of so doing. 
Preparation of Bed. Unless conditions are naturally favorable, excaviite 2 to 3 
feet and fill with woods mold, "Kalmia i)eal," good loam, rotted lield-sods, and perhaps a 
third in bulk of swamp muck or peat, or similar soils. Make a tenth part of the mixture 
sharp sand especially where the soil is too clayey. The center of the bed or plantation 
may be raised (i to 12 inches above surrounding ground, after allowing for natural settling. 
Planting. Plant the same depth as before (shown by earth line, or "collar" on stem) 
and firmlv press soil around roots with the foot, but don't pack the earth too solid — 
Rhododendrons are not telegraph i)oles. "I-'illcrs," including Lilies and other bulbs and 
smaller ground-covering species, should be planted after the larger planls are all in and 
properly spaced. Then soak the ground and apply the mulching. 
Winter Proteetion. If convenient, i)rotect them with pine or other evergreen 
boughs iiarlicularlv where exposed to the sun and wind; yet Rhododciulrons rarely suffer 
in the latitude of Boston or Buffalo, if proi)erly planted and mulched. In the latitude of 
Ottawa and Quebec, Canada, a board fencing may be placed around the edge of the bed 
and much heavier lemporarv mulching of straw, etc., filled in almost or quite to the tops 
of the plants It is rarelv n'ecessarv to build a board cover, except on southern exposures 
to prevent sunburn, or \vith tender varieties not suitable for general planting, and even 
then evergreen boughs arc preferable. Good ventilation must be provided. 
Selectinfr the Location. For the Rhododendron bed, a northern exposure is 
preferable especiallv in low elevation in the .South, or elsewhere where freezing and 
thawing is' quite coniinual. .\ direct winter sun on the frozen leaves of any broadleaf 
evergreen oflen kills outright or spoils the foliage. The north side of the buildmg, wall, 
woods or hill is always preferable, and windswept locations should be avoided, unless 
proper measures are taken lo check the heavy winds. 
In I-imestone Soils. Excavation is imperative and fresh soil showing acid reaction 
substituted. This can be successfullv done. .V striking example is shown in Highland 
Park Rochester. New York, where one of the most beautiful Rhododendron and Azalea 
beds in America has been constructed and planted in a location originally of a heavy lime- 
stone natme. Blueberry culture is not a success in limestone soils. 
Enemies of the Rhododendron. Rhododendrons, Kalmias and similar plants 
have few enemies. The onlv serious one I know is the Lace-wing Fly, which is native 
from New England throughout the .Mleghanies, and is found on Kalmia angustifolia. 
Rhododendron maximum,' Kalmia lalifolia and occasionally on almost any broadleaf 
evergreen or deciduous tree or shrub. This pest appears in early spring on the under 
side of the leaves and gets its sustenance by sucking the sap. The leaves turn brown, 
giving the i)lant a ragged, unkempt ai)pearance. It is easily disjjosed of by spraying the 
under side of the leaves, using a verv fine nozzle, with an emulsion of ten gallons of whale- 
oil soap to one hundred gallons of water. While the Lace-wing Fly is more at home on 
Rhododendron maximuni, it does not hesitate to attack all other species to a greater or 
less extent. Plants in the shade are rarely infested to any great degree. 
The Use of "Fillers." For the best landscape elTects, as well as providing a con- 
tinual succession of bloom throughout the season, and actually protecting the Rhododen- 
drons and supplving "feathered" edge to the ground, a large variety of shrubs and planls 
may be employed with the finest results. In fad, the planting of Rhododendrons without 
the use of "filler" or "edging" plants mav give harsh, formal elTects, which arc neither 
desirable nor natural in aiiv wav. In the' use of "fillers" great care must be taken as lo 
