SOUTH 
Cutting steps with the adze, we moved in a lateral direction 
round the base of a dolomite, wliich blocked our view to the 
north. The same precipice confronted us. Away to the north- 
east there appeared to be a snow-slope that might give a path 
to the lower country, and so we retraced our steps down the 
long slope that had taken us three hours to clhnb. We were 
at the bottom in an hour. AVe were now feeling the strain of 
. the unaccustomed marching. We had done little walking since 
January and our muscles were out of tune. Skirting the base 
of the mountain above us. we came to a gigantic bergschrund, 
a mile and a half long and 1000 ft. deep. This tremendous gully, 
cut in the snow and ice by the fierce winds blowing round the 
mountain, was semicircular in form, and it ended in a gentle 
incline. We passed tlirough it, under the towering precipice 
of ice, and at the far end we had another meal and a short rest. 
This was at 12.30 p.m. Half a pot of steaming Bovril ration 
warmed us up, and when we marched again ice-inclines at 
angles of 45 degrees did not look quite as formidable as before. 
Once more we started for the crest. After another weary 
climb we reached the top. The snow lay thinly on blue ice 
at the ridge, and w^e had to cut steps over the last fifty yards. 
The same precipice lay below, and my eyes searched vainly for 
a way down. The hot sun had loosened the snow, which was 
now in a treacherous condition, and we had to pick our way 
carefully. Looking back, we could see that a fog was rolling 
up behind us and meeting in the valleys a fog that was coming 
up from the east. The creeping grey clouds were a plain 
warning that we must get down to lower levels before becoming 
enveloped. 
The ridge was studded with peaks, which prevented us 
getting a clear view either to the right or to the left. The 
situation in this respect seemed no better at other points 
within our reach, and I had to decide that our course lay back 
the way we had come. The afternoon was wearing on and 
the fog was rolling up ominously from the west. It was of the 
utmost importance for us to get down into the next valley 
before dark. We were now up 4500 ft. and the night tempera- 
ture at that elevation would be very low. AVe had no tent 
198 
