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Sup'jdemnit to the TrGpical Affricn'tfuHsl.'' [Nov. 1, 1900 
The pomej^i'iiiKite (tlie Pomum (jranatwm or 
grained apple of the Romans) belongs to the 
natural order Myrtaceae or the myrtle family. 
The fruit is made frequent mention of in the 
Songs of Solomon, iv. 3, 13; vi. 7, 11 ; vii. 12 
and viii. 2). 
The fact that it was a favourite fruit in past 
times is evidenced by the fact that models of 
the fruits were used to adorn the capitah of 
pillars (see 1 Kings vii. 18, 20, 42; 2 Kings 
XXV. 17; 2 Ciiron. iii. 16, and iv. 13; Jer. Hi. 
22), while the common pattern of embroidery 
work for the border of the high priests' blue 
robe and ephod consisted of pomegranates with 
golden bells between them. (See. E:cod. xxviii. 
83, 34; xxxix. 24-26.) 
Besides the use of the fruit for its refreshing 
pulpy seeds, various parts of the tree are used 
medicinally, es])ecial!y the root baric and rind of 
the fruit fur tape worm. The latter is also used 
for tanning the finer kinds of leather. 
MULCHING. 
Mulching is di ne with more than one object. 
It is done to protect the roots of plants from 
injury caused by freezing and thawing and to keep 
the soil at as even a temperature as possible, 
and, secondly, it is carried on in hot weather 
to prevent evaporation of moisture from the 
surface of the soil. 
All fruit trees, says the Fruit Groiver, in an 
interesting article on Atulches and Mulching, 
are the better if properly mulched, as also newly- 
transplanted trees. Old straw and forest leaves 
will do for the purpose, or any coarse litter 
' may be used, even to fresh straw and coarse 
manure, and if nothing else is available, fine soil or 
ashes can be applied. In the case of small crops 
grown over any extent, the whole surface of the 
soil should be protected, while in the case of 
trees a circle of at least 3 feet in diameter around 
the stem should on an average be covered — the 
size of the tree of course determining the 
extent of the mulching. In «ome soils mulching 
is of greater benefit than others, but as a rule 
it will be found profitable to mulch all small 
trees and newly-transplanted fruit trees. 
But if mulching is not properly performed 
it might also do harm, and we would, therefore, 
quote the following passage from the Fruit Groicer 
for the benefit of our renders, in order that 
errors might be avoided in carrying out this very 
useful operation of practical agriculture : — 
It is as well to point out one or two things 
with regard to the operation of mulching in dry 
weather, as there is no doubt that its influence and 
efficiency are greatly misunderstood. The one 
great reason why mulches are applied in the 
summer months of the year is to prevent evapor- 
ation of moisture, as it is taken for granted pret ty 
generally that in hot spells the damp nature of the 
surface soil is changed to dryness by the action of 
the sun. It is argued, as a rule, th",t tlie sun dties 
out the top layer of earth, and as rhe result the 
growing crops suffer. Therefore, these reasoners 
continue, we must keep the soil damp by the use 
of a damp or moisture-laden material, such as 
stable manure, and it is piled on thickly around 
the stems and over the roots of fruit trees and 
bushes. Ndw, the argument does not meet our 
views, and we .^hail show that it is not the damp 
material that is needed, for a layer of any dry 
material will secure the desired end in a far more 
efficient manner. Have you not noticed that 
when the old stable manure mulch has been applied 
close up to the stems of the ordiiiury pea plan's ia 
rows, that mildew generally results from the 
application ? "We have again and again, and there 
can be no doubt that the hot, moist condition 
brought about by its use at the time referred to is 
generally attended with these results. This being 
so, the application must he taken to be a wrong 
one. Vt e remember testing this method once on 
twice with sweet peas, treated as ordinary garden 
peas. We read that "the flowering period of 
sweet peas will be considerably prolonged by the 
application of a thick mulch of stable manure 
during the hot weather," and we followed out this 
suggestion just to prove that it was unsound. 
Within a few days of tlie mulch being given we 
found the mildew running up the stems, and it 
was wor.-e where the manure rested against them, 
Peas of any kind are not likely to be improved by 
mildew, however slight the attack may be. Now 
what we want to point out is that if the grower 
wants to prevent evaporation, he can do so by 
using a supply of dry ashes of any kind, and that 
dampness in this respect is not a consideration. 
By the use of a dry material we not only prevent 
evaporation, but do so in a manner which pjrevents 
any injury whatever to the plants or trees treated. 
The layer of dry material coming, as it will when 
distributed, between the air and the earth prevents 
evaporation and is a clean and natural process 
compared to the use of manure as some advise. It 
is an error to suppose that wet damp grass, 
manure, cut vegetable growth, or wet leaves, are 
better than a dry material for retarding moisture 
evaporation from the soil. If it is put to the test 
it will be seen that the dry material is the best 
and most effective of all, mid though at first sight 
it appears strange to argue thus, yet it is true. A 
dry mulch will do wonders in this respect, and 
the more it is used in hot spells the better, 
particularly when it replaces the old stable 
manure mulch. 
TOMATOES. 
The following notes are culled from an article 
on " The Tomato and its Culture " in Garden and 
Field :— 
Raising Plants. — Procure a small shallow box, 
such as a blacking box, or the top four inches 
of a kerosene tin, or half a kerosene tin cut 
on the flat, or a six inch flower pot, according 
to the number of plants you want to raise. If 
the box be four inches deep put quite one inch 
of drainage. Broken brick, gravel or sifted cin- 
ders do well. Over these put a thin layer of 
coconut fibre, fine dry grass, or such material, 
and fill the box with a mixture consisting half 
and half of rotten leaves and sand, or half sand, 
quarter old rotted cowdung and quarter fine 
free soil. Moisten this thoroughly without 
