Jan. 1, 1901.1 
THE TROPICAL 
AGRICULTURIST. 
449 
buried. At the time of my visit it was noticed that 
lirge numbers of the caterpillars were dying, attacked 
by some fungal disease that had an extraordinarily 
rapid action. Apparently healthy specimens collected 
that morning were dead and covered with f angus 
ten hours later. 
The fact that this pest makes its first appearance, 
each year, on full-growu Grevillea trees will make 
it difficult to stamp it out at its commencement 
without sacrificing such trees. The spread of the 
pest is not due to an actual migration of the cater- 
pillarji, but to the fact that the moths move onwards 
and lay their eggs where there is food for the future 
larvse. Between the months of February and July, 
the period when the pest is usually prevalent, there 
have probably been three or four distinct generations. 
It has not yet been determined what becomes of the 
insects during the rest of the year. This is a point 
that requires investigation. It is possible that a 
few iudividnals carry on the breed. Or it is again 
possible that eggs laid in July and August may re- 
main dormant until the following February. 
There are several other caterpillars that attack 
and do a certain amount of injury to the tea plant, e.(j: — 
The Tea Borer, Zcuzera coffece, Nietuer 
The Cutworm, Agrotis siijf'usa, Hubuer. 
The Yellow Tussock. Dasychira, horsfieldi, Saund. 
The Small Tussock, Lrgyia poslica. Walker. 
The Atlas Moth, Aitacus, atlas. Linn. 
The Lobster Caterpillar, Stauroptis alterrms Wal. 
But the present circular deals more particularly 
with those that have been found to occur in such 
numbers as to seriously affect the crop. 
In conclusion, I would again emphasize the import- 
ance of being beforehand with the caterpillars. 
Stamp out the earlier broods before they have time 
to breed and to extend their area of operation ; pluck 
off all folded and twisted leaves as regularly as 
" banji " is now removed ; and encourage coolies and 
kanganies to observe and report the earliest appearance 
of any caterpillars on the tea. Specimens of every 
caterpillar pest should be sent in to the Entomolo- 
gical Department for identification. 
E. Ernest Gbebn, 
Govercmeut Entomologist. 
Eoyal Botanic Gardens, 
Peradeuiya, August 1.5, I'JOO. 
^ _ 
TRANSPLANTING LARGE MANGO-TREES. 
Most men have their own particular way of removing 
and replanting trees of large dimensions, but to 
those who have not essayed the task this appears 
a big job to tackle. It is for such persons these 
remarks are intended. The writer makes no preten- 
sions to a special knowledge of the subject, but 
having successfully removed and replanted a number 
of large-sized mango-trees, the method adopted \a 
here given for what it is worth. 
Of course, there is a great deal to be taken into 
consideration ta insure success, especially if it be 
intended that the tree shall retain its foliage. If 
this is not a consideration, the top may be cut back, 
and the labour of removing considerably lessened ; 
and thus the risk of losing the tree reduced to a 
minimum. If the tree is taken from a warm friable 
so:I, and from a secluded position, and replanted 
in a position having all these favourable conditions 
reversed, success cannot be expected. If the soil is 
the only thing that is likely to militate against 
success, the unsuitable soil may be taken out and 
good soil be substituted for the reception of the 
tree. If the tree is removed from where it enjojed 
all the moisture it required, and is placed in a dry 
position, and then neglected, total or partial failure 
will result. If the last condition is reversed, success 
is certain. Granted that these, and many other 
little matters which generally appeal to common 
reason, are carefully thought out beforehand, the 
work, instead of being a trouble, will proceed with 
a fascinating pleasure, and, having sircceeded, the 
man is justly proud of his acooraplishment. 
A strong box, measuring 30 iuches square by 20 
inches deep inside measurement, will do for trees 
having a height of from 8 to 12 feet and a corres- 
ponding diameter measure through the top ; lO-inch 
by 1-inch pine boards will do for the sides and ends. 
The ends of the box will be exactly 30 inches long; 
the sides will measure just 38 inches long, iTou 
will want eight pieces of 3 x 2 hardwood, 20 inches 
long ; two for each corner. The ends of the box 
must be nailed on to the edge of the hardwood 
pieces; the sides to the hardwood on their flat, and 
all flush with the pine. You will observe the ends 
of the box are nailed to the hardwood on their edges; 
this brings the thickness to 4 inches at each end, 
so that, when the ends are put in, this takes up 
the 8 inches allowed on the sides, making inside 
measure 30 inches square, and outside 38 inches by 
32 iuches, with tbe four corners bolted together oa 
the outside. Having made the sides and ends, stand 
the two sides up — tbe hardwood outside — and put 
in the ends, hardwood outside. This brings all the 
hardwood pieces flat together, with I inch thickness 
of pine between them. Now cramp the corners to- 
gether on an even floor, and bore |--holes 5 inches 
from the top and 5 inches from the bottom, and 
bolt together ; 54 inches by §-inch bolts will do 
nicely. When you are nailing the pine to the hard- 
wood, avoid driving nails where the bolt-holes will 
be, and be sure not to split the hardwood with the 
nails. Now you have a box without top or bottom 
as yet. These will be mentioned liter on. You need 
not bolt one end in, as this will have to be done 
after it is placed around the tree to hi taken up. 
Houi the Tree is Taken up. — Place the three sides 
of the bsx round the tree, and bolt in the end. 
See that it is all tightly screwed up, and square it 
so that the trunk of the tree is in the middle. Now 
proceed to cut away the soil all round the outside 
of the box, and, as every 3 or 4 inches are removed, 
drive down the box with a wooden maul, striking 
on the hardwood corners. A little judgment will be 
necessary, as the sole object is to get a solid cube 
of unbroken soil compressed inside the box. Should 
you encounter stones that will be in the way of the 
box going down, they must be carefully taken out. 
As soon as you uncover a root, cut it clean through 
with li chisel and mallet, so that the bottom edge 
of the box does not grind on it as it goes down. 
It you sever the roots as soon as they are visible, 
and without removing any more soil, there is a firm 
bottom to cut on, and less injury will be done to 
the roots and cube inside the box. Continue 
cutting away the soil, and driving down the box till 
it is down level with the surface. (It tiie soil has 
been banked up around the tree, it should be removed 
and made level before the box is placed in position. 
Even then it may be found necessary to sink the 
box below the surface to get in all the side roots, 
but not to the detriment of the surface roots.) You 
may now nail on the cover, from which it will bo 
necessary to cut out two half-circles to fit the trunk 
in. Pack some grass or bagging tight between the 
edge of the boards and the trunk to act as a fender 
to prevent injury to the bark. Having put on the 
cover, you may excavate 1 foot deeper all round 
the box, giving yourself plenty of room and keeping 
the loose soil well out of your way. Now undermine 
the box on whichever side you intend to let the tree 
down (for the tree and box must come down ' n 
its side so that the bottom may be nailed on). While 
you are undermining the box, and before you atu mpt 
to lit down the tree, see that all the tap-roots are 
carefully cut through ; for if any are left uncut when 
the tree comes down, they will pull the cube partly 
through the bottom of the box. This precaution 
will prevent unnecessary forms of speech and much 
waste of time. 
It will be just as well to prop up the front of 
tbe cube to prevent the tree coming down nnex- 
