Aug. 1, 1902.J Supplement to the " Tropical Agriculturiit." 
143 
means numerous crevices will be formed which 
will promote the drainage of the laud and permit 
the roots of the plants penetrating and gaining 
access to tlie subsoil beneath. 
Every tree to be planted should be carefully 
examined for any indication of root galls, scale 
iusects, borers or fungoid growth, to ensure im- 
munity from which it should be dipped either 
in warm whale-oil soap suds or in kerosene 
emulsion for a couple of minutes in the case of 
insect pests, or in Bordeaux solution in the 
case of fungoid disease. 
Trees that have to be kept till required for 
planting should be put slantwise into a trench 
in moist well-draitied soil, and loose well-pulverized 
earth banked up round the roots nnd every part 
of the stem. Ihe trees should stand thus till 
required for planting. 
It happens that they are sometimes bark- 
bound, showing a leathery shrivelled bark. In 
that case they should be thoroughly drenched first 
and then covered up with moist loose earth or 
sand, stem and branches, for a, couple of days or 
so, when, unless, too far gone, the/ assume their 
healthy look again. 
Before planting in the hole make with a sharp 
knife a clean cut of any bruised root, and with a 
few shovelsful of earth raise the bottom of the 
hole so that the collar is level with the surface of the 
ground. The tendency hitherto has been to 
plant trees too deep, with the idea that in dry 
seasons there may be no lack of moisture. Collar 
rot, rotting of roots, stunted growth, are all due 
to this, and to the same cause must be attributed 
the loss of many fruit trees. Deep planting, in- 
sufficient pruning, deficient cultivation, neglect 
of pests all bring about failure. 
In planting note that with heavy soils trees 
should be planted a trifld; shallovi'er than usual 
and vice versa. 
In careless planting a deep narrow hole is 
sunk into the ground, the tree is let down 
with its roots twisted any how, and covered 
with soil, or, worst, of all, soil with stable 
m a'lure 'poured over them. If the ground is 
at all heavy the roots with difficulty penetrate 
through the wall of such a hole, the earth 
packed round the bark will prevent the 
bulk of the tree expanding, the bark will lose 
its elasticity and will set tight round the tree 
•which will either die of collar-rot or will 
always be stunted and live a miserable life. 
On the other hand too shallow plantiug 
results in the tree being blown do?vn or its 
roots affected by the heat of the sun which in 
dry weather will elfectually desiccatj them. 
Between the two extremes lies the right 
•way of setting a tree. 
If the weather be dry at the time of planting, 
it is advisable to pour a bucket of water around 
the stem to settle the earth well on the roots. 
Mulch the ground about the newly-planted 
trees with a light coating of stable manure or 
of straw. 
Manures are sometimes used at the Ume of 
planting for giving a good start to the trees, 
but avoid putting farmyard manure under the 
JOOts of the plants, as it would ia many oases 
attack iusects and favour the growth of para- 
sitic moulds that would be injurious to the 
tree. Whenever farmyard manure is used, it 
should be in the form of a mulch on the top 
of the soil as its benefits will then be two- 
fold : the plant food it contains will be 
washed from the surface down to where the 
roorts are established, and it will act as a 
screen to prevent evaporation of moisture and 
smother weeds round the trees. A couple 
handfuls of phosphates and potash manures 
mixed well with the earth round the roots 
prove of great value. 
On freshly-cleared ground it is an excellent 
plan to spread 6 or 7 lbs. of lime round the 
stakes marking the places for the trees. This will 
correct the sourness and stiffness of the soil and 
induce a healthy growth. 
An important operation that now remains to be 
performed is the cutting back, or shortening in, 
of the newly-planted tree, which would otherwise 
be checked in its growth and often perish. No 
matter how carefully a plant is lifted, many of the 
fine feeding- lootlets are com and bruised, and the 
feeding capacity of the tree is no longer in keep- 
ii!g with the amount of shoots it carries, and unless 
the superabundance of these is cut back and the 
balance re-established between the feeding and the 
breathing and evaporating organs of the plant, it 
will make a miserable struggle for existence and 
in many cases perish, 
♦ — 
THEEE CHENA CEOFS. 
[The following extract is from a lecture by 
Mv. J. M. Orpen, Administering Agricultural 
Department at Salisbury, Rhodesia, on "The 
Diet of Kative Labour," published in the Affvi- 
cultwal Journal of Cape Colony. The three 
chena crops referred to are Andvopogon sorghum 
(Karal-iringu), Eleusinecoracana (K\3.i&k\ia.a), and 
Penisetum typhoideum (Kambu).] 
Kaffir corn or great millet is known in 
Science as Ajidropogon sorghum. It is less used 
in Mashona land than some smaller grains 
presently to be mentioned. It may be used, 
as it is used by Kaffir? and Basutos, both boiled 
whole or after ridding it of the husk by 
stamping ; the meal is generally used boiled as 
porridge or sometimes in a much thicker tough 
mass ■vi'hich may be called bread ; or it is made 
into " leting," a fermented non-intoxicant or again 
into the intoxicating "Kaffir beer." The grain is 
much grown through a great part of Africa and 
Asia, and more or less in Europe and America. 
There is one other way of making a very 
light, easily digestible, nourishing food from 
Kafiir corn which I had better mention. It i3 
tie food which the Bosutos always use on long 
tramps. I have used it myself. They call it 
"dipabi." To make it, Kaffir corn is parched 
in a pot highly heated over a strong fire. The 
grains generally burst open with a jump nnd 
turn themselves more or less inside out. Colonists 
call this "springing," and they call such grain 
sprung grain, i.e., sprung Kafiir corn or sprung 
jqealies, lu America it i^ called *' popping 
