( 70 ) 
appearance of our village churches. There are 
stone-hewn coats of arms, tombs, &c. There are 
also many inhabitants with Dutch names. They 
are called "Bmgheis," but are descendants of 
mixed blood, and thus colored. Gradually all 
coloured persons have in Ceylon come to be known 
under the name of " Burghers." And, although 
often these colored pereons have studied at English 
high schools, they are treated by the English in 
Ceylon ss veiitable pariahs. No Englishman would 
"degrade" himself to have the slightest inter- 
course with them* The cultivation of rice does 
not appear to have brought to any high degree of 
develcjiment, and Ceylon is poor in bamboos, suit- 
able for use as building material. The people also 
are far from cleanly. One may say that the 
inhabitants to put it mildly, smell badly. f The 
men are of fairly handsome build, though somewhat 
effeminate : th> y wear a ccml) in their hair. The 
women are small in stature and ugly. They look 
as it tliey had little pleasure in their lives, and 
this is peiliaps the result of the polyandry prac- 
tised in Ceylon ; most of the women have seven or 
eight lawful hnsbnnJs as their portion. $ 
The little town of Kandy, regarding which the 
English mike so much, in fact somewhat disap- 
pointed Prof. Treub. Kandy owes its fame for tl 6 
Buddhist to the circumstarce, that in a Buddhist 
monastery there, a tooth of Buddha himself is pre- 
served. If one asks after this tooth, one obtains 
for money and good words only a sight of a eom- 
plicated 30I lection of caskets, in whicii Buddha's 
tooth is supposed to be enclosed. No one, how- 
ever, has ever yet had this relic of Buddha's tooth 
under his eyes. Even the King of Siam, who is 
also the r.cknowledged head of the Buddhist religon, 
was denied by the monks the sight of the tooth, to 
the King's manifest annoyance. § 
AFTER JUNGLE-FOWL IN CEYLON; 
"Some laise pfitvhes of niliu are ripe in my 
neighbourhood, and jung'.e-fowl consequently plen- 
tiful." The letter ended in an invitation and I leapt 
from I he depths of my teak chair to answer it at once. 
The' nillu " (stromhila.nthes), grows in the hill- 
forests of Ceylon, and flowers but once in seven 
years. Wn^ u the berries, which succeed the 
Tblossoni*, are ripe, they attract jungle-fowl and 
pigeons in such numbers that the sport to be had 
amongst them is excellent. My luck with jungle- 
fowl had hitherto been poor, and as it has never 
been tny wont to knowingly miss a good thing, I 
duly piesented myself at MacL's hospitable 
bungalow aimed with a gun, a boy, and a bag. 
What Mac. was pleased to describe as his neighbour- 
hood, however, turned out to be a lonely spot 
* This is too bad of Dr. Treub when he should 
have known of Judges of the Supreme Court and 
high Civil Sei vatits being of the class he refers to, 
with whom their brethern in the Service are 
geneiallyon nio.vt friendly terms; and also that 
many Baighers are pure or nearly pure Dutch 
descendants. — Ed. L.R. 
t A gross libel.— Ed. L.B, 
X Another big libel ; polyandry never prevailed 
among the lowcountry Sinhalese, and only to a 
limited extent among theKandyans and it is now 
dying out —Ed. L.B, 
§ Another great error: we have seen the tooth 
twice — once in 1875, when King Edward VII (then 
Prince of Wales) saw the tooth and every jewel in 
the temple. — Ed. L.B. 
miles away from anywhere, with neither food not 
shelter obtainable. I had therefore to send my boy. 
Gregories back for provisions and camp necessaries, 
and on the following day we sallied forth on foot, 
taking some estate coolies to carry our loads, 
build our hnt.«, and act as beaters when tiie time 
came. Having arrived and selected our site, we 
left the rest to our men, and strolled off to view 
our surroundings. And then du^ik was noon us. 
Far up on the mountain side, where the sun 
beats fiercely by day, but coolness comes with the 
evening, we stood and watched the quivering 
plains gradually grown dim in the failing light. 
A mist had alieady gatheud in the valley, and 
the stars suddenly flaming out, shed their pale 
light over endless billows of white fog whicli 
crept over the steaming low-country ff.r beneath 
us. Our camp was pitched by the edge of a preci- 
pice, and, near by, a tonent rushed and jo.stled, 
bending back the luxuiious tropical growth whicli 
sought to choke its path. Stopping on the verge, 
as if to gather strength, the waier leapt over the 
last rock and fell with a dull roar into the pool 
two hundred feet below ; and no other sound broke 
the stillness of the mountain jungle. But in camp 
all was merry enough. The ci>olies, having; built 
our huts, were hughing and jabbering, glad of a 
change in iheir weary routine ; and the ciackle of 
dry wood, and hiss of green, as the fires leapt into 
flame, all lent a cheerful tone to the scene. Two 
fowls were soon splutteiing over the bright flames, 
and the seltzer hissing soothingly in our glasses, 
the mere knowledge of its scarcity rendering it 
the more appreciated. And by nine we vere 
asleep. I may be forgiven for this long pieamble, 
but, to my mind, .«portis made sport by the colour 
of its sijtroundinE's. If it were not so, we would 
enjoy fishing in a cistern, or shooting the pigeons 
in Charing Cross Yard. 
It was scarcely dawn when I awoke to the 
crow of a jungle-cock. Closing my eyes for a 
ihoment, I revelled in anticipation. Then there 
was another crow, and yet another — but not from 
jungle-cock. Our poultry were awake, and no 
rest is left for man when the domestic cock be- 
gins to challenge his wild congener of the forest. 
There is something fascinating being awakened 
by the jungle-fowl, but the startling song of 
undcifed " natives," delighting as they do in a 
ditty with an oft-repeated chorus, is another 
thing. I arose, and after barking my shin against 
our only case of sellzer, emptied a chatty of 
water over the wakeful birds, in hones of damp- 
ing their musical ardour. But sleep had gone 
and nature was astir. The utter loneliness 
which pervades the mountain forests is less im- 
pressive in the early dawn than at any other 
time. The gaudy jungle-cock crows his loudest, 
the grey monkeys j-quabble in guttural voices, 
while the forests resound with the melancholy 
cooing of pigeons. I went over to Mac's ham- 
mock to find him fast asleep under his mos- 
quito curtain. His face was aggressively red, and 
reminded me of a steak in a meat-safe. A play- 
ful tap with the empty chatty where the contours 
of the hammock looked most pronounced, knocked 
all the sleep out of him, and in a few minutes 
we were splashing in the pool by the precipice 
edge. Then, as we sipped our tea, we watched 
the magic splendour of a sunrise in the Ceylon 
mountains, and while the valley was yet one 
deep cobalt shadow of eddying mist we set out 
for our shooting ground. The air was quite 
