360 
Supplement to the "7ropical Agriculturist.'^ [Nov. 1, 1901. 
kins, gourds, cucumbers, are useful, but deficient 
in nutriment. 
[For the benefit of our readers we append 
a list of the commoner leguminous food pro- 
ducts or "pulses," together with their popular 
names : — 
Dolichos bifiorus — Horse grnm or kollu. 
Canavalia ensiformis var, Virosa — Sword bean 
or awara 
Cicer arietinum — Chick pea, common gram or 
kadala. 
Cajanus indicus — Pigeon pea, dhall or paripoo. 
Arachis hypoffoea —Qronnd or earthnut or rata- 
kaju. 
panavalia ohtusifolia — Mudu awara. 
Phaseolus trilobus — Bin-me. 
Fhaseolus max — Green gram or mun-eto. 
Phaseolus radiatus—Bl&ck grnm or ulundu. 
Viffna cMh'aws— Nil- me and li-me. 
V^gna sinensis — Long bean or me-karal and 
wandaru-me. 
Dolichos lablab—'D&vahala. 
Glycine hispida—The soga bean. 
Phaseolus lunatus — Bonchi. 
Phaseolus vulgaris— Yrench or kidney bean, 
bonchi. 
Ltns esculenta — Lentil,^ — Ed. A.M.] 
HOW TO LAY OUT A MARKET GARDEN. 
The following hints given by Mr. H. W. Gorrie, 
Horticulturist, appearing in the Queensland 
Agricultural Gazette should prove ^useful to our 
readers who are amateur gardeners. The remarks 
of the writer apply equally well to Ceylon. 
For wind belts, however, there are many suitable 
trees locally available instead of tho.^e named, 
while horse labour is of course a thing unknown 
here; but all the same, the remarks as to the 
necessity of so plau'ing as to admit of working 
up the soil during the growth of the plants 
is one to be remembered. Mr. Gorrie's directions 
are particularly useful at this time when School 
Gardens are being established in the colony. 
THE SITE. 
In selecting the site of a garden there are 
four essential points to be considered— namely, 
water, soil, aspect, and shelter. Of course in 
growing garden stuff for sale there is also the 
question of convenience to rail and market to 
be taken into account. 
I have placed water first in my list of 
essentials, because to attain any degree of 
success in gardening a good water supply is an 
absolute necessity. As a rule, the best situation 
for a garden is on the bank of the creek, or 
near a lagoon or waterhole ; but if none 
of these are available then you had better sink 
a well in your garden, for water you must have. 
True there may be months and months during 
which no watering will be required ; but it 
is quite certain that sooner or later a dry spell 
will ccme, and then, if no water is to be had, 
you will probably lose the result of months of 
iabour, and perhaps, as in the case of valuable 
fruit trees, of years. 
Therefore, above all things, be certain that, 
whether you are going to plant twenty acres 
or only one, you will be able to command a 
sufficient supply of water in time of need. 
Now as to soil— 
THB SOIL. 
In the first place you may be assured that 
you cannot have soil too good for gardening ; 
but at the same time, if it is impossible to 
obtain very rich soil, a liberal and judicious 
use of manures will en.'ure the same results, 
although, of course, at some additional expense. 
For plants of the Brassica family, such as 
cabbage and cauliflower, which are greedy feeders, 
you must have rich soil ; and, if not rich 
naturally, it must be made so by liberal 
manuring. 
The deep alluvial fiats commonly found near 
the banks of many of our creeks and rivers are 
ideal soils for this class of produce, being, as 
a rule, very rich in humns, and containing 
all the elements necessary to produce high-class 
vegetable crops, 
A light sandy loam is better for such crops 
as onions, carrots, &c. ; but as it is not always 
possible to get several kin<ls of soil within the 
limits of a garden, it follows that the soil 
must be made, as far as practicable, to suit each 
different crop by varying methods of treatment 
and manuring. 
In locating the garden it is well not to have 
it too far from the dwelling ; in fact, if the house 
is in the garden, so much the better. 
As to aspect, if the garden is on a slope, the 
fall should be to the east, but a level site is 
preferable, as level ground can be more easily 
and economically worked than a slope : and 
there is not the danger of both soil and crops 
being washed away during heavy rains, which 
is always to be feared when the garden is on 
a hillside. Then, if possible, the garden should 
be protected from the prevailing winds by a 
ridge or a belt of timber. In clearing scrub lands 
for a garden it is advitable to leave a belt of trees 
standing on the side from which the prevailing 
winds blow. This belt should be two or three 
chains wide, and not sufficiently close to the 
garden to interfere with the free access of light 
and air to the plants. 
If no natural shelter exists, it is advisable to 
plant a belt of such trees as camphors, silky 
oak«, or loquats on the exposed side. 
This belt should consist of two or three rows 
of trees ; the trees in the rows not being all 
in one line, but alternating with each other. 
This mode of planting breaks the force of the 
wind more effectually than straight rows. It 
is, of course, impossible to obtain a garden site 
fulfilling all the conditions you would like ; but 
get the best you can, and then try to supply 
yourself what Nature has left out. 
PBEPAEISG THE LAND. 
In preparing the land for gardening, I should 
recommend deep working to being with. Get 
down 16 or 18 inches with a subsoil plough if 
you can. The advantage of deep working will 
be chiefly apparent in a long spell of dry weather, 
