\Peb. 13, 1904.] 
.FOREST AND STREAM. 
183 
Obabika is a fine lake with a total length of seven- 
teen or eighteen miles. It differs from Temagami 
in two important respects: it has few islands, and the 
water is amber-hued, like that of Lady Evelyn Lake 
aind the Metabetchouan waters. Our camp was a very, 
pleasant one, although for a time it looked as though 
we might have to go without a bed, since a colony of 
hornets dwelt perilously near the only fir trees. After 
supper, in the glow of a fine sunset, we took the lame 
man out trolling, and he took the largest lake trout of 
' the trip, a fish weighing nearly four pounds. 
July 24. From Obabika, over portage to Obabika. 
Bay, an extension of the northwest arm of TemagamL 
Down the arm to our old camp near Bear Island; 
distance, about thirteen miles. _ 
The rangers had promised to pass our way on their 
way back to Temagami, and we had half agreed to go 
Over the portage with them. About seven o'clock I 
was aroused by the swift click of paddles against the 
gunwales of a canoe. Presently the sound ceased an 
I knew that the rangers were inspecting our camp for 
any signs of that early start that we were going to 
make. Seeing no signs of life — for nobody but my- 
self had heard them — they continued on their way 
without us. About an hour later we tumbled out, 
disgracefully late — but why not at times have your nap 
out in the woods as elsewhere? 
It was but a short paddle from our island to the 
portage, and the portage itself is only a few hundred 
yards in length. We were soon following the tor- 
tuosities of Obabika Bay, and reached the wide 
expanse of the Northwest Arm in titne for lunch. 
A two-hour fight with a cross wind took us 
back to the little island camp near the Post at about 
half past three. It was homelike to find our 
iDOUgh beds undisturbed, and tent poles all cut and ready 
for use, for all of which we were grateful, for we were 
tired. 
July 25. The wind shifted to the north in the night, 
and by morning a fine, cold rain was driving down the 
lake. By afternoon this had degenerated into a mist 
which interfered with our movements about camp very 
little. We celebrated our return by having a "royal 
gorge" that night. The menu consisted of bacon and 
boiled beans, fried rice cakes and maple syrup, hot 
biscuits and cocoa. This followed by a pipe before a 
roaring camp-fire put us in the proper frame of mind 
for a sound night's rest. But before we turned in, we 
discussed our enforced return to civilization, and de- 
cided to make an early start pn the following day, 
fully expecting to start in the rain. 
July 26. From Bear Island to end of Northeast 
Arm of Temagami. Camp, the same we occupied 
going in; distance, about sixteen miles. 
' We were bffiiabodt eightjo'cloc^^ surprised 
to find that the rain had blown over in the night, and 
that it- was a most beautiful day with clear, crisp air 
and a "strong north wind. We had reduced our loads 
to the sniallest dimensions, leaving behind everything 
that had served its purpose and repacking the remnant 
in.the smallest pbssible~space.' 'Portages could now be 
made in practically: one trip, although one man had to 
go back each time for- some of the light stuff.- 
Bidding good-by .to : Mr. Woods and the friendly 
rangers at the Post, ' we headed for Metagama . Point 
aided by the wind. • After rounding the point we hugged 
the north shore as closely asr possible, but even so,, we 
caught it pretty strongly off one or two bays that we 
had to cross, and we congratulated ourselves that this 
same wind was not blowing from the east. 
Passing . over this portion of the country, which 
I have already described. Twill pass on to the outlet of 
Rabbit Lake, which we reached on the afternoon of 
Monday, the 27th, having made four portages and 
about thirty-five miles in two days. This was good time 
for us, although in reality, rather slow going. While 
we were encamped at the outlet of Rabbit Lake, a 
voyageur passed us about nine o'clock in the evening, 
who made the whole trip from Temagami to the mouth 
of the Montreal River, a distance of about fifty miles, 
in eleven hours, traveling nearly all night and making 
nine portages. But he was professional, and we, as 
amateurs, were entirely satisfied with our rate of pro- 
gress. 
July 28. From outlet of Rabbit Lake down the 
Metabetchouan to head of Third Bass Pond. Four 
portages, all on the right bank. Camp, the same we 
had occupied before at the head of Third Pond; dis- 
tance, about seven miles. 
This was emphatically a day of work. But two miles 
down the river we came to the first portage. This is 
made necessary by the Rabbit Chute where the river 
boils down through a cleft in the rocks, and thence over 
a series of ledges. The portage is about three-quarters 
of a mile long. Then follow two more portages, and 
finally the long Side Rock, where the trail leads up and 
along the side of a hill of solid rock covered by a 
scanty growth of trees and bushes, among which are 
many blueberries. It is about a mile in length, and the 
footing in many places is none of the best. A spring 
brook crosses the trail just below its upper end, and 
we availed ourselves of its cold water at lunch. Here 
we saw the only elms we had noticed during our 
wanderings, likewise the only minister, an itinerant 
Presbyterian, carrying his own Peterboro canoe. He 
was bound for the country south of Rabbit Lake. It 
is not an easy parish for pastoral calls; but the life 
has its charms, and he seemed well content. 
From the foot of the Side Rock Portage it was but 
a short paddle to Fourth Bass Pond, where we struck 
our own trair again,' for it was at this jjoint that we 
had turned aside to enter McDonald Lake. Running 
down the swift water up which we had towed our 
canoes, we were once more at our former camp on 
Third Bass Pond. A fine drizzle set in as soon as we 
reached camp, and continued most of the night, but we 
had a good fire, and even accomplished a little fishing 
before darkness came on.. Among the spoils was a 
good two-pound bass, taken off the rocks with the fly. 
July 29. Through Third, Second, and First Bass 
Ponds. Over Clay Hill Portage, down the Metabetch- 
ouan, to Bonner's (Montreal River); distance, about 
eight miles. 
We had now but one more portage to make,, the 
dreaded Clay Hill; but we had a day in which to ac- 
complish it, and so we decided to put all our duffle in 
practically final shape before leaving camp. After a 
heavy shower at about eight o'clock the sun came out, 
but the day was close and warm. We breakfasted at 
about half-past ten, and spent the rest of the morning 
in packing. In the course of this we made an inventory 
of our' supplies, and it may perhaps interest those who 
take similar trips to know how we came out. There 
remained about 81bs. of bacon (besides about 61bs. 
given away at Bear Island), >^lb. maccaroni, J^lb. 
sugar, ^Ib. baking powder, 2lbs. salt pork, ^Ib. tea, 
3lbs. rice, y2 bar of soap, and il4 cans milk. Every- 
thing else had been eaten clean. On the whole, we 
were pleased with the . closeness of our estimate. This 
surplus we left in our remaining box, and we have 
reason to believe that there was no waste, for we told 
one of the rangers where it was. 
Then, having dedicated our cast-off clothes to the gods 
of the woods, we girded our loins for the final strug- 
gle with Clay Hill. It proved pretty hot, but a good 
bath at the end and clean clothes put us in fine fettle 
once more, and the three miles to Bonner's were- made 
in good time. 
Our trip -was, virtually at an end, and of the return 
to civilization little need be said. Early on the next 
day we took the steamer for Temiskaming, where we 
sold one of our faithful canoes, and saw it start back 
into the woods within an.: hour, whither we should have 
been glad to accompany it. The same night we boarded 
the express at Mattawa, arriving' nex:t morning at the 
Canadian Capital. In Ottawa we were forced to spend 
most of the day, but the city is so beautiful that the 
time was well spent. Yes, our trip was over. But no 
one ever visits the Temagami country without bring- 
ing away a resolve to go again, and we are living in 
hopes that the happy time may not be overfar in the 
future. 
The Maiden Cruise of Istar. 
From Grcenpoft L. I , to St. Johns, N. B., and Return, 
July 16 to September 8, J903, 
BY BROOKS H. WELLS, NEW YORK CITY. 
"O ^gir, friend, thy years are fleet — 
Soon comes the time of couch and staff; 
- We follo-w thee" with earnest feet," ' 
Nor dream thy joys in half. 
The hurrying -wine of living strife 
Upon the eager lip is s-weet, 
And to the jeweled brim we'll quaff 
The glorious cup of life. 
"O ^gir, take my hands in thine— 
Soft ease and safety are but vain; 
■We'll quaff with thee the windy wine 
And dare the farthest main. 
Thy breath is round us, wild and warm, 
And bright along the rushing brine 
■We sweep with all thy shining train 
On plumed wings of storm." 
— McNeal. 
The Maine coast, is beautiful, and could we eliminate 
the fog would be a paradise for the small boat. Even 
with the fog, cold, -wet, and blinding, and with weather as 
fickle as chance, it is most fascinating to him who would 
lie near to nature's heart, who loves the sea, and who de- 
lights in overcoming difficulties purely for the pleasure 
of it. 
If he goes as he should, as his own skipper, crew and 
cook, or with a companion or two to do their share, he is 
certain to be a' better man for it both in body and mind, 
for the Vv^ork exacts persistence, courage, coolness in the 
face of danger, and quick decision. Try it if you can get 
a boat that is strongly built, decked, and made so that all 
openings can be securely closed, and deep enough so that 
a capsize is unlikely. Size is of less importance than 
staunchness. The yawl rig is the safest and most easilv 
managed. 
Starting from. Long Island Sound the first bit of open 
sea comes in the twenty-five miles from Watch Hill by 
P^int Judith to Newport, but the nearly cotnplete4 har- 
bor of refuge' just west of the point makes a convenient, 
even if somewhat treacherous, haven for the belated 
sailor. From Point Judith to the Vineyard Sound is 
another long stretch of about twenty-five miles of open 
water, but, if you like, you can coast along by Newport, 
Sakonnet, and the Hen and Chickens and never be more 
than five miles from a harbor. 
The most exposed part of the run is that from Hyannis 
L 
Vineyard Sotmd Ligh-t -Vessel. 
over the shoals and up the cape to Provincetown or Cape 
Ann. Fqr this the little fellow must wait for favorable 
weather, and while waiting should study the Current 
Table for Nantucket and the Vineyard Sound in Part III. 
of the U. S. Coast Pilot, so as to be able to get clear over 
the shoals with a fair tide. If drawing under five feet 
he may try the Point Channel after he has carefully 
studied the large scale chart, remembering that he must 
have a fair tide and must keep close in to the beach until 
past, the Monoraoy light. The shoals, near the beach off 
Monomoy require care, as. they; change from year to year. 
_ From €ape , Ann to .Portland, you are seldom more thaii 
from a hHrbiar,- an4 ■ from: Portland to Little 
River there is always ^ shelter in sight. From Little 
River to St. John, N. B., the way is more exposed, but 
may be negotiated- with care. 
The small boat should usually be content with a point 
not further east than Mt. Desert, or Winter Harbor, and 
should not venture beyond until both skipper and boat 
have been proved worthy. 
In preparing for a cruise, be extravagant when it comes 
to matters -of safety, and have good side and anchor lights. 
Get the best 3^-inch or 4-inch liquid compass that you 
can buy,.-and a good binnaeler Set it carefully- so that a 
line passing through the lubber's point and the center of 
the card is exactly parallel with the fore and aft line 
of the keel. 
Know the deviation of your compass on all courses. 
There may be none on a small boat, but be sure about it. 
Always stow all iron articles in the same place, and as far 
away from your, compass as possible. Don't, in a fog, 
stand your horn upright near the compass, and expect to 
fetch where you think you are pointing. 
Carry the latest buoy and light list and a full set of 
Government largest scale charts of the waters you expect: 
to sail over. .tJntiL,jo.u become expert, lay off every, 
course with parallel rule and dividers and sail by compass 
and log. You then soon learn to allow -for leeway and 
current, and to know your exact position at all times, so 
that when fog comes you have confidence to hold your 
course, and skill to make it. 
Keep yourself familiar with every line, spar, and fasten- 
ing of your boat and rigging, so as to detect and remedy 
any- sign of weakness or wear. 
Carry two anchors of good weight, long shanked and 
stocked, and plenty of spare cable, not too heavv, but re- 
liable. Then carry an extra anchor below. If you have 
to drop your hook on rocky bottom, first carry the cable 
down the shank of the anchor and secure it to the crown 
by a clove hitch, then bring the cable back to the ring 
and make it fast with a single loose turn of marline. 
Neglect of this precaution has lost many an anchor, but 
when an anchor is "muzzled" in this way don't put too 
much faith in it, as it may break out when you rnost wish 
It to hold. 
The blue pigeon" is not so frequently needed on the 
Maine coast, where the rocks and reefs usually rise 
abruptly from deep water, as it is on the. sandy shores 
and bars south from Boston,, ^ut ^oh't forget it. Carry 
