il6 FOREST AND STREAM. tMARCH 12, 1904. 
about as they had been all along — occurring constantly, 
but not specially rough ; in fact, we found this section of 
the river the easiest in that respect of any section that 
we had as yet cruised over. My chart gives a couple of 
100 feet contour lines across the river at a distance of 
less than four miles between our camp and Caldwell, and 
we had expected to have rather a strenuous time of it this 
morning, but we found no indications of any unusual fall. 
We passed under the picturesque old covered bridge at 
Caldwell — curious how much alike all of these old bridges 
are ! — and found a 3-foot dam below it, the first we have 
encountered on the cruise since portaging the dam at 
Cass, but with the present water we went right over it, 
after standing up in our canoes to diagnose the situation. 
Presently the main line of the Chesapeake and Ohio Rail- 
way appeared on the left bank, and we skirted along it for 
a couple of miles or so, until it crossed over our heads to 
the right bank on a fine iron bridge, immediately below 
which our little Greenbrier road, which has been keeping 
us company for the entire cruise, loses its identity in the 
main line. Long lines of old disused and decaying log 
booms, relics of the rafting days before the construction 
of the Greenbrier road, and indicating our approach to 
Ronceverte, began to appear, and it was a nice question 
to choose the proper side at the head of a boom. We got 
on the wrong side of one of them once, and had to make 
a portage, fortunately an easy one, by stepping out on 
one of the links of the massive log chain and sliding 
our canoes over and through a little gap between the ends 
of the log links. The immense lumber mills of the St. 
Lawrence Company at Ronceverte next appeared, past 
which we slowly paddled, arousing no little interest and 
curiosity in the minds of the numerous men at work on 
the river front, and the end of our cruise was close at 
hand, for in a few minutes more we beached our canoes 
on a grassy, well shaded bank immediately above the 
immense 20-foot dam at Ronceverte, which to us was 
the foot of navigation, and our delightful and interesting 
cruise of two weeks and no miles was at an end. 
We had plenty of time, as we had all day before us, 
so we took things leisurely. We unpacked the canoes 
and drew them up out of the water, and sorted out the 
camp plunder — something of a task with George, as his 
canoe and part of his stuff was to return tO' Staunton, 
while a considerable part of it was to be returned by ex- 
press to his home in Frostburg, Maryland, and still a 
third installment was to be made up and placed in his 
clothes bag and taken with him, for it was his plan to 
return up the Greenbrier road to Durbin, and thence go 
back to Arbogast's on the upper waters of the "Near 
Prong" (the location of Camp Cooke), and have a few 
July days with the trout (George loves to fish), after 
which he would get home as he came, by working his way 
back up through the mountain on the various log roads 
until he reached the main road at Elkins, whence he could 
read his title clear to an orthodox and quick trip home. 
We had lunch on the bank under the trees, after which a 
wagon was procured from the village and the canoes 
and camp duffle hauled to the freight station, where all 
of the camp outfit was boxed and shipped separately. We 
find that it pays to box everything separately that will go 
in a box, and send the canoes as absolutely light and 
empty as possible, for we never escape paying four times 
first-class rates, actual weight, on the canoes, and it is 
poor economy to leave a couple of hundred pounds or so 
of camp duffle in a canoe to make it weigh that much 
more, when the same stuff can be sent at one-fourth the 
rate when boxed separately. 
Ronceverte is essentially a railroad and lumber town, 
and although quite an important business point from a 
railroad standpoint, we did not find much in it to interest 
us, as we idled around the little place for the rest of the 
afternoon and evening, after we had secured a room at 
the hotel and indulged in the luxury of a shave, a clean 
flannel outing shirt, and respectable garments. Polk Mil- 
ler, the delineator of negro characters, with his inimitable 
quartette of plantation darkey singers, chanced to be 
there that evening, and helped us to pass the evening in a 
pleasant and entertaining manner, and the next morning 
found us on our respective trains, each homeward bound 
in his own way. 
III. — EPILOGUE. 
As a cruising stream, the Greenbrier is a di.stinct and 
pronounced success, combining all the good qualities a 
cruising stream should have— good swift water, plenty of 
rapids, which, while sufficiently rough to be exciting, are 
not dangerous ; beautiful and picturesque mountain 
scenery ; a genial, healthful climate, free from malaria 
and mosquitoes, and good bass fishing withal. We were 
delighted with the success of our experiment, and our 
only regret was that I did not have a week more at my 
disposal, so that we could lie by a couple of days for the 
bad water to run off, and then continue the cruise to 
Hinton, where the Greenbrier unites with the New River. 
There is some rough water scattered" around in the re- 
cesses of the "big bend," not far above Hinton, and the 
bass fishing is said to be unusually good in this remote 
region. These points will make it attractive to both me 
and George, and it is quite likely that next year will find 
us again gliding over its mirror-like reaches, slipping 
over its glassy shallows, and shooting swiftly down its 
rock-strewn rapids in our canoes. 
CANOEING NEWS NOTES. 
Shattemuc Yacbt and Canoe Club. 
The annual meeting of the Shattemuc Yacht and Canoe 
Club was held at the club house on March 3, Vice-Com- 
modore Gilbert M. Todd presiding. The following offi- 
cers were elected : Com., Franklin Brandreth ; Vice- 
Com., Gilbert M. Todd ; Rear-Com., Edward B. Sher- 
wood ; Sec'y, William E. Barlow ; Treas., William M. 
Carpenter; Meas., Roger M. Haddock; Trustees, three 
years, Edward B. Sherwood, Edwin L. Todd. Governing 
Committee — J. Herbert Carpenter, chairman ; Gilbert M. 
Todd, William L Townsend, T. Henry Calam, Albert R. 
Genet. Committee on Admission — Franklin Brandreth, 
chairman; William L Townsend, Edwin L. Todd, T. 
Flenry Calam, Remsen W. Nourse. House Committee — 
James Bedell, chairman; Roger M. Haddock, S. Olin 
Washburne, A. Fred Carpenter, J. E. Huber. Regatta 
Committee — William M. Carpenter, chairman ;' William 
E. Barlow, Robert T. Dennis. Auditing Committee — 
William C. Kipp, chairman; T. Henry Calam, Milton C. 
Palmer. 
The Indra Log. 
The Story of a Cruise from Marbit head, M ss , 
to Sydney, N. B. 
BY HENRY G. PICKERING, BOSTON, MASS. 
To the yachtsman pure and simple, to the tired 
brain worker who has never even guessed its stimulat- 
ing and recuperative power, and to the mere senti- 
mental idler, he he yachtsman or no, a cruise on sum- 
mer seas offers alike and in turn the eager sport, the 
rest and the lazy indulgence so welcome to their sev- 
eral desires and so essential to their individual needs. 
There is enough of active responsibility and delightful 
freedom to satisfy the sailor's keenest longings, and 
enough of absolute do-nothingness, if he so elects, with 
an enforced separation from life's more insistent de- 
mands, to force the thoughts of the over-tired into 
new and restful channels; and for each and all the three, 
there is the strange and stirring companionship of the 
sea, so compelling and absorbing that the voyager is 
by turns and despite himself sailor, idler, philosopher, 
and dreamer as the changing moods of sea and wind 
and sky shall determine, and all to his lasting content- 
'ment and well being. This, by way of philosophic pro- 
logue to the reader, whether he shall be on sport or 
health or simple pleasure bent, or even none of these, 
but only one who loves to hear of ventures by land and 
sea, albeit he shares them only in the spirit that makes 
all good and happy things our own. 
The coast of Maine has long and deservedly been the 
favorite sailing domain of Atlantic yachtsmen. In itself 
an unusually beautiful and interesting shore, and with 
safe and easy harbors at convenient intervals, it offers 
perhaps greater inducements for the short cruise than 
can be found in any other of our eastern waters. For 
while the summer resorts in almost every cove and in- 
let invite to pleasant idling, the uncertainty of its weath- 
er conditions supplies that element of excitement and 
not infrequent danger which makes, in large part, the 
charm of yachting life. 
Beyond Bar Harbor, however, or at farthest Campo- 
bello Island, it is unusual to find the New York or New- 
England yacht. There seems to be a feeling of vague 
apprehension, or it may be a lack of the sailor's im- 
agination, in regard to the coast east and north of 
these points. To show, if possible, that this appre- 
hension is unfounded, and to stimulate without quite 
satisfying a healthy curiosity, this story of a sailing 
cruise to the farther East has been written, with natural 
hesitation and some misgiving. It is told in the form 
of the yacht's log, as actually_ kept from day to day; 
and if the incidents seem trivial and scarcely worthy 
the recording, it must be remembered that the life at 
sea is one of but slightly varied rputine, and the shore 
experiences brief and devoted, for the most part^, to 
our single pursuit of fishing. But with all its sameness — 
and there is a certain charm perhaps in all pleasant 
routine — it has been to us who shared it a record of de- 
lightful days to be long remembered and, if it may be, 
shared with others who shall read the simple story. 
It is a far cry — 700 miles by the coast, as we made 
it, from Marblehead to Sydney, Cape Breton. We 
were fifty-four days from anchorage to anchorage; but 
yachts do not sail as the crow flies, and tides and 
weather, though we had our share of good luck, are 
not always propitious. 
The Indra, Eastern Y. C, is a schooner yacht, built 
in 1901, by George Lawley & Son, of South Boston, 
painted white, measuring 46ft. on the waterline, and 
72ft. over all, 15ft. beam, with 16 tons of lead outside 
on the keel, and drawing lo^^ft. of water. Capable of 
eleven knots an hour in fair wind, of quick action in 
answering the helm, with a flush deck and ample stand- 
ing room, she is easily handled in any weather and is 
an unusually dry boat, standing well up to her work 
and holding her own without trouble in the heavy tide- 
rips of the lower Maine and Nova Scotia coasts. Be- 
low, she is roomy and thoroughly comfortable, having 
a large galley with men's quarters forward, good cabin 
with plenty of headroom and wide transoms, owner's 
stateroom at the foot of the companionway amidships, 
and guests' stateroom with two bunks aft; convenient 
cupboards and lockers, set bowls for washing in state- 
rooms and lavatory, good sanitary equipment, and the 
entire boat well ventilated, clean, and wholesome. The 
sail plan comprises the usual equipment of a schooner- 
rigged yacht, with a storm tryisail for emergencies; the 
two boats are the "dinghy" and the "gig," both bright 
boats, that is, of the natural wood varnish. The finish 
of the yacht is mahogany, and the fittings of brass, 
kept brightly polished at all times, weather permitting. 
The ship's company were the owner and three guests 
aft, with a crew of three and a steward forward; so we 
were full handed for the voyage. 
It is a Sunday morning, June 28, bright and clear 
when we leave our anchorage opposite the Eastern Y. 
C. in Marblehead Harbor; wind light from southwest; 
with all sails set and drawing well; down the 
Beverly and Manchester coast, past Eastern Point, 
where we dip the ensign to the American and Can- 
adian flags, flying at our good friend K's, on the shore, 
and Thatcher's twin lights are in line at 11:45. We take 
in the jib topsail and set the spinnaker, the breeze 
freshens, and at 4 o'clock we make Portsmouth Harbor 
and come to anchor behind Kittery Point. A day of 
fine sailing, clear skies, and sparkHng water, most favor- 
able of send-offs for the long voyage before us. 
It is an early start next morning, 4:30; and laggards 
must be astir! The wind is light and little of it be- 
fore noon; but the tide is with us and the breeze fresh- 
ens later, giving a fair run to Wood Island, where we 
ground lightly on the muddy bottom a§ we Qome to 
anchor, but swinging clear during the evening with the 
turn of the tide. 
Tuesday, the 30th, and another early start at 5. A 
strenuous ' beginning, do you say? Well, try it some 
day, good reader, whether yachtsman or no, and draw 
the fine crisp air from over- the \vater into your lungs 
and the sparkle and pure delight of the morning into 
your heart. To-day the wind is shifting from northeast 
to southwest, and at noon we set the spinnaker, most 
helpful of sails before the wind, off Cape Elizabeth, 
Portland Harbor, and carry it the rest of the day. We 
make Port Clyde (Herring Gut), at 6:15, and come to 
anchor for the night. 
The morning brings our first fog and very light wind, 
but growing stronger from the southwest about noon. 
A good run to Madochawando Bay, opposite Castine, 
'at 4:45. Here is a cozy harbor and good shelter, with 
a warm welcome from the household of our shipmate 
H., at his summer home. At the landing stage lies an 
old schooner, a peaceful "Temeraire tugged here to its 
last moorings," the sea-moss deep on its weather-beaten 
sides, and vines and flowers running riot over its 
crumbling deck. Across this and climb the steep bank 
and everywhere are fine reaches of sea and shore, and 
our host's piazza and hospitality so inviting that we 
are fain to stay over a day, despite fair winds for east- 
ward sailing. 
But July 3 we are off again at 8 A. M., with a 
fine, strong breeze from the northwest, and makes the 
North Haven anchorage in Fox Island Thoroughfare, 
at 10:50. Here is more cordial hospitality from friends 
ashore, and Independence Day, to-morrow, to be duly 
celebrated on American soil. Surely we must stay 
over, as in patriotic duty bound, even though we lose 
our last fair wind thereby. Then there are sundry and 
various things to be done; we have determined to" leave 
behind us our spinnaker and fore topmast, making a 
snug rigging for unknown conditions on a new coast: 
mail must be got and sent; and water and supplies taken 
on board. 
July 4, the morning breaks fine. All are up bright 
and early and dress ship, in hf^'^r of the day. The 
"Thoroughfare" is wide awake tnis morning, flags are 
out everywhere, and there is much bustle and prepara- 
tion for the regatta — two races for the knockabouts and 
small cats being in order, and great rivalry among the 
young owners and skippers thereof. All this we watch 
comfortably with our guests from our own deck, and 
therefore return visits with tea drinking and hearty 
welcome ashore. 
Another fine morning on the 5th_, but wind light 
from the east. The Columbia, Commodore L., of 
Yarmouth, N. S., anchored near by, is off before us, 
bound for St. John, to the races. A busy forenoon, 
lightering fresh water for our three tanks from the 
shore in one of our own boats, filled as deep as she will 
float, taking down the fore topmast and §torin§ it with 
