286 
FOREST AND STREAM, 
[March 19, 1904, 
arranged to start early next morning for Greenfield, 
eighteen miles away and inland. Breakfast aboard at 
5:20, then ashore and take team, arriving at Greenfield 
in time for second breakfast at the small, but comfort- 
able hotel. The river is a picturesque one, with a 
number of good pools, but we are, of course, late for 
the salmon, and the trout are small and not of very full 
flavor. Back to the hotel for a late dinner and the 
night; the next morning we fished the lower river 
from where we had stopped the evening before. Two 
grilse and a couple of dozen small trout reward us, and 
we end a plesant two day's outing, and are back on 
board for a late supper at 9 o'clock. 
How glorious these clear, crisp mornings are, and 
how the blood courses in the veins! These are the 
halcyon days of yachting life — past misadventures for- 
gotten, no more grumbling at fog or fate, but "Stand 
by the main sheet!— a little more — that's well — make 
fast!" See how she takes it, and carries her lee rail 
awash! 
We make St. Margaret's Bay in good time after eight 
hours of perfect sailing, and then a long beat up to the 
anchorage in Hubbard Cove. We are a strange sight in 
these waters, no yacht of our size' having ever visited 
Bras D'Or Light. 
here within the recollection of the veteran light-keeper 
whO' comes aboard for a friendly chat. On this coast 
look out for fishing nets ; they are set all along shore at 
frequent intervals, and are easily picked up and cut by 
a boat of our draft, and constitute almost the only sea 
peril to the owners, and incidentally to the yachtman's 
pocket, that we have here encountered. 
A fair wind in the morning and a good run inside 
Sambro Light, gaining a considerable distance, round 
Chebucto Head and to anchor in Halifax Harbor in front 
of the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron's house at 
4:35- We are promptly visited, as is the invariable cus- 
tom in Canadian ports, by a delegation from the club ex- 
tending to us the hospitalities of the Squadron's house 
during our stay. 
Next morning going ashore we are met by the house 
secretary with our mail, and return with him to visit the . 
club's am.ple and comfortable quarters. In the late after- 
noon we are the guests of the honorary secretary, Mr. 
Wylde, on the Youla, the commodore and Mr. T. on 
board, to the Northwest Arm, an exceedingly pretty and 
sheltered bit of water with beautiful country places and 
smaller cottages along its shores, their grounds freely 
thrown open to picnicking parties from the town in full 
enjoyment of the afternoon's outing. We dine and pass a 
delightful evening watching the fireworks and boat parade 
of colored lanterns, and listening to the admirable regi- 
mental band ; all of this a weekly occurrence with the 
Haligonians, and to be heartily commended to the holiday- 
seekers of our home shores. 
Next day it is our turn to entertain our kind hosts at 
St. Peter's Passage. 
lunch and dinner, and to take regretful leave for the 
morrow's start. 
The smoky morning of the 5th opens with a slack 
wind falling to calm, - but once under way the breeze 
strengthens, the skies clear to the eastward, and we do 
some fast sailing on our all-day run. Jeddore Harbor 
lights are in line at 9 P. M., and we anchor in the narrow 
entrance. Have a care here, and work slowly and cau- 
tiously up — there is little room to spare. 
August 6, and our second trout fishing trip. Ten miles 
inland to drive and a mile and a half row up river. 
The fish are small, but we get a mess with specimens of 
sea trout and grayling. But there is lake fishing further 
away and worth the trying, we are told ; so why not stay 
over the night? The country is fine, the weather premis- 
ing, and the sport ? Well, we shall see what the morrow 
brings forth. So we start for the great "Ship Harbor 
Lake" at 7 130, with the D's, father and son, a haul and a 
carry by the way, changing boats at the latter, and then 
seven miles straight away to the head of the lake. The 
shores are densely wooded, and the whole character of the 
country strikingly like that of a Scottish Loch; even the 
touch of mist is not wanting this morning to complete 
the likeness. A one-pound tfout got trolling a two- 
pWjider with tlie % at a reedy pomt "along ifiore are our 
best fish. We lunch at an old logging camp, and vary 
our return journey by two of us taking boat for the en- 
tire distance to the yacht, and finding thereby that we 
could have readily brought the latter to a point within 
easy reach of the Lake. 
We are waked in the gray of the morning by an in- 
bound schooner drifting against us with the tide, and 
slightly breaking the larger boat swinging from the 
davits, a fortunate escape from serious damage. At 9.:so 
we are ofif with a good wind and shape our course from 
Jeddore Rock for Beaver Harbor; the sea is heavy from 
the hard blow of the day before, but the wind holds well 
and we anchor off Port Dufferin, Beaver Harbor, at 4 130. 
Here is report of further trout fishing at Quoddy, and L. 
and E. must needs be off that evening in preparation for 
it. The writer, not so intent, follows in the morning, a 
three-mile walk to Warren's farmhouse, and- there awaits 
their return. It is late supper time when they arrive, 
but it has been a good day's sport at the lakes, and the 
trout gamy and of fair size. 
Fog and rain in the morning, clearing later with a 
light breeze in the afternoon. We make sail at 5:10, in- 
tending a night run, but find a heavy sea outside and fall- 
ing wind, so we run back to harbor and anchor behind 
McLeod's Island. A snug berth and a beautiful moon- 
light night, and we are consoled. 
It is nearly noon of the next day before the breeze 
comes, and we start, intending to make Liscomb Harbor 
for the night, but the wind falls again, the fog comes in 
rapidly and thick, and we make ready for our only night 
run of the trip, as it proves, to Canso ; "oilers" are' got 
out, the binnacle lamp lighted, and watches assigned. 
First watch, eight to twelve, seventeen miles; slow 
progress, but better than the next — twelve to four— when 
we make but six miles by the patent log astern. Now the 
breeze freshens, and we do some good sailing; so good 
that we decide not to go into Canso Harbor, but to keep 
right on for St. Peter's Passage, the entrance to the Bras 
D'Or Lakes. We make the moorings there at 11:45 A. 
M., finding the Sibyl, N. Y. Y. C, which has made the 
trip from New London direct, and go at once into the 
lock of the canal. The passage is a short one, but slow. 
Frenchman at Sydney. 
by tow-line from the shore and with a considerable traffic 
to and fro, and we tie up at the further end for lunch; 
then a mile or so up the Little Bras D'Or, but the wind 
is ahead, and beating up the narrow passage a difficult 
problem, so why not anchor for the night in this pretty 
bay, out of the channel and opposite the miniature light- 
house on the point ? 
August 13, a perfect day, with a fine and favoring wind 
through the narrow channel into broader water. Here 
we have our first glimpse of the beauties of the Bras 
D'Or, in places not unlike the Norwegian fjords, but with 
much variety of shore, dotted with lighthouses on pro- 
jecting spits and sandbars, and inland with well kept 
farms and settlements, signs of an industrious and pros- 
perous country life. At the Narrows we pass the draw 
of the railroad bridge and are hailed from the Baddeck 
steamer lying at the wharf. Here is our friend and new 
shipmate, A., whom we had telegraphed to meet us at 
Baddeck, and we lay to and take him aboard with hearty 
welcome. Then up the lake again, the Greater Bras D'Or, 
End at six o'clock come to anchor off Baddeck. It is a 
short stay here, for Whycocomaugh (pronounced locally 
"Haugama") and the Margaree River of salmon fame 
&re awaiting us, and "Baddeck and that sort of thing"* 
can abide our return. So at 1 130 next day we are off via 
St. Patrick's Channel, and anchor in the late afternoon 
opposite Salt Mountain in the harbor of Whycocomaugh. 
From here the Margaree is some thirty miles away, a 
day's drive, with lunch at McLean's, the ten-mile stopping 
place, where we find sundry anglers, yearly visitors to 
Ainslee Lake, the famous trout fishing ground of this 
region, .but who are having this season but indifferent 
luck. A beautiful valley this of the Margaree, the river 
promising with tempting pools and clean shore and 
shingle from which to cast. Our host is Dougald Camp- 
bell, a genial Scot, and keeper of an excellent hotel. We 
are unannounced, other guests are coming, and rooms 
are limited, but we are made welcome and comfortable 
at once. The population here is almost entirely Scottish 
Highlanders, sturdy and independent, and with much 
canny humor and kindly feeling. 
Next evening, Sunday, come John Carroll and his son, 
old fishermen on this river, to discuss probabilities and 
arrange for Monday's outing. 'Under the law all nets 
must be taken up on the evening of the 15th of October, 
the day of our arrival, and legalized netting then ceases, 
*The title pi Charles Dudley Waraer's l^ook ea tWg refiofl. 
fly-fishing continuing to the 31st. This, under ordinary 
conditions and earlier in the season, should insure an 
abundant fresh run of salmon into the river from the sea; 
but we are very late, and the season has been an "off" one, 
so we temper expectation with hope, and are at least sure 
of the delights of nature in this most beautiful of valleys. 
_ Monday morning we are told the fish have come in 
already and have been seen in numbers in the pools; but 
if they are there they are certainly very shy. At last A. 
raises a grilse, but it fails to take the fly." Nevertheless 
it is a good omen, and possibly forerunner of more; and 
sure enough, in a long pool just below E. hooks and land'i 
a fine fresh-run salmon of 18 pounds, plump and bright., 
and with the sea-lice still on its sides — sure sign that it 
is not long since it left salt water. The Margaree is an 
aggravating stream, from the fisherman's point of view; 
at least it was so to us, for the apparent conditions of 
stream_ and shore are ideal, and we fished it faithfully 
and with all the care of which we were capable, but be- 
yond this morning's result we got nothing and saw noth- 
ing of the salmon tribe during our stay. Trout there are, 
Frenchman at Sydney. 
nevertheless, of moderate size at all points on the river, 
and these supplement Mrs. Campbell's excellent table at 
morning and night. 
Eleven miles away on the Northeast Branch is the 
hatchery, to which we drive for a try at further pools, 
and with the fisherman's never-failing hope uppermost in 
our breasts. The country is of great beauty here, a fine 
stream with richly wooded banks, and "indications" are 
not lacking, but the salmon are elsewhere, or will not rise 
to our fly. The probabilities are that the entire region is 
over-fished, as the well-trodden paths at all points to the 
shore would indicate, as well as netted and speared. 
"Hinc nice lachrymce piscatoris." 
Next day a thirty-mile drive back to Whycocomaugh, 
and we are soon on board with our spoils, which include 
two young geese purchased at Campbell's for the larder, 
and duly appreciated by all hands. 
In the moiming the elder Carroll, most excellent of 
fishermen and companions, who had driven us over the 
day before, pays us an early visit on the yacht, and at 
nine o'clock we are off for Baddeck. At Indian Bay, 
St. Patrick's Channel, we drop anchor and go ashore for 
a short sporting trip, E. to the Baddeck River, where he 
secures eight snipe and sights two flocks of ducks, and A. 
and P. to fish the Middle River, most picturesque and 
promising of trout streams ; but there are few fish rising, 
and one only of a pound and a half takes our fly — just a 
suggestion of what "might be" for the patient angler. 
A short stop at Baddeck next day, and after lunch we 
are under way once more for Sydney, rounding the fine 
wooded promontory owned by Professor A. Graham 
Bell, and through the Narrows. Here are high shores 
and flawy winds, and, profiting by the maneuvers of ves- 
View south from Lotiisburg Light, showing old town of Louisburg 
in the distance. 
sels ahead, we drop our mainsail and work through under 
jib and foresail, then rounding the outer buoy under a 
strong and favoring wind we shape our course direct for 
Sydney Harbor. At seven o'clock we are at anchor 
opposite the yacht club house, our "farthest North," and 
destined to be the end of our outward cruise. There is 
cordial welcome, as always, on shore, and the usual pleas- 
ant interchange of courtesies with the club. 
August 22, at eight in the evening, start by train 
for Louisburg, and find an excellent small hotel, the 
landlady and the owner, Captain K., British Navy, retired, 
and a veteran of the Indian mutiny, most attentive and 
kind. 
The morning we spend at the old town, going over the 
fortifications and re-reading on the spot the story of the 
two sieges, the extraordinary strategy of Pepperell, and 
the daring energy of Wolfe. There are far more indica- 
tions of the forts than we had expected to find, and the 
traveler and student may well spend a day here to his en- 
joyment and profit. The harbor here is excellent, and the 
entrance channel well buoyed, and, with this windj there 
is a fine surf at the lighthouse cliff where we idle' away 
the afternoon. 
Next morning at seven we start again for Sydney, and 
