AprIi, 23, 19D4.3 
mals ill the couhtry, for their tracks were seen every- 
where; and when Mackenzie left a bundle of presents 
on a pole, as a good-will offering to any natives who 
might pass by, one of his Indians added to the bundle 
a small, round piece of gieen wood, chewed at one end 
to form a brush, such as the Indians use to pick out 
the marrow from bones. This was the sign of a country 
with many animals in it. At a number of points along 
the river they had found places where wood had .been 
chopped with axes, showing that the Indians who had 
passed along here had had intercourse with the whites. 
They were now flanked on both sides by high moun- 
tains covered with snow, and the cold was so severe 
that the men, although working hard, could not get 
along without their blanket coats. On the last day of 
May the men were so cold that they landed in order 
to kindle a fire. 
Their great labor, so long continued, had made Mac- 
kenzie's people more or less discontented. They were 
tired of the journey and anxious to get back. More- 
over, some wanted to go in one direction and some in 
another, and the forking of the river gave rise to open 
grumbling. However, Mackenzie handled them well, 
and they went on. On the ist of June he says: "In no 
part of the Northwest did I see so much beaver-work 
within an equal distance as in the course of this day. 
In some places they had cut down several acres of 
large poplars; and we saw also a great number of 
these active and sagacious animals. The time which 
these wonderful creatures allot for their labors, whether 
in erecting their curious habitations or providing food, 
is the whole of the interval between the setting and the 
rising sun?" 
Ever since they had started the water in the river 
had been rising, since, of course, the advancing sum- 
mer was melting the snows in the neighboring moun- 
tains and swelling all the streams. On the Sth of June 
Mackenzie left the canoe and ^ascending a high hill 
or mountain crossed the country, and climbing a tree 
looked ahead. He saw_ little that was interesting, and 
on returning to the river could see nothing of the 
canoe. Made anxious by this, he went forward to see 
if it was ahead, sending others of his people back to 
look for it. He had no food, and was preparing to lie 
out during the night when a shot from Mr. Mackay 
and the Indian who had been sent back 'announced 
that the canoe had been discovered. His people ex- 
cused their slow progress by saying that their canoe 
had been damaged and that the travel had been harder 
than on any previous day, and Mackenzie pretended 
to believe them. The difficulties of the way were now 
very great. The current was so strong that paddles 
could not be used, so deep that the poles were useless, 
while the bank of the river was so lined with willows 
and other trees that it was impossible to pass the fine. 
The water was still rising and the current growing 
stronger. In spite of all these impediments they 
pushed on, and were already beginning to look for the 
carrying place, where they should cross the mountains 
to the stream which ran toward the Pacific. 
On Sunday, June 9, they noticed a smell of fire, and 
in a short time heard people in the timber, as if in a 
state of confusion. The Indians were frightened by the 
discovery of the explorer's party, and the explorer's 
party were not a little alarmed for fear they should be 
attacked. Very judiciously Mackenzie turned his canoe 
off to the opposite side of the river, and before they 
were half way across two men appeared on the rising 
ground opposite them, brandishing their spears, dis- 
playing bows and arrows and shouting. The inter- 
preter called to the Indians, telling fhem that the white 
people were friendly, yet the Indians preserved a 
-threatening attitude, but after some talk consented to 
the landing of the party, though evidently very much 
frightened. They laid aside their weapons, and when 
Mackenzie stepped forward and shook hands with each 
of them, one of them, trembling with fear, drew his 
knife from his sleeve and offered it to Mackenzie as 
as a mark of submission. 
These Indians had heard of white men before, but had 
never seen any, and were extremely curious as well 
as suspicious. They had but just reached here and 
had not yet made their camp, but on the discovery 
of Mackenzie's party, had run away, leaving their prop- 
erty behind. 
The explorer made a great effort to conciliate and 
to attach them to him, and during the day the whole 
party of Indians came in, three men, three women and 
seven or eight boys and girls. They were delighted 
with the beads which were given them, and seemed to 
enjoy the pemmican, their own provision consisting 
entirely of dried fish. They possessed some iron, 
which they said they obtained from people distant 
about eleven days' march, and that those people trav- 
eled for a month to reach the country of other tribes, 
who lived in houses and who extended their journeys 
to the Stinking Lake, or the ocean, where they traded 
with white people, who came in boats as large as 
islands. 
This account discouraged Mackenzie,, who feared that 
the end of his journey was far distant. However, he 
continued his efforts to lull the suspicions of the In- 
dians, and treated them and their children with espe- 
cial kindness. The next day, sitting about the fire and 
listening to the talk of the Indians and interpreters, 
some portion of which he could understand, he recog- 
nized that one of the Indians spoke of a great river 
flowing near the source of the one which they were 
ascending, and of portages leading to a small river, 
which discharged itself into the great river; and a little 
patient work led the Indian to describe what seemed 
a practicable route toward the ocean. 
These Indians were of low stature, not exceeding 
five feet six or seven inches, lean, round-faced, with 
pierced noses and loose hanging hair. They wore robes 
of the .skins of the beaver, the ground hog or the rein- 
deer, dressed with the hair on. Their leggings and 
moccasins were of dressed moose, elk or reindeer 
skin. The men wore collars of grizzly bear claws. 
Their cedar bows were six feet in length, and bore a 
short iron spike on one end, and so might be used as 
a spear or lance. They also carried lances, headed with 
iron or bone. Their knives and axes were of iron. 
FOHEST AND STREAM. 
They made lines of rawhide, which were fine and 
strong, while their nets and fishing lines were of willow 
bark and nettles. Their hooks were of bone set in 
wood, their kettles of basketry, their spoons of horn 
or wood. Their canoes were made of spruce bark. 
Among certain presents given Mackenzie before he 
parted from these people were a net made of nettles 
and "A White horn in the shape of a spoon, which re- 
sembles the horn of the T)uffalo of the Coppermine 
River" — by which undoubtedly is meant the niuskox, 
"but their description of the animal to which it be- 
longed does not answer to that." This horn was prob- 
ably that of a mountain sheep. 
With a guide engaged from these people Mackenzie 
pushed on, promising the Indians that he, would return 
in two months. The journey up the river was difficult, 
and the canoe by this time was in bad shape, so that 
a little jar caused it to leak, and repairs were fre- 
quent. At length they left the main stream, by the 
instruction of the guide, who declared that it began 
only a short distance away, having its origin in a great 
valley which was full of snow, the melting of which 
supplied the river. The branch which they went was 
only about ten yards broad and the one they entered 
still narrower. The current was slow, and the chan- 
nel so crooked that it was sometimes difficult to work 
the canoe. Soon they entered a small lake choked 
with driftwood, and camped at an old Indian camp. 
Beaver were abundant here, as were swans and geese, 
but_ they killed none of them, for fear of alarming any 
natives by the discharge of firearms. This Mackenzie 
regarded as the highest source of the Peace River. 
At the head of the lake they found a carry where 
there w,as a beaten path, about 800 yards long, to 
another small lake. From here two streams were seen 
tumbling down the rocks from the right and emptying 
into the lake that they had left, while two others, fall- 
ing from the opposite side, poured into the lake they 
were approaching. Now they had crossed the Conti- 
nental Divide, and instead of fighting with the current 
they would be going down the stream. We may imag- 
ine something of what Mackenzie's feelings must have 
been when he had surmounted the Divide and saw be- 
fore him a direct passage to the western ocean. But 
his troubles were by no means over. 
From the lake they passed into a small river, full of 
wood which had slipped down the mountain side, and 
which constantly oljstructed the way. At first there 
was scarcely water enough to float the canoe, but the 
water grew deeper, and toward evening they entered 
another lake. Its outlet was very swift, and they had 
difficulty in keeping the canoe from being driven against 
the trees which had fallen across it. 
_ Men sent ahead down the river to report on its prac- 
ticability came back with terrible stories of rapids, fallen 
trees and large stones. The guide was now very un- 
comfortable, and wished to return, but this, of course, 
was not permitted. 
After cari-ying around the nearest obstacles they 
pushed off again, but the force of the current was so 
great as to drive the canoe sideways down the river 
again and break her. Mackenzie and the men jumped 
overboard, but before they could straighten her course 
or stop her they came to deeper water, and were 
obliged to re-embark, one man being left behind in the 
river. Almost immediately they drove against a rock, 
which shattered the stern of the canoe, and now the 
vessel darted to the other side of the river and the bow 
was smashed as well as the stern. The foreman tried 
to check her by holding to branches of a tree, but was 
pulled out of the canoe and ashore. A moment later 
she struck rocks, which broke several large holes in the 
bottom, and in a moment everyone was overboard 
tyring to hold up the wreck. The strength of the cur- 
rent, however, forced them down the stream several 
hundred yards, but at last the vessel was guided into 
shallow water, and an eddy, and there stopped and 
dragged to shore. _ In a short time the man that they 
had left behind joined them, and they were now able to 
see what their condition was. They had lost some of 
their baggage and the whole of their stock of balls, but 
they still had some lead in the form of shot, from which 
bullets might be made. The men were frightened and 
anxious to get back, but a liberal dose of rum with a 
hearty meal and some encouraging words from their 
leader quieted their fears, and made them willing to go 
on. Men were sent off to look for bark with which 
to repair the canoe and also to look for the main river, 
which their guide told them was not far distant. These 
men came_ back with unsatisfactory reports, declaring 
that the river they were following was quite imprac- 
ticable, while they had not been able to see the other 
larger river. 
_ The next day the canoe having, been repaired, was 
lightened and a part of the men took her slowly down 
the river, while the remainder carried tlje baggage 
along the shore. It was evident that this stream'could 
not be followed much further, and again exploring par- 
ties were sent out to see if the great river could not 
be found. They saw it, but declared that to reach it 
would be very difficult. That night Mackenzie, as 
usual, sat up to watch the guide, so that he should not 
desert, but Mr. Mackay, who relieved him, permitted 
the man to slip awaj', and he was not seen again. The 
river that they were descending became more and more 
swift and rough and was, in fact, wholly impracticable. 
It" was now determined to cut a w^ay for the canoe 
across a neck of the land, and at eight o'clock that 
night they had the inexpressible satisfaction of finding 
themselves "on the bank of a navigable river on the 
western side of the first great range of mountains." 
_ Rain ^ the next morning postponed their start until 
eight o'clock, when they were on the water and, driven 
by a strong current, which, though, it carried them 
along swiftly, was perfectly safe, since the river seemed 
deep. The stream was constantly joined by other 
rivers, and after a time it broadened out and the cur- 
rent became slow, so that they proceeded with more 
deliberation. An Indian cabin of recent construction 
was seen on the shore, and toward night a smoke on 
the bank indicated natives. 
George Bird Grinnell. 
[to be continued.] 
881 
-*™™=j-..-T-;-rr^i.:-;~-,.Vrfiiiv^^ ■ - .- ■ „vi.i..,- ■.■■■nn,.ir I ric_ VJl T — II - -' ' i .-|- . >.w»^ 
Fly-Fishing for the Fair. 
From Recollections of Sport with a Companion. 
The best rod for a lady is a split-bamboo of the best 
quality, nine feet long, weighing four and a half to five 
ounces; a small click reel, holding 30 yards of fine 
enamelled waterproof line, six foot leaders or casting 
lines of silk worm gut, a good assortment of flies, 
selected with reference to the water to be fished, and 
a dozen snelled bait hooks of medium size. In stream 
fishing, the great difficulty has. been due to the neces- 
sity of wading the stream, if the best sport is to be 
secured. A short, light skirt can.be worn over 
waders, but after the spring sun has warmed the 
water, it is quite unnecessary to carry cumbrous 
waterproof wading gear. One of my girl friends wore 
stout shoes with hob-nails, heavy woolen stockings, 
with leggings, short skirt, jacket with roomy pockets, 
etc. If you are wise select a stiff, light hat that can 
be depended upon to stay where it is put. 
Lake fishing is very delightful, but girls with sport- 
ing blood in their veins enjoy far more the inde- 
pendence and freedom found in wading and fishing 
one of our big mountain streams, where the scene is 
constantly changing and every variety of water is 
found; the long, deep, placid pool, flecked with foam, 
with heavy rapid pouring in at the upper end; the 
stretches of quick water and rifts of greater or less 
depth, and the potholes among the big rocks, where 
the stream is a running torrent. A girl, not greatly 
above the average in health and strength, has begun a 
day dedicated to sport by breakfasting at 6 o'clock in 
the morning; then a tramp of four miles over the 
trail to reach a good and wild part of the river, where 
h has not been over-fished. On entering the water it 
feels a trifle cold, but this passes off quickly, and she 
has fished two miles up the stream without thinking 
of a chill; in fact, without thought of anything except 
the beautiful surroundings and trout, nearly a dozen 
of which lie in her creel. She would never think of 
lunch if we did not remind her of it. Then indeed she 
finds her appetite, and keenly enjoys the sandwiches 
while resting luxuriously upon a bed of warm sand. 
She is quite ready to begin again, and we retrace our 
steps, picking up a trout here and there, and talking 
of the chances of getting a real big one in the great 
pool far down the river, which we have decided upon 
for the late evening cast. 
The sun sinks behind the hills, great shadows 
stretch across the narrow valley; yet the light is still 
too strong on the favorite pool. Oh, we must wait a 
little longer. Now the slin has gone, the shadows 
deepen and the trout are rising here and there in a 
business like manner. She has taken a good fish, 
another, and another. Oh, just one more! The last 
trout is in the basket and we creep through the 
bushes looking for the trail. It is almost dark, but 
instinctively we know that the path is underfoot. We 
tramp onward in Indian file, and for a time chat 
brightly of the day's sport; but it grows very dark 
under the trees, and all our attention is concentrated 
on the trail. Finally, we reach the wood road, where 
we can walk side by side; the underbrush and forest 
are close on either hand. Suddenly there is a crash — • 
close, very close. She grasps my arm for a moment, 
then laughs. What is it? We do not know. It may 
have been a timid bear, a lynx, or a stupid porcupine. 
We think that a belated squirrel, a rabbit or a long- 
cared wood mouse could never have made so much noise. 
We like to imagine that it was some savage beast, 
though we know that there are none here. She is not 
afraid. Afraid? Puff! No, indeed. Shall we take 
the short cut? It will save nearly half an hour; but 
she will have to wade the stream where it is wide and 
deep, in the darkness. No matter; she is afraid of 
nothing now. We pass through a belt of pine (since 
sold for a large sum and fed to a hungry saw mill — 
pine is very valuable nowadays), then through fields 
and brush to the water. It looks black and sullen, 
but she takes my arm, and in we go. Soon we are 
over, and refreshed and dripping, seek the well-worn 
path. 
A few minutes' walk and the lights of the hotel 
shine before us. We enter, and in a moment are sur- 
rounded by an eager crowd. How very cool and 
clean these people are. The cry is: "What luck? 
What luck? How many trout have you caught?" 
A great dish is brought forth and the fish are heaped 
upon it. Twenty-nine. "Good! You have had fine 
sport for the month of August." "What time is it?" 
"Eight o'clock. Are you tired? Going to bed soon?" 
"No, indeed; I am going to the dance; but we will 
have supper first." 
She comes down in a few minutes transformed, 
radiantly bright. She feels no fatigue now. In fact, 
will not realize how tired she is until she goes to 
bed. It is a healthy tired, and no ill results. Not 
even when on one occasion, in her eagerness to hook 
a rising trout, she wades too deep, loses her footing 
and is submerged. No one ever caught cold when 
catching trout. This is true; but one must not allow 
the blood to stagnate by lying about. The exercise 
and excitement make the circulation excellent, and 
the sport makes for health only. Many of our women 
and girls love all that pertains to fly-fishing, and 
there is no reason why they should not enjoy it just 
as their fathers and brothers do. 
I intend to tell about the girl and the six-pounder, 
but my notes are already too lengthy. 
Theodore Gordon. 
Mrs. Simple Newleywed— "I want you to send around 
a gallon of midnight oil." 
Grocer — "Midnight oil? Never heard of it." 
Mrs. Simple Newleywed— "Why, I'm sure that's the 
kind my husband's mother said he always burned." — 
Brooklyn Life. 
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receive attention. We have no other office. 
