346 
TOYAGE OF THE POTOMAC. 
[May, 
around us kept continually changing with an almost bewildering 
velocity — like the almost magical variations of a kaleidoscope. 
No sameness — all variety. As far as the eye could reach, green 
fields appeared in endless succession; intersected in every direc- 
tion by small canals, up which, and far into the interior, might be 
seen the lofty masts and sails of the sampans, wending their 
way onward ; while small villages, each with a dense and bus- 
tling population, were momentarily passing before the eye like a 
moving diorama. Adjoining these might be seen large tracts of 
the beautiful and useful bamboo. The shady and rich foliage of 
the bananas and orange-trees, seemed to be ranged in hedges 
round the cultivated fields. The river appeared to be alive with 
boats ; some fishing — others passing up and down — across — in 
every direction. Here, too, were the duck-boats, from which 
neither the duckling nor their owners ever step foot on shore. 
On approaching Whampoa, the Sylph was overtaken by a 
thunder-gust ; and as she still continued her course on the still 
unruffled surface of the stream, a crowd was seen in a village on 
the right assembling at the sound of the gong, probably for the 
performance of some religious ceremony. They were soon left 
behind, for our little party's approach to Canton was now rapid 
indeed. In a moment, as it were, they found themselves in the 
midst of innumerable war-junks and merchant-proas, with ten 
thousand fancifully painted and gay streamers floating in the 
breeze. 
Myriads of boats, on each side, were moored in long and 
regular rows, forming channels, through which countless smaller 
boats were plying to and fro. The noise and bustle of business, 
combined with the low heavy hum of a million of human voices, 
dwelt with an eternal vibration on the ear. Here was a junk dis- 
charging her cargo— there, a raft of timber was gliding along — 
another crosses the Sylph's bows — everywhere are boats of all 
sizes and colours, and of every description — so numerous, that 
the surface of the water on which they rested could scarcely be 
seen between them. 
How wonderful the skill of their conductors ! The pilot who 
steered our little Sylph amid all this crowd, business, bustle, 
noise, confusion, and the din of a thousand gongs, seemed to 
thread the mazy labyrinth with the utmost coolness, ease, and 
