SOUTHERN ORCHARD PLANTINGS 
29 
Planting the Trees 
Much of your success with an orchard depends on how well the trees are 
planted. When your trees arrive, get them into the ground as quickly as 
possible. If you are not quite ready to plant, "heel them in," as shown by 
the illustration; but the trees should not be left in the trench until root-growth 
starts. Set them out as quickly as possible. 
Before planting, lay out the ground or orchard, allowing space enough so 
the trees will not crowd each other when fully grown. After laying out the 
grounds, the next thing is to dig the holes. Be sure to make them large enough. 
Many trees are injured by insufficient root room. 
If the soil is soft, you can dig with a spade. If there is an underlying strata 
of hard sub-soil or shale, it should be broken up with dynamite. The con- 
cussion of the explosive will shatter the hard soil, making it easy for the roots 
to go through and increasing its drainage facilities. Dynamite is opening up 
a great field for the planter and grower. Drive a hole about 30 inches deep 
into the hard soil, using an iron bar. Put in one half of a i)4 by 8-inch cartridge 
of dynamite. This will not throw the soil, but will shatter the hard earth. The 
Dup'ont Powder Company, of Wilmington, Delaware, issue a useful book 
about dynamite on the farm. Ask them for "The Farmer's Handbook of 
Explosives." 
After the holes are prepared, take the trees to the field, covering the roots 
with a wet blanket so the sun and air will not dry them out. Set the tree at 
about the same depth it stood in the nursery row. Hold the tree straight, 
shovel in some soil and see that it settles firmly about the roots, shaking the 
tree and pressing the soil with the feet or a tamper. Fill the hole even with 
the surface, but leave the top soil loose to act as a mulch and retain moisture. 
Ornamental trees can be set in practically the same way, and if care is 
taken in planting, you can be almost certain that every tree will live and 
grow. The holes for ornamentals must be large enough to accommodate the 
roots without doubling them up or cramping them in any way. Set each tree 
at the same depth it stood in the nursery. Now put fine soil about the roots, 
firming it with the feet or tamper and later settling it by pouring on a pail 
of water. Fill up the hole but do not pack. Mulch with well-rotted manure. 
Planted this way your trees should thrive. 
Evergreen trees should be planted 
the same way, taking great care that 
the roots are kept moist from the minute 
they are unpacked until they are in the 
ground. If the roots are wrapped in 
burlap, simply cut the strings and with 
a sharp knife slit the burlap in several 
places, and put the ball, burlap and 
all, in the hole. The burlap will .soon 
decay. The tree should be watered regu- 
larly for a few days after planting. 
Before setting out any growing 
thing, look carefully at the 
roots. If any have been 
bruised or broken in transit, 
take a sharp knife and trim 
the injured members. This 
does not hurt them in the 
least. Roses, however, re- 
quire a little different treat- 
ment. Complete details for 
planting, pruning, and care 
are given on page 13. 
TOP 
SOIL' 
Rant your trees this way and you will have little 
trouble 
