FROM EDINBURGH TO THE ANTARCTIC 
249 
we very rarely see these seals swimming with their heads 
above water like our northern seals. 1 To-night we 
had our first fricassee of the small penguins. They 
were stewed in curry ; the meat was black and un- 
pleasant to look at, but we voted it good. It tasted 
rather like jugged hare with a flavouring of oysters. It 
is a great thing for all hands that they are good eating, 
as it ensures us an endless supply of fresh meat. 
Monday evening. — Still beating about under sail in the 
open water, with plenty of whales blowing all round, but 
still no right whales. 
We are sailing in smooth water amongst scattered ice 
islands. It takes some careful steering to avoid running 
into them, and upsetting Nick's cups and saucers. At 
tea there was a crash, and the Balaena stopped and 
seemed to collapse like wicker-work. It was nothing — 
merely an acre of ice in the way, probably about twenty 
feet thick ; such trifles are of no consequence to a whaler. 
Some advice, however, was passed up the scuttle to the 
steersman. 
. . . Called on my friend' The Chief to-night. 'The 
Chief is the title of Mr. Broch, our first engineer, who lives 
below with the second engineer in the dark engine-room 
— a life apart from the sailors. We play dominoes down 
there by the light of a smoking miner's lamp. The 
temperature is pleasant and warm, and we discuss matters 
of high import. To-night we went right through Scotch 
1 During our long stay in the ice 1 saw the seals swimming with their 
heads above water only on four or five occasions. 
