192 OPERATIONS FOR SEPTEMBER. 
varieties of any of the favourite border-flowers by themselves, and fixing the name or equivalent 
mark to each lot. For when the varieties of such plants as Verbenas for instance, get mixed 
together^ it is impossible to make anything of planting a garden in spring. Two or three strong 
plants here and there in a bed otherwise planted with one colour, betrays much negligence, and 
when often repeated, diminishes the effect of a parterre. All the labels should be examined, as 
it is the best time now, whilst the flowers are present, to correct any misnomers that may have 
occurred. 
It will also be well to sow a few seeds of some choice annuals now, to flower early next spring 
in the greenhouse, or to be then turned out into some warm sheltered border. Towards the end 
of the month some of the hardier kinds may be sown in the open air ; they will soon appear 
above ground, and if the winter is not very severe, they will exist through it, and flower early. 
They rarely succeed in wet, retentive soils. On rockwork, or any well-drained piece of ground 
in an airy situation, they will generally do well. 
Means should be got in readiness for protecting any favourite flower, and the plots near the 
mansion, from the sudden slight frosts which sometimes occur at this season, and merely last for 
a night or two. Protection for a single night will sometimes prolong the beauty of the garden 
for a month or six weeks. There is a greater probability of preserving from frost in this way 
when the garden is upon a rising ground, than in one upon a level low site — the early frosts 
always being less frequent and less injurious on the former. Oiled calico or canvass, stretched 
upon slight framework, will be as convenient and economical as anything. 
Plants which have been turned out into the reserve-beds for the summer season, to hasten 
growth and form good specimens, should be taken up some time in the course of this month and 
potted : also any from the flower-garden which may be considered worth preserving. They 
should be shifted with as little injury to the roots as possible, instead of shearing off the points, as 
some do. It is not necessary, however, to retain all the earth about them ; on the contrary, it is 
better to shake it away from the extreme roots, so that the plants can be placed in pots of a size 
proportioned to the extent of the branches, and have an inch and a half or two inches of good 
fresh earth all round for the roots to strike into. When potted, they should be placed in a close 
shaded frame, and gently damped over the foliage every morning with a fine syringe, till the 
roots have taken fresh hold, and are capable of obtaining fluid enough to make good the increased 
transpiration from the leaves, which the removal of the shade and more exposure to fresh air 
would occasion. With this treatment they will experience little harm by the transplantation. 
To harden their growth they should then be kept cool and exposed to all the air and light that 
can be commanded. Syringing, however, must be continued, to prevent the foliage from drooping. 
When the first frost has struck the Scarlet Pelargoniums and spoiled their beauty, they 
should be taken up, all the shoots cut away to within an inch of the base, and the roots reduced 
till they will go into a five-inch pot. If they are then placed in a late vinery where the 
atmosphere is kept partially dry, they will soon begin to push out new shoots, and will make 
better plants in spring than those reared from cuttings. 
Much injury to specimen plants results from gardeners at this season crowding too many 
plants into the houses, and thereby preventing a perfect circulation of air amongst their branches 
and foliage. Every specimen should stand clear of its neighbours. The creepers on the roof 
should be trimmed now, to admit as much light as possible to the plants below them. 
The greenhouse, stove, and orchidaceous house, should be well ventilated, and freed from all 
shade. The plants may still be syringed in a morning, taking care not to wet the flowers. 
Decaying leaves will now be becoming plentiful, and should be daily removed, together with all 
flowers that are past their beauty. 
The tops of Chrysanthemums may still be taken off in the early part of the month to obtain 
dwarf plants to flower late. They should be taken from the plants growing in the open garden, 
planted singly in pots of light earth, and placed in a gentle bottom-heat. Large plants may be 
taken up from the borders, and treated as recommended for greenhouse specimen plants till they 
recover. Bulbs of the Japan and other lilies should be potted now, to flower at midsummer. 
Cape bulbs may be planted in pots, and set in a cool frame till they have formed roots. Tnsects 
must be kept down ; and all alterations in the houses completed at once, and made ready for the 
reception of the specimens in the reserve-ground. 
