OPERATIONS FOR MARCH. 
47 
Late pruning for shrubs in the open air, or, indeed, for any kind of shrubs that are cut only 
in winter, is objectionable on a somewhat similar principle to that above laid down with reference 
to potting. If the buds of any plant have begun to burst before it is pruned, the best vigour of 
the specimen will have to be cut away ; since, as the upper buds of a shoot begin first to extend 
themselves, and draw away the supply from those at a lower portion of it, and as it is these 
upper buds which are removed by pruning, the whole shoot and its development will be rendered 
weakly when they are taken away. Besides, pruning after the sap has begun to flow, causes a 
loss of vital power, in consequence of the quantity of sap that must escape from the wound. At 
least, this is the case with respect to a general pruning. It is very injudicious, therefore, to leave 
the pruning of either trees or shrubs to so late a part of the season that, as we have thus shown, 
it cannot be done without entailing mischief. More especially would these observations apply to 
Roses, which many cultivators refrain from touching till frosts have ceased, because the action of 
frost on the severed portion of their shoots destroys its tissue. But, while such a rule may be 
good in relation to some of the kinds, the point at which it becomes prejudicial is when the shoots 
get two or three inches in length ; and the time at which the pruner should interpose, is the 
commencement of any kind of general growth. Indeed, without pruning be done at this time, it 
had better not be attempted. 
In the propagation of tender perennials, the cultivator must remember that the sooner he gets 
the required number of plants ready for transplanting into the flower-beds, the earlier and finer 
will be their display in the summer. If autumnal propagation has been preferred, the losses 
sustained throughout the winter will have to be made good ; and where the increase has been left 
till spring, it should at once be commenced. Young plants that have stood in the cutting-pots all 
the winter, may now be potted off ; and those which were reared in autumn, should have their 
growing shoots stopped. Between the present and the time of planting, in fact, the stopping of 
the shoots will be the principal point to attend to ; for, unless this be regularly and systematically 
done, the plants will have to undergo a lengthened preparation after they have been put out in 
the beds, or they will always be straggling, unsightly, and deficient in flowers ; whereas, they 
ought to be prepared for immediately beginning to bloom when they are transplanted. 
It is probably needless to endeavour to support the statements that seed- sowing and ground- 
work, if protracted too long, will interfere materially with the beauty of the garden during 
summer. Seeds of all sorts of annuals should be put in forthwith ; and not as a general sowing, 
which is to suffice for the entire year, but as part of a series of sowings which is to be carried on 
while there is any chance of securing flowers in the autumn, and even with a view to an early 
blooming in the ensuing spring. Here is the great error regarding annuals. Most cultivators 
sow but once, and then in large quantities, the result being an undue profusion at one particular 
period, and only an accidental supply afterwards. A smaller quantity, sown at several separate 
times, would yield a successive and constant exhibition. 
Where it is possible, all ground-work should be completed this month. Wherever it is con- 
tinued after this, and turf has to be laid, walks put in order, flowers planted, &c,, there will 
usually be some blemish perceptible in it all the summer, unless the season be remarkably 
favourable. The carrying on of such opei'ations, too, after flowers make their appearance, is 
inconsistent with that finished keeping which should be maintained in every garden, except where 
the proprietor is absent and does not require it. 
The work to be done in plant-houses this month is multifarious and important. A large pro- 
portion of the plants will need re- potting, and others will want top-dressing. The roots of all 
should be examined, to see that they are in a healthy condition, and that the soil is adequately 
drained. When spring weather fairly sets in, the houses may be kept warmer, and the plants 
should have a larger a,mount of water. As soon as they start into vigorous growth, syringing 
may be freely practised, and where very bushy specimens are desired, the shoots must be kept 
properly stopped, according to the nature of the species. Camellias must now be carefully and 
regularly watered or they will shed their flower-buds without expanding them. Pelargoniums 
should be put in a house or frame with a temperature a little above that of a common greenhouse. 
Balsams, Cockscombs, &c., may be sown in a hot-bed frame. Dahlias can be started in a moist 
bottom- heat, and propagated as they form shoots. As fast as fit wood is developed on greenhouse 
and stove -shrubs, their propagation by cuttings can be carried on. And wherever there is a 
tendency to undue luxuriance, it should be kept in check by pruning, by watering sparingly, or by 
retaining the specimen in a comparatively small pot. 
