112 
CULTURE OF THE LOQUAT. 
lastly, seeds ; for although seedlings make fine plants, they are liable to deteriorate 
and become little worth, or, if good, they are several years before they arrive at a 
fruit-bearing state. 
For stocks, we recommend the common Whitethorn (Crataegus oxyacanihe), 
although the medlar, quince, mountain-ash, service, and many other hardy kinds 
answer very well ; whichever stocks are used, grafting must be performed when these 
stocks are not in a vigorous state of growth, and also before the Loquat begins to 
grow ; about the end of October answers remarkably well, if the plants from which 
the scions be taken are retarded a little for the purpose. If the Loquat be growing- 
out of doors grafting may readily be performed in February at the usual grafting 
season. For the different mode of grafting, see Vol I. page 93. 
When the scions are fixed and tied secure, a little moss maybe tied about them, 
and over this a small quantity of clay. When grafted, plunge the pots of stocks in 
a brisk hotbed where they will have a very moist heat, and in half the usual time 
the grafts will have grown, and may be unloosed, and the following season the 
plants will flower and bear fruit. 
6. Soil. The most proper soil for the plant in its fruiting state is a light rich 
loam, from the upper surface of a pasture where sheep are fed ; mix this with one- 
fourth very rotten horse-dung and one-fourth leaf-mould. These should be well 
mixed and broken together, and exposed to the influence of the sun some time 
before being used. But for young plants newly struck, or seedlings, one-fourth 
more leaf-mould must be added. 
7. Potting. The only proper time for potting a fruiting plant is early in 
October, just before the season for starting into growth ; for if performed at any 
other time, a check will be given which might either prevent the fruit setting, or 
cause it to fall after being set ; and indeed it sometimes entirely prevents it from 
flowering. 
In potting in October be very careful not to break the ball of earth too much, 
and damage the tender fibres as little as possible ; take off", however, from both the 
bottom, top, and sides, a little of the old earth, insert in a larger pot where it will 
have plenty of room, and afterwards set it in the stove. When by this mode the pots 
become too large and unsightly, which will be the case in about four years, take 
out the plants at the usual potting season, lessen the balls, and place them again in 
small pots, thus giving them a year's rest from fruiting; if one or two be treated 
thus every season, the plants will always appear fresh and young. 
8. Wintering. The usual season of this plant flowering in the stove is the end 
of December or beginning of January, the fruit ripens in April, and the wood 
becomes pretty hard by the middle of June ; this gives a clue to the most proper 
time for wintering, which should be from the end of June to the middle or end of 1 
October ; never later. During the season of hybernation, plunge the pots up to 
the rim under a north wall, where the plants will receive little or no sun and heat ; 
water, if they require it, which will be seldom, if not exposed to the sun. 
9. Pruning. The chief design in pruning is to get as much young wood as 
possible, the flowers being produced from the extremities of the young shoots. 
