A FEW SELECT CLIMBING STOVE PLANTS. 
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even later, and with from ten to thirty trusses of bloom expanded at the same 
time, is an object of very considerable interest and attraction. In the second and 
succeeding seasons the best system of management is to repot the plants early in 
January, removing as much of the old soil as you conveniently can, but not 
disturbing the roots too much. Eepot, using the same soil as before, and as you 
put the plant on the new trellis, remove about one-third of the length of each 
young shoot. This plant strikes freely by cuttings in a gentle heat at almost any 
season, and may also be increased by layers. As a warm conservatory climber 
planted out in light rich porous soil, and assisted occasionally in the growing season 
with weak clear manure water, it is a plant of first-rate excellence, and a fit 
companion for D. splendens. 
Gloriosa superba. This is a very high sounding name for an old but very mag- 
nificent plant, which has been in the country upwards of 150 years; but which, 
at the present time, is rarely seen, and then too frequently in very indifferent 
health. It belongs to the natural order LiliaccB, and, therefore, is a bulbous-rooted 
plant, annually making a new growth, and after blooming, dying down to the 
original tuber. The flowers, both in form and marking, are not less singular than 
some of the Orchids ; and indeed so unlike most of the Liliaceous plants as to be 
easily mistaken by the common observer for an Orchid. The plant is a native of 
the East Indies, where it grows in jungles, scrambling over the trees in the tropical 
forests, and frequently attaining an elevation of from twenty to fifty feet. In this 
country, however, it does not grow so rampantly, though we have had it, when planted 
out in a corner of the tan bed, grow the length of a plant stove thirty feet long. 
As a pot plant, it is of rather difficult management, refusing all control as to 
training during the early part of its growth, and refusing to bloom unless left almost 
in a state of nature until the first flower buds are of considerable size. Our system 
of management is to pot the bulbs about the first of February, in a compost 
consisting of leaf-mould, sandy peat, turfy loam, and silver sand, in about equal pro- 
portions, introducing lumps of charcoal of various sizes to secure the porosity of the 
soil. We generally put from two to five bulbs, being ruled by their size, in a twelve- 
sized pot, placing them about three inches below the surface, and covering them 
with very sandy soil. After this they are plunged in a bark bed with a brisk bottom- 
heat ; but no water is given until the shoots begin to break through the soil ; but 
after they are fairly started and the shoots grown to some length, manure water is 
regularly supplied. When the shoots are about four feet long, and before they become 
unruly, the plants are removed into No. 2 sized pots, using the same compost, 
with the addition of a little more loam to it. After this potting, the pots are plunged 
close to the back wall or end of the house, and the shoots are trained perpendicularly 
about a yard apart, and they are left uncontrolled, except in so far as their being 
prevented from becoming entangled. 
In this state they are left until the first flowers are open, when, a barrel trellis 
being fitted to the pot, the shoots are carefully taken down and trained, taking every 
