31 
CULTURE OF THE CAMELLIA. 
observed, water the soil in the pot once or twice with a weak solution of lime and 
water, which will speedily cause them to come out. 
10. Watering . From the time they are potted until they have finished their 
growth, give them a plentiful supply of water ; and during the summer, whilst out 
of doors, never allow the soil to become very dry. 
11. After they are potted in the spring, commence syringing them with clear 
water every morning, until both their shoots and buds are formed ; and this may be 
continued in dry weather, once a week throughout summer. 
12. Shading. Never allow Camellias to be fully exposed to the rays of a mid- 
day sun. Either place them in a shady situation, or throw a net or mat over the 
glass, for they invariably flourish and look better under this than any other 
treatment. 
13. Casting buds. The great reason why flower-buds very often fall off” 
without properly coming into bloom, is the too sudden changes in the temperature 
to which they are exposed ; for instance, when the buds are nearly ready to expand, 
a sudden heat causes them to push forth too rapidly ; and, on the contrary, a decrease 
of warmth at that time checks their growth and in both cases causes them to fall. 
It is astonishing how very easily the flower-buds, when nearly ready to expand, are 
acted upon by either heat or cold ; the variation of only a few degrees will con- 
siderably affect them : it is therefore absolutely necessary that great attention should 
be paid to them at that time, particularly if it be in the winter season ; in the spring, 
so much care is not required, as in general each succeeding day is a little warmer 
than its predecessor ; but in the winter months, when the weather is so changeable, 
and the plants are only excited by artificial means, the greatest care is requisite to 
keep them from advancing too much, and also not to allow the temperature to 
decrease, for fear of the flower-buds falling off. 
14. Winter quarters. About the end of September or beginning of October, 
or as soon as the weather begins to be very cold or wet, the plants must be taken 
into the house or frame, or any other cool but sheltered situation, where they must 
remain till it is wished to bring them into flower. 
15. When it is wished to bring any of them into flower, remove them into an 
increased temperature; this maybe done successively, which will greatly prolong the 
flowering season. The heat required to expand the blossom-buds is about 60 
degrees Fahr. by day, and 50 by night. If this be attended to, and the air never 
allowed to have a much greater or less heat, the plants will continue in flower for a 
great length of time. It should also be mentioned, that by this heat the plants are 
not excited to grow. 
The foregoing observations apply to plants that are to produce flowers at the 
usual season. If they are wanted to flower early in the autumn or winter, it is 
necessary to put them into a growing state at least a month earlier in the spring. 
They should be got out of doors as early as possible in June, when they will be 
ready to be brought into the green-house or conservatory to flower by the latter end 
of xAugust, and so a succession may be continued throughout the winter months, 
when but few plants cheer us by their expanding blossoms; and if moderate attention 
be paid, no plant is better calculated for the purpose than the Camellia. 
