CULTURE OF THE GENUS DIANTHUS. 
green with moss on the top ; when this is the case, stir up the soil carefully about 
half an inch deep, and sprinkle a little coarse sand upon it. This operation should 
be performed as often as is requisite. 
34. Propagating carnations by pipings is not to be depended upon, although 
some sorts grow well, yet rarely more than one half of the pipings that are put in 
ever strike root; but where the shoots are not long enough for laying, or are broken 
off by accident, piping is very necessary. 
35. Prepare a slight hot-bed in an eastern or western aspect, and as soon as the 
heat is moderate, lay on about six inches’ thickness of light mould, sifted finely. 
36. No piping should have less than two or three complete joints. Take off the 
cuttings horizontally just below the second or third joint, and merely cut off the 
leaves from the joint that is to be inserted into the soil, but leave the upper ones 
entire, both in pipings and layers. 
37. After giving the earth of the bed a moderate watering, place on a hand or 
bell-glass to mark the boundaries in which the pipings are to be planted. 
38. Plant the pipings not more than an inch distant from each other, and half 
an inch deep ; givfe them a gentle watering, to fix the soil closely about them, let 
them remain uncovered until the leaves are dry, then place on the glasses and press 
them gently down to prevent the admission of air. 
39. Give the cuttings a little morning sun, but always shade them when the 
heat becomes strong, which may be done by covering the glasses with mats. 
40. It is necessary after the first week that the glasses be occasionally taken off 
to admit air to the pipings ; but this must never be done when the sun is powerful, 
but either in cloudy weather or early in the morning. 
41. When the pipings are watered, never place the glasses over them again until 
the leaves are dry, and then not without first drying the glasses, or mildew will be 
the consequence ; and this must be continued until the pipings are well rooted, 
which will be in about six weeks, when the glasses may be removed altogether. 
42. When rooted, plant them in 48-sized pots, as recommended for layers, and 
place them in a frame for a while till they have made fresh roots, then expose them 
by degrees, and treat them like layers. 
43. Many insects are troublesome to this plant, as the aphis, or green fly, ear- 
wig, wireworm, grub, snail, and slug ; also a very small black insect which eats the 
colour off the petals. The earwig is the most dangerous, because it commonly 
secrets itself in the calyx, and bites off the petals at the lower ends, or claws, 
thereby causing them to fall out, and greatly disfigure the flower ; so that if any of 
the petals hang loose, or fall out, you may be certain that an earwig has been, or is 
still, there. The best remedy is to get a large saucer or feeder, and place a brick in 
the centre, and fill up the saucer with water : if the pot is then placed on the brick, 
neither earwig, snail, nor slug, will venture across. Also, set traps for them by plac- 
ing tobacco-pipe heads on the tops of sticks, and by examining them every morning, 
the number of depredators will soon be lessened. The aphis, or green fly, may be 
destroyed by using weak tobacco water, or sprinkling a small portion of Scotch snuff 
upon the infested parts early in the morning, whilst the dew is upon their leaves, 
VOL. i. — NO. III. L 
