72 
had been discovered hiding among some bags of cocoa in the hold* 
The surf boat had got not quite to the bar when the men heard the 
whistles blowing for them to come back; Smi tty was annoyed , as 
were the others who had come out to see friends off , for this addi- 
tional delay meant that they would not get back to shore, and to 
lunch, until three or later® 
The West Irmo is so much like the Kebar that it is easy to 
feel at home « Our cabin is small, but we are able t o squeeze all 
our belongings in and stow them away* The water is filthy, howwer; 
the merest trickle of mud runs into our wash basin* The dinner 
was almost inedible - a beef stew that tasted stale* There are 
no fresh vegetables on board except potatoes and onions* no cigar- 
ettes or matches, and only what meat could be picked up down the 
Coast * 
Our fellow travelers are two negro missionaries, a young 
colored boy, and a young colored man who is son of the Liberian 
Consul in New York, and who is said to be a well educated civil 
engineer, a reader of good literature, and a hot number at th% re 
Cotton Club - Jo Walker by name* The other white passengeife^s- a 
Mr. Eavey, an American gold miner who has been working in the the 
Gold Coast for eighteen months* and Mr. and Mrs, Murdoch of the 
United Africa Co. of Monrovia, a pair of attractive and witty Scots. 
Nobody's spirits were helped any by the table steward being 
drunk at dinner time, and u able t o serve the meal * 
July 19 — 
When we awoke this morning kskxrxscax we were in the harbor of 
Dakar , one of a number of ships anchored in the roadstead* The 
city curved around us, looking golden and tropical, with its 
big government buildings and church spires gleaming in the early 
morning light. It was nine o'clock before the naval authorities 
came aboard, and gave us permission to approach the town* Then 
we had to wait for the pilot to guide us through the mine-fields 
and take us .in by the narrow gate in the heavy :&bskk net spread 
across from breakwater to breakwater* We docked as before near 
the coal pile, but the wind was still, and no ship was coaling, 
so we were not bothered with coal dust as we were on the voyage 
out. In fact, as soon as we had been told, what we already 
expected, that no visitors were allowed ashore, I deicded to wash 
my hair while the ship was stationary and there was plenty of sun to 
dry it. 
The principal landmark of the harbor is the great bulk of 
the battleship Richelieu, whose gun turrets can be seen from 
way out in the harbor, sticking up like skyscrapers against the 
background of the town* We had heard two or three weeks ago that 
the British had sunk the Hichelieu, and were surprised to see it 
anchored here apparently undamaged. Big buoys floated around 
her, marking the line of the steel net that was drawn close to her 
dow* When we anchored almost next to her, however, we could see 
the repair crew at work, and could plainly make out the big black 
patches on her hull as well as the places where fresh red paint had 
covered some of the damage done . A number of the sailors were stil 
on board, and we heard bugles blowing, and even announcements over 
the loud speaker, from time to time during the day. 
