A NEW GOSPEL OF MYCOPHAGY. 
73 
Hardly less happy, unless there is some hidden satire beneath 
the names, are many of the esculent species. For instance Ag. 
dealbatus is the “ cream clot ” (not to be confounded with Devon- 
shire clotted cream), Ag. nebularis is the “ cheese-cap,” but the 
“ red milk ” and the “ sweet milk ” follow at a respectful distance. 
The general notion of “ spindle shanks ” certainly does not corre- 
spond with Agaricus fusipes ; and of Agaricus clavus, called- the “red 
nail,” it can scarcely be said that the 11 right nail was hit in the 
head ” when this diminutive little species was included with edible 
fungi as “a flavouring for sauces. ’ It would probably occupy a 
mycologist seven years to collect a sufficient number of specimens 
in the British Isles to flavour a basin of soup. Agaricus pudicus is 
called the “ Ingenue,” but this is hardly a popular name ; perhaps 
“ the naughty Agaric ” would have been better. It may be 
naughty, but it’s very nice. Agaricus albellus is the “ Muscat,” 
and Agaricus graveolens the “ False muscat,” but what 11 graveo- 
lens ? ” We should much like to be informed who has ever found 
Ag. graveolens (Fr.) in the British Isles, or Ag. ccesareus, or Poly- 
porus corylinus, or Polyporus tuberaster, all of them included as 
British species. 
There are in this curious book a great number of recipes for 
cooking fungi, doubtless sufficient to meet any emergency. We 
should require special instructions in cookingbefore wecould venture 
on the following very interesting species, which figure in the cata- 
logue of British Edible Fungi. These are Polyporus fomentarius 
(requiring good teeth), Polyporus squamosus (requiring good diges- 
tion), Agaricus ( Entoloma) sinuatus (would Worthington Smith 
endorse this recommendation?), Agaricus (Entoloma) rhodopolius 
(would require a strong stomach), Lactarius piperatus (not desirable 
too late at night), Lactarius torminosus (should be tried very early 
in the morning), Lactarius turpis (similar in odour, texture, and 
appearance to cow-dung, not very recent), and some others equally 
eligible and interesting — to an undertaker. 
Turning over the “ culinary receipts ” the reader will be shocked 
to find that the author, after all, has not the courage of his opinions, 
for, although in another part he repudiates the name of “ mush- 
room ” as too much “ vulgar,” lie uses it for the first two of his 
receipts, and after that it is changed to “ Pratelle ; ” for, be it 
known to all men, that Pratelle is the name predestined for all 
genuine mushrooms in the future. Pass on till No. 86 is reached, 
and then learn how “ to prepare urchins,” which is done by cutting 
the large ones into several pieces, but whether the cutting is to be 
done with a birch rod or a rattan cane does not transpire. “ In ten 
minutes take out the urchins and drain them thoroughly. Now 
dress them as in No. 48.” Poor urchins, “ take them up tenderly, 
dress them with care.” The same merciless Soyer afterwards 
makes game (p. 226) of “ Grisettes on Toast.” 
Finally there is a good joke anent Polyporus squamosus , which 
Mrs. Hussey supposed would have a resemblance to stewed saddle 
