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7 we traveled up a small feeder stream 
bed and took a narrow, uphill path that 
led to the hamlet where we would stay 
and trade. In single file the caravan 
wound its way up the steep path while 
we scrambled alongside to fight jams 
caused by irritated llamas. One would 
try to crowd ahead of the rest, while 
another, equally aggressive beast would 
take offense and begin to spit in the eyes 
and nip at the neck and ears of the 
upstart. Until we parted them, the 
whole trail would be blocked by the 
combatants. Once, when out of frustra- 
tion I used blows to separate a group, 
Sergio chastised me by casually remark- 
ing, “Gringo, one must have the pa- 
tience of Jesus Christ to travel with 
llamas.” Gradually the trail leveled off, 
and we made camp at dusk, exhausted. 
The next morning at dawn Sergio dis- 
covered that in the darkness he had 
spread his blankets over an ants’ nest. 
This hillside was to be our final camp, 
where the llamas would remain pas- 
tured. From then on, one man would 
stay to guard the camp while the others 
would visit clients and arrange trades. 
The burros would be used to transport 
cargo to and from the houses of the local 
residents. June 8 was the festival of 
Corpus Christi, and my companions 
spent the morning in celebration of our 
safe arrival. 
Sergio and Hilario arose before dawn 
and went uphill to a rock formation to 
await the morning sun. There, facing 
east, they made offerings to the moun- 
tain spirits in the morning solitude, 
burning llama lard, incense, herbs, and 
coca leaves. On their return they contin- 
ued their ritual libation of alcohol to the 
extent that Hilario was sent to buy an- 
other bottle. In our journey we had 
covered some 180 miles in twenty-two 
days, including seven rest days along the 
way. 
Scattered throughout the canyon we 
had reached were tiny hamlets, inter- 
spersed with farmland and isolated 
houses wherever the terrain was flat. 
Thombush and cactus grew in the dry 
grasslands that formed the mountain- 
sides, but where there were clearings 
and water, the soil was rich in vegeta- 
tion. People were at work in the fields 
trimming ears of corn off dried stalks or 
cutting other stalks to dry. Cattle used 
for plowing were tethered in fields of 
stubble. Near people’s homes were large 
trees on whose lower forks stalks of 
maize were stored for fodder. Next to 
the plots of maize were smaller ones of 
broad beans, peas, and squash. 
Before the development of motor 
70 
