FLOEICULTURE. 
267 
both in my own practice and that of several very successful cultivators : the latter end of 
May or the beginning of June is the best time to commence planting ; select for this 
purpose such as are rather short, thick, and inclined to swell — those that have stood too 
long in their pots, and are becoming stunted and hard, should be avoided if possible — but 
where collections are rather limited, and it becomes a matter of necessity that such should 
be brought into requisition, it would almost be wiser to repot them and place them in a 
brisk heat. I would here offer a suggestion for the consideration of all amateurs growing 
Dalilias ; never omit to repot young plants as soon as received from the nurseryman ; 4-inch 
pots are proper for this business, place them in a cold frame, keep them free (if you can) 
from all insect depredators and in a slowly growing state, giving all the air possible, weather 
permitting ; when the plants assume a dark green colour and are short jointed, amateurs 
may calculate that their collections are progressing favourably. Fearing the injurious 
effects of delay, when the stakes are really wanted, I advise that a stake be inserted at once ; 
secure the plant to it by means of a piece of bass not so tight but that plenty of room be 
given for the stem to swell, supply two smaller stakes at right angles to which also the 
plant should be attached, they will act as a preventive to mischief in bad weather, larger 
stakes must be added as the plant advances in growth ; be sure to keep the side branches 
well secured or the first high wind will teach you a lesson not easily forgotten. Experientia 
docet is an old maxim, but I see no reason for paying too dear for even such indelible 
lessons as those afforded by the stern teacher alluded to. As a climax to my remarks on 
this part of my subject, let me impress on the minds of my readers the urgent necessity 
which exists for tying the branches of their plants out, and not under any circumstances 
together in a bunch ; fine flowers can never be obtained by such means, sun and air are 
the life, I might almost say the very soul, of the Dahlia ; size of bloom, consisting of 
brilliancy of colour, and in some measure durability of form, is dependent on their 
influence ; to deprive the plant or any part of it, of such an extensively operative power, 
is to relinquish at once every hope of seeing a good flower. 
Thinning. — I cannot lay down any definite rule on this head, but presuming a hint or 
two might be useful, I submit the following : — Never allow your plants to throw a number 
of small branches, and then use the knife mercilessly, removing them at once — this kind 
of sweeping operation is highly detrimental to floral life — it is much better to cut away 
any superfluous shoots as the plant progresses, and here some discrimination and knowledge 
of the subject to be operated upon must be brought into requisition — all varieties will not 
submit to the same amount of thinning — the large and coarse must be spared, while those 
that require increasing in size should be thinned. The constant inspection of these flowers 
in a growing state will soon supply all the information desired in the matter. 
Disbudding. — The foregoing observations are applicable, or nearly so, to this part of 
the Dahlia culture. When you desire to reduce a flower in size, defer it to a later period ; 
it induces a more compact flower, smaller petals, and generally improves the form. 
Shading. — If I mistake not, more mischief is inflicted on the amateur by his own over 
anxiety in this respect than from any other cause. Idleness is said to be a great evil, and 
truly so ; but the work an amateur gives himself in connection with shading his blooms, 
proves a much greater. It arises in many cases from beginning to shade long before it is 
requisite, which terminates in shading out of character many light varieties, and rendering 
all kinds tender, and less able to endure travelling to places of exhibition. Yellow Dahlias 
it is better to shade rather early, in order to produce them in clear and distinct condition, 
likewise some light varieties. While, on the other hand, such as have slight tips, or 
markings, should be postponed, or the chances are that the face of the bloom would be 
without its distinguishing characteristic. The time required to shade a bloom for exhi- 
bition is dependent on the weather. From three to five days would be sufficient for an 
early show, under ordinary circumstances, but as the season advances it would be found 
desirable to extend the time. Fancy has been busy in suggesting different kinds of shades 
for this business ; their respective average of utility I have not space to enter upon, let it 
be sufficient for my purpose to mention such as have been proved to be most serviceable, — 
the tin shade painted white, the wire skeleton covered with white holland, and the inverted 
