FLORICULTURE. 
359 
several years old, peat that contains plenty of vegetable fibre, and silver sand, are the prin- 
cipal ingredients. Presuming most of my readers to be in possession of such matters, I 
shall at once commence the culture of the flowers from the time they are usually sent out 
by nurserymen, which is most commonly in 4-inch pots. They should at once be shifted 
into 6-inch size, using plenty of crocks. The compost should consist of about two-thirds 
turfy loam, as above alluded to. 
It is not requisite at this stage of the proceedings to sift the compost ; it will be 
found sufficient to pick out the stones, and rub down any lumps that may appear. Making 
up the remaining third with peat and silver sand, induce their growth freely, till you find 
the pots well filled with roots ; then allow them repose, giving as little water as possible, 
but an abundance of air ; pinch off the tops of the shoots, leaving about three or four 
eyes to break from. About the beginning of February shift them into eight-inch pots, 
using rather fewer crocks, but still sufficient to ensure abundant drainage ; let the soil be 
constituted of three-fourths turfy loam, the remainder silver sand, cow-dung, and bone 
dust ; take the ball of earth, from which a little of the outside has been rubbed, 
and place it in the pot low enough to bury a portion of the stem, when it is too long. 
Support and train out the leading shoots to short sticks, and water with a fine rose : keep 
them close to encourage growth, giving them air whenever an opportunity offers for so 
doing in safety. Protection is requisite from cold easterly winds, which are certain to 
injure the appearance of the foliage, if they do no further mischief; they are, consequently, 
better excluded. I invariably advise fire-heat being withheld as much as possible ; in 
even severe weather, the fire-heat at night should never exceed 45° : pans of water placed 
on the pipes or flues for evaporation, will be found highly serviceable to the welfare 
of these plants. In April arrangements should be made for blooming, the most 
intensely interesting time for the cultivator ; the blooming shoots, by this time, should be 
attached to sticks of the proper length, that is, not higher than the base of the flower- 
stalk ; the amateur bearing in mind the recommendation, that whatever resources art may 
open to the florist, they are best kept in the back-ground, allowing Nature to engross the 
first consideration. Effects, not causes, are for the public eye ; and however justifiable 
adorning Nature may be, it will be found more consonant to good taste to keep the means 
by which such matters are brought about as far removed from observation as possible. 
The amateur flower-stage should appear clothed, not dressed : there is a wide difference in 
the signification of these apparently synonymous terms. To continue my subject. The 
arrangements of the plants on the stage when in bloom is a material point, and 
deserving of the greatest attention, as the general effect is much increased or deteriorated 
thereby. I therefore suggest the policy of placing such flowers at a distance as are 
striking and showy, contrasting them by neighbours of directly opposite colours, reserving 
delicate and finely propertied varieties for closer inspection. As a means of preserving 
flowers in bloom, bees must be carefully excluded : muslin blinds answer well for this 
purpose, as the light and air by such means can be freely admitted, while the whole insect 
tribe can be kept out. Cuttings of favourite sorts should be taken as early in autumn as 
convenient, as they strike more readily, and make finer plants. The general cutting down 
of the plants should take place in July. They should be allowed to become quite ''dry, 
and then cut close, leaving only sufficient eyes to break from. The greenhouse is the 
best place for them, and here let them have plenty of air till the wounds are healed, then 
water them, and keep them close to induce them to break freeJy ; this they will quickly 
do, and when the new shoots have lengthened to about an inch or so, let them again 
become dry, shake them out of the old soil, and cut the roots totally back, and re-pot them 
into six-inch pots ; plunge them in gentle bottom heat, when they are to be placed under 
the course of treatment recommended for young plants. There is little or no difficulty in 
striking cuttings of Pelargoniums, as in most seasons they will strike under hand-glasses 
in a properly prepared border, at all times in frames with a little bottom heat. They 
will root in about three weeks, when they should be potted singly into small-sized pots, 
and when thoroughly rooted, shifted into four-inch pots, at the time when my suggestions 
for the growth of these plants is supposed to commence. It has been said by a celebrated 
