MISCELLANEOUS. 
157 
thinly scattered over the rough surface of the 
soil, which must be immediately covered with a 
bell-glass large enough to fit down close within the 
pot rim. The pots should be at once set in feeders 
kept constantly filled with water, and placed either 
in frames or in the fern-house, according to the 
kinds sown. It is never advisable to water the 
surface of the soil after the spores are sown ; and it 
is well to roast the soil employed, in order to kill 
the germs of any other plants that may be con- 
tained in it. For soil, a good general compost 
may be formed of equal parts of fibrous heath-soil, 
broken up into lumps as large as Walnuts (or 
smaller for small pots), and perfectly decayed leaf- 
mould, with a portion of clean gritty sand, espe- 
cially for potting the more delicate kinds ; the 
more robust growers are benefited by a small por- 
tion of light loam being added to the above com- 
post. In potting, good drainage is essential, and 
the crown of each plant should stand about level 
with the pot rim. The temperature which the 
tropical species require is about 70° in the growing 
season, decreased to 60° in winter, and lowered at 
night to 55° or 50°. The species which are natives 
of temperate climates require a day temperature, 
ranging from 40° to 60° ; permanently lower in 
winter than in summer, and, in all cases, lower by 
night than by day; from 35° to 40° will be a 
sufficient night temperature. The hardy and half- 
hardy species may be placed in a frame kept 
moderately close at all times, and, in winter, 
covered at night with mats. The hardy species do 
not absolutely need this protection, but the shelter 
thus afforded is favourable to their development. 
Shade, during bright sunny weather, is decidedly 
advantageous to these plants. Ferns should never 
be suffered to become dry ; when growing, they 
require a free supply of water at the roots, and fre- 
quent sprinkling overhead; but when at rest, a 
moderate quantity is sufficient. Soft water should 
always be used. — Jour. Hort. Soc., iv. 90. 
The Moss Rose. The history of the Moss Rose 
is wrapped in obscurity. It was first introduced 
to England from Holland ; and it is generally be- 
lieved that it was a sport from the Provence Rose ; 
that it was not originated by seed, as most new 
varieties are, but by a branch of the Provence 
Rose sporting, as it is termed, — that is, producing 
flowers differing in character and habit from others 
of its own nature, — flowers enveloped in moss. 
Some tribes of plants are more disposed to sport 
than others; and the Provence and Moss Roses 
possess this peculiar property to a remarkable 
degree. I have seen the White Moss bearing at 
the same time, and on the same plant, red, white, 
and variegated flowers. I have also seen the Per- 
petual Moss, whose flowers should be white, pro- 
duce pink flowers, entirely destitute of moss. I 
am informed, and think it probable, that the Moss 
Unique was first obtained in this manner. A 
branch of the White Provence Rose produced 
flowers enveloped in moss; the branch was pro- 
pagated from, and the plants so propagated pro- 
duced flowers retaining their mossy characteristic. 
Like many others, the group now before us 
has been much improved of late years : many of 
the old varieties, formerly so much esteemed, 
though possessed of but few petals, and almost 
destitute of form and fragrance, are now quietly 
departing to give place to more perfect kinds. A 
remarkable illustration of the effects of hybridising 
is met with here. There have been introduced 
lately some Moss Roses of the most vigorous growth, 
with shining foliage ; and others bearing flowers 
in the autumn. The former have been produced 
by crossing the Moss with the Hybrid Chinese 
Roses, or vice versa, the latter, by bringing to- 
gether the Moss and Perpetual. Moss Roses re- 
quire high cultivation ; some are of delicate growth, 
and will only flourish in a kindly soil ; others are 
very hardy ; but all, whether hardy or delicate, 
delight in a rich soil. But few of the Moss Roses 
are well adapted for standards : it is true that 
many will exist as such, but they merely suffer 
existence ; they cannot be said to flourish. The 
Moss should be grown either on their own roots, 
or budded on short stems (the latter is pre- 
ferable in most cases), and should be closely pruned. 
Exceptions, however, may be made to this rule. 
If we except the common Moss, we do not con- 
sider this group well suited either for pot-culture 
or for forcing. Their distinctness, however, stands 
forth prominently in their favour ; and in large 
collections it is worth while to introduce a few, for 
the sake of variety. The flower-garden or the 
rosarium is their proper place; and we think a 
greater space should be allotted them there than 
is usually done. No Roses can be more interest- 
ing ; certainly none are more beautiful. It is true 
they do not thrive well in all soils. I received a 
letter last year from a distinguished amateur, in 
which he says, “ I will look at none but hardy 
Moss, for the majority do not thrive well here. 
The situation is eminently favourable for Roses, 
but the soil is rather cold and heavy.” This un- 
riddles the mystery. All the Moss Roses should 
be planted in a tolerably dry, warm, and rich soil, 
with an airy exposition, and the result is sure 
to be satisfactory. Where such is unattainable, 
the hardiest only should be cultivated, and these 
budded on the Dog Rose. 
On such soils as I have just recommended, the 
varieties termed “vigorous” may be fashioned into 
“ Pillar Roses,” and they are indeed unique when 
cultivated in this manner. Some of our readers 
may perhaps doubt whether Moss Roses are suited 
for this purpose ; and writers have too often spoken 
of them collectively, as being of dwarf and delicate 
growth. What will such say to a pillar formed 
with the old Red Moss reaching to the height of 
fifteen feet 1 That such a one exists I can confi- 
dently assert, for I measured the plant last autumn 
in company with the owner, who assured me he 
could have trained it higher, but that he was un- 
able to obtain poles to support it. It cannot be 
said that the pillar is well furnished with branches 
the whole height ; but I feel confident that many 
varieties will form handsome, well-furnished pillars 
six or eight feet high. Surely much more is not 
required. Ten feet is perhaps the maximum of 
height desirable even for a Pillar Rose. Beyond 
this, not only are the best flowers out of sight, but 
there is infinite trouble in protecting the plants 
from the wind, in pruning, &c. 
