232 
METHOD OF TREATING LUCULIA GRATISSIMA. 
concluded that, to have good specimens, a fresh stock of young plants is necessary 
every year, and on that supposition have discarded the old ones. 
Now, although it is undoubtedly highly desirable to have a number of young 
plants to flower as dwarf specimens, it is quite as much, if not more desirable, to 
have large bushy specimens furnished with branches to the surface of the pots ; and 
this can only be done by preserving the old plants. 
The great error in their management is the fear of using the knife freely. It 
is only by pruning, and severe pruning, that the naturally straggling character of 
the old plants can be overcome, and reduced to the desired bushiness. Instead of 
allowing the uppermost buds on the preceding summers growth to furnish the 
shoots for the succeeding season, the old branches should be cut away to within an 
inch or two of their base. Thus, two or three, or perhaps four branches, will be 
obtained from each near the point from which only one or two sprang the preceding 
year ; consequently, the number of shoots will be yearly increasing, and instead 
of becoming naked at the base, and of a scattered growth, the bushiness will be 
continually augmented. 
This character, however, may be carried to excess, even with the Luculia ; for 
if too many shoots are permitted to form, they will prevent one another from 
acquiring that degree of vigour which is necessary to produce a good head of 
bloom. Besides, the large size of the foliage demands a proportionate space for 
their exposure to light, and, if they are crowded, the loss of the interior and lower 
ones will be the inevitable result. 
Another error which necessarily ensues from permitting the uppermost buds to 
remain, is, that as they have mostly begun to grow before the flowers are withered, 
the plants are deprived of their season of repose, and kept in a continual state of 
excitement. But, when pruned back to the lower buds, they may be placed in a 
cool place, and left without any water till the beginning or middle of February. 
Sometimes before they are again excited, a quantity of the earth should 
be shaken out from the roots, and fresh compost supplied. A rich loam, 
full of decaying vegetable fibre, and a third part of leaf-mould, makes an excellent 
mixture for them. When good peat can be easily procured, a portion may 
be added, but it is by no means indispensable. 
A great mistake is committed by putting in heat immediately after they are 
potted. It is quite necessary to leave them a week or two in a cool place, that the 
buds may acquire additional vigour, and the plant be storing up sap to feed them 
when they are once more wanted to grow. Moreover, some of the roots will 
certainly be damaged in clearing them of the old earth and repotting, and if the 
plants are removed too suddenly to a high temperature, the buds will begin 
growing before the roots are in a condition to convey a sufficiency of nourishment 
to support them. 
A pit, where a temperature of from 60° to 70° can be maintained — according 
to the external weather and the advancement of the season, together with a pro- 
