ROSES 
HOW TO GROW THEM 
SITUATION.— Good Roses may be grown in almost any soil and position; but if the highest 
quality is desired, it is necessary to select an open, sunny position, sheltered from north winds, and 
clear of all roots of trees and shrubs. 
PREPARATION OF THE BEDS.— Roses will grow and give good returns in any fertile, well- 
drained ground; but it is worth while to use some care in the preparation of the beds, as the general 
health of the plants, quantity and quality of bloom usually more than repays the extra care expended 
on this detail. The best soil for Roses is sod from an old pasture and well rotted cow manure. Dig 
out the bed to a depth of two to three feet, and. if drainage is imperfect, it must be provided for by 
putting six inches to a foot of broken stones, cinders, or any rough material in the bottom. Fill in 
with a mixture of soil and manure as above. It is best to make the beds some time In advance of 
planting, to allow time for settling. After the soil is settled, it should be about an inch below the 
level of the adjacent surface; make the beds not over three and a half feet wide, which enables you 
to pick the blooms without stepping on the bed. 
PLANTING AND SUMMER CARE.— The ideal time to plant is in the spring, just after danger 
from frost is past. 
Tea and Hybrid Tea varieties can be set 18 inches apart, Hybrid Perpetuals two feet apart, and 
both eight inches from the edge of the beds. When the plants are supplied in pots, they should 
be set so that the ball of earth is about two and one-half inches below the level of the ground. Firm 
the soil well around the roots, and give a thorough watering if the soil is dry. Throughout the sum- 
mer the surface of the bed should be cultivated weekly. If this is done watering will be unnecessary. 
There is no better mulch than dry, loose soil. 
PRUNING.— About the - end of October, it is well to cut back to about three feet all the canes of 
the strong-growing sorts. This prevents them from being whipped by the winter winds, which, 
unless staked, would loosen and break the tender feeding roots. The principal pruning should be 
done in the spring, beginning with the Hybrid 1 erpetuals in March. 
If quantity of bloom for garden effect is the object sought, then four or five canes may be left 
three feet in length, and the very old or weak growth cut away entirely. After the plants are 
through blooming, the canes should be shortened back at least one-half to enable the plants to make 
a strong growth for the next season of bloom. 
If quality is desired, all weak growth should be removed, and the remaining canes cut back in 
proportion to their development, the weaker ones to about four inches from the root, and stronger 
ones eight to nine inches. All canes should be cut about a quarter of an inch above an outside bud. 
By doing this, the plant will grow in an open head, as the buds usually grow in whatever direction 
they first take. Roses, pruned in this way, require no staking up, and will need no summer prun- 
ing, the cutting of the flowers with good stems being sufficient. 
Hybrid Tea and Tea sorts are best not pruned until they show evidence of growth, indicated by 
the buds begining to swell. By that time dead or unhealthy wood is readily detected, making it easy 
to see what should be cut away and what should be retained. They do not need such severe pruning 
as that described for the Hybrid Perpetuals, and all wood that looks promising may be left on. 
Climbing Roses require no pruning beyond cutting out the very old or dead wood and the short- 
ening of the laterals and canes to make the growth conform to the space to be covered. 
WINTER PROTECTION.— In the latitude of Philadelphia a covering of three or four inches of 
manure or leaves over the entire bed is sufficient. In colder latitudes, draw the leaves up around the 
stems six or eight inches higher, and in very cold places earth them up and protect with corn stalks 
or evergreen boughs. For Tea Roses a good plan U to put a temporary fence of twelve-inch chicken 
wire netting around the bed, filling in loosely with leaves, with a little earth or some branches over 
to prevent them from blowing away. 
ENEMIES. — When grown under favorable conditions, Roses are not so apt to be attacked by in- 
sect pests and other troubles as they are if half starved and otherwise neglected. Among the most 
troublesome pests are the Rose Beetles. Hand-picking seems to be the only remedy for this. Slugs, 
which eat away the leaves are readily destroyed by a decoction of Powdered White Hellebore (two 
tablespoonfuls to a bucket of boiling water) applied, when cool, with a whisk broom or any sprayer 
that will reach the under side of the leaves. The green fly or "Aphis” is quickly removed with any 
of the tobacco solutions or \\ hale Oil Soap, or a mixture of both. Powdered Sulphur is the best 
remedy for mildew, which should be dusted on when the plants are wet with dew. 
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