July 22, 1905.] 
FOREST AND STREAM 
and knocked themselves off. The salmon likewise 
often exhibit remarkable gymnastics, and once while 
fishing we had one leap into the boat and land dex- 
terously in the bait pail. The trout I had on now, 
however, was less obstreperous and sulked a good deal, 
keeping down, but waking up if he chanced to observe 
the approaching net, until at length I succeeded in 
tiring him out. After this we caught one or two more, 
and then reeled up and put our rods aside, thoroughly 
content with the afternoon’s catch, which numbered 
just twenty fish. 
How hallowed are those moments that precede the 
setting of the sun! As we bent our steps homeward 
through the quiet woods, I saw its red-gold orb glint- 
ing between the trees and illumining their delicate 
leaves with a mellowed brilliancy of declining dj»y. The 
beams, moreover, have a clarity and youthfulness that 
tells of the year’s nativity. At this hour there is also 
a peace, a breathless quietude which makes the tumult 
and struggle of existence seem far removed, and en- 
folds us in a similar tranquillity. But, who can interpret 
the Spirit of Solitude in the wilderness? It is subtle 
and overpowering, for as it starves with a sense of 
unutterable loneliness, so does it replenish with infinite 
nutriment, and make absolute the bond of natural affin- 
ity to the earth’s creations. 
“O solitude! if I must with thee dwell, 
Let it not be among the jumbled heap 
Of murky buildings; climb with me the steep, 
Nature’s observatory — whence the dell. 
In flowery slopes, its river’s crystal swell. 
May seem a span; let me thy vigils keep 
’Mongst boughs pavilion’d, where the deer’s swift leap 
Startles the wild bee from the foxglove bell. 
But though I’ll gladly trace these scenes with thee. 
Yet sweet the converse of an innocent mind. 
Whose words are images of thoughts refined. 
Is my soul’s pleasure; and it sure must be 
Almost the highest bliss of human kind. 
When to thy haunts two kindred spirits flee.” 
Paulina Brandreth. 
Trails of the Pathfinders.— XXXII. 
Fremoct — V. 
{Concluded from Page 48.) * 
New Year’s Day found them traveling through the 
lesert, over a rough, sandy road. The next day they 
•cached a field of hot springs, the vapor from which 
vas visible a long way off. Fremont was growing 
ineasy. He had very little idea where he was. There 
appeared to be no game in the country, except hares, 
hough occasional signs were seen of sheep and ante- 
ope. His animals had begun to die, and he felt the 
lecessity of proceeding with great caution. Because 
,'f the uncertainty of water for his animals, he formed 
plan of exploring the country in . advance each day, 
nd leaving the main party behind. On Jan. lo, a beau- 
iful lake, some twenty miles broad, was seen from the 
op of a ridge, and they proceeded toward it. On the 
vay, herds of mountain sheep were seen on the hills, 
t’here they came on a little stream about a miles from 
he margin of the lake. They found a broad Indian 
rail following the shores of the lake to the southward, 
'his was followed for a short distance, and then as- 
ended another precipice, against which the water 
lashed below, and it was very difficult to get the 
:owitzer along this trail. Mountain sheep in numbers, 
nd ducks, and some fish were seen, and the party 
lassed the pyramid which rises out of the lake and 
fives it its name. The last of the cattle driven from 
he Dalles was killed for food. On Jan. 15 a few 
ndians made their appearance about the camp, and 
me of them was persuaded to come into it. It was 
lifficult to communicate with him; but from what he 
aid, it was inferred that at the end of the lake was a 
iver, which subsequent investigation showed, ran into 
he lake, which has no outlet. Here, to the great ,de- 
ght of the white men, the Indians brought in fish to 
-•ade. Fremont calls them salmon te-sut, and says thai 
hey were from two to four feet in length. They ap- 
eared to form the chief food of these Indians, who, 
'remont says, hold the fishery in exclusive possession, 
nd who are different from the “Digger” Indians so fre- 
uently spoken of in crossing the desert. It appeared that 
lese Indians were in communication either with the 
hites or with other Indians knowing the whites, for thej 
ossessed some articles of civilized manufacture. ■ 
The party now followed up the stream running into 
'yramid Lake, traveling along toward the Sierra 
levada Mountains. They were on an Indian trail, 
nd hoped soon to find the Buenaventura River, foi 
'hich they had been looking. Columns of smoke ris- 
ig over the country at intervals made them sure that 
le Indians were notifying each other that strangers 
ad come into the country. Their animals were grow- 
ig thin and weak; their feet were much worn away by 
le rocks, and many of them were lame. Fremont de- 
ided, therefore, that he must abandon his course to 
le eastward, and must cross the mountains into the 
alley of the Sacramento River as soon as possible. 
Keeping on southward along the mountains, they 
rossed streams issuing from them which tempted them 
D try for a pass; but the heavy snows which appeared 
3 lie on the mountains induced the leader to keep on 
irther southward. Jan. 24 an Indian came into the 
amp, and offered the strangers a little bag of pine 
uts, which they purchased from him. They also gave 
im some presents; and as nearly as they could under- 
rand his signs, he promised to conduct them to the 
pening of a pass, of which he knew. From here on 
ley constantly saw Indians, all of whom traded pine 
uts to them, and all were armed with' bows and stone- 
ointed arrows. The level of the country appeared to 
e growing higher, and the snow grew deeper. They 
ut one of their guides on a horse, but he was evi- 
ently unacquainted with the animal, and did not even 
now how to guide it. Soon they entered the range, 
nd having left the desert country, found a country 
'ell timbered, and which appeared to produce con- 
. 
siderable game. They climbed to the head of the 
stream, passed over^ a ridge, and saw from the summit 
a sunless country where there was evidently grass. 
Here the Indians were wearing snowshoes, and ac- 
companied the party, running around them, and swiftly 
and easily traveling over the snow. They appeared to 
have no idea of the power of firearms, and thought 
themselves perfectly safe, so long as they kept out of 
arm’s reach. 
Descending on the head of this next stream, Fre- 
mont learned, before lie had gone very far, that this 
was merely the head of another stream running east- 
ward into the Great Basin, and that they had still to 
cross a great ridge before they could reach Pacific 
waters. 
The Indians here had heard of a party of twelve 
white men, who two years before had ascended the 
river and crossed to the other side; but this was done 
when it was summer time, and there was little or fiio 
snow to oppose the passage; and at present the In- 
dians declared it could not be done. Nevertheless, they 
agreed to furnish a guide to take the whites as far as 
possible. Provisions were now getting low, and con- 
sisted chiefly of peas, a little flour, some coffee, and a 
quantity of sugar. It was on this day, Jan. 29, that the 
howitzer, which had been dragged so far, was finally 
abandoned. On Jan. 31 they continued to climb the 
mountains among the snow. Indians kept visiting 
them in greater and greater numbers, and from all 
most discouraging accounts were heard of the pos- 
sibility of crossing the range. An old man told them 
that if they could break through the snow at the end 
of three days they would come upon grass, which 
would be about six inches high; and here Fremont de- 
cided to attempt the passage, and to try to reach 
Sutter’s ranch, on the Sacramento. Preparations were 
made, therefore, to face the cold of the heights, and 
clothing was repaired and put in order, and a new 
guide was engaged, who was also fitted out with special 
reference to the hardships likely to be met with. A 
dog that had been with them for some little time was 
killed, and this, with a few rabbits purchased from 
the Indians, gave the party a strengthening meal. 
When they started, the snow soon became so deep 
that it was absolutely necessary that a road should be 
broken for the animals. This was done in systematic 
fashion, and for several days they advanced by very 
short marches, but without meeting any obstacles 
greater than the depth of the snow. Sometimes the 
lack of feed at the end of the day’s march would 
render it necessary to send back the animals to feed 
at some point on the trail just passed over, where 
there was good pasture. Two or three days of this 
hard work was very discouraging. However, Fre- 
mont’s energy never faltered. He and Carson and 
Fitzpatrick, on snowshoes, went ahead, reconnoiter- 
ing in all directions, and trying to pick out a good 
road; and on Feb. 6 they reached a peak from which 
they saw the valley of the Sacramento; and Carson 
recognized various natural features which he had not 
seen for fifteen years. 
The difficulties of travel for the horses was so great, 
and the hillsides so steep, that many of the animals 
found the greatest difficulty in getting along them- 
selves, and could not carry their loads. Sledges were 
made, therefore, on which the men drew the baggage 
over the snow; but of course this made progress very 
slow indeed. The hunters went out to look for game, 
but found none. On the Qth it began to snow, and 
the wind and snow filled up the trad that had already 
been beaten, so that it was again impossible for the 
horses to go along. Fremont ordered Mr. Fitzpatrick 
to make mauls, and to open and beat a road through 
the snow, by which the animals could be brought 
along. Meat, which for some time had been un- 
known in the diet of the travelers, was now supplied 
by the flesh of another dog, and that of a mule. 
Happily, during all this time the weather had not 
been very cold; though at night the thermometer some- 
times fell nearly to zero, the days were uncommonly 
warm, and the snow melted fast under the sun. While 
this relieved them of suffering, it made travel still 
more laborious. 
It was on Feb. 20 that they camped with the animals 
that were left, and with all the material of the camp, 
on the summit of a pass in the dividing ridge, about a 
thousand miles from the Dalles, whence they had 
started. The prospects of the descent were not prom- 
ising. Before them were rough mountains, among 
which lay deep fields of snow; but shortly after they 
started on their way, they heard the roll of thunder, 
and looking toward the valley saw a thunder storm in 
progress. As the sky cleared, they could see a shining 
line of water leading toward another broader and 
larger sheet; and in these they recognized the Sac- 
ramento River and the Bay of San Francisco. Yet so 
frequent had been their disappointments during their 
wanderings through the rough mountains that they 
hardly dared to believe that they were at last to pene- ^ 
trate the warm, pleasing country, where they should 
be free from the hardships and exposures of the last 
few months. This night they killed a mule for food, 
and again the next night. Feb. 23 was . their hardest 
day, for they were forced to travel alo'ng steep and 
slippery mountainsides, where moisture, snow and ice, 
together with the tough evergreens of the mountain, 
made walking difficult and . wearisome; but on this 
night a storm showered upon them rain and not snow. 
The men, exhausted by the labor of travel -and by the 
lack of food, were beginning to lose strength and 
courage. 
However, now they were constantly descending. 
The thermometer was just about freezing, arid they 
had left the Sierras behind. The green grass was 
beginning to make its appearance. The river was de- 
scending rapidly, and growing larger. Soon they 
came to deciduous trees and a warmer atmosphere. 
The country was covered with growing plants, arid the 
voices of singing birds were heard in the summer air. 
They were still killing the horses for food. 
Fremont now believed that the main difficulties of : 
the road were over, and leaving Fitzpatrick to follow 
slowly with the main camp, he started ahead with a 
63 
party of eight, intending to reach Mr. Sutter’s house 
as soon as possible, and to return with' provisions and 
fresh animals for the party. Fitzpatrick was' left in 
command of the others, with instructions to bring on 
the animals slowly, for all were very weak. - 
But they were not yet out of their troubles. For 
much of the way the river ran through narrow cafions, 
and the travelers were- obliged to clamber along the 
mountain side, over a road rough and almost impas- 
sable for their enfeebled live stock. However, at their 
camps they found grass. As they went on they were 
obliged to leave their animals behind, and Fremont 
left his favorite horse, Proveau, which could no longer 
keep up. One of the men started back to bring the 
horse, but did not return until the second day, when it 
was apparent that his mind was deranged. This day 
Mr. Preuss, who’ had gone ahead, did not appear at 
night, and his absence caused much anxiety. The next 
day they met some Indians, and kept on down the river, 
still continuing their search for the lost man. They 
came upon tracks of Indians, little piles of mussel shells 
and old fires where they had cooked. On March 4 
they came on an Indian village, where they found 
houses, and near each one a store-house of acorns. 
In the houses were basketfuls of roasted acorns, and 
although the_ Indians had fled, the travelers supplied 
themselves with this food, leaving various small articles 
in payment. In a village not far below three Indian 
women were captured. They were much frightened, 
but encouraged by good treatment offered food. This 
night Mr. Preuss came in, very weak from starvation, 
but not otherwise in bad condition. He had sub- 
sisted on roots, ants, frogs, and had received some 
acorns from Indians whom he met. 
At the next village Indians were found wearing shirts 
of civilized manufacture, and then the}' came to another 
and larger village, where the people were dressed more 
or less in European clothing, llere was a man who 
could speak Spanish, a vaquero in the service of Capt. 
Sutter, whose fort was but a short distance away. At 
the fort Fremont was met by Capt. Sutter, who gave 
him a most cordial reception, and a night of enjoyment 
of all the luxuries that he had so long been without. 
The next day, with fresh horses and provisions, Fre- 
mont hurried back to meet Fitzpatrick, and brought in 
the rest of the party. The second division had had a 
hard time, having lost many animals; so that of the 
sixty-seven horses and mules with which they started 
to cross the Sierras, only thirty-three reached the val- 
ley of the Sacramento. The beef, the bread, and the 
salmon, which Fremont brought, put heart into the 
starving men, and before long they had reached a 
permanent camp not far from Sutter’s fort. 
Capt. Sutter had come to California from the western 
part of Missouri in 1838-39, and had settled in the Sac- 
ramento valley on a large grant of land received from 
the Mexican Government. Though he had at first had 
some trouble with the Indians, he succeeded, by his 
judicious treatment, in converting them into a peacable ’ 
and industrious people. They did practically all the 
work of the ranch, and were paid in shirts, blankets 
and articles of clothing. The soil was fertile, and its 
yield ample. Cattle and horses , were abundanL He 
had a number of mechanics, who made whatever he 
needed. , ' ; 
The blacksmith" of Fremont’s party, desiring to re- 
main in California, was here discharged, as were also 
four others of the party. Derosier, one of the best 
men in the outfit, the one who, a few days before had 
gone back' after Fremont’s hordes, wandered away 
from the crimp arid^never returned. 
On March 24, the party having recovered from the 
suffering endured in crossing tlie mountains, and being 
now once more strong, set out, to continue their jour- ■ 
ney. An ample stock of provisions had been secured, 
and a fresh supply of animals, consisting of 130 horses 
and mules, and about 30 head of cattle, had been 
secured. An Indian herder was furnished by Cript. 
Sutter, to look after the stock, a great p^rt of which ' 
was absolutely wild. From this point it ’was purposed 
to go south, up the valley of the San Joaquin, to a pass 
at its head. Thus, they were to move southeastwardly 
to reach the Spanish trail, which led to Santa Fe. 
Following this trail through the desert, they would be 
sure of water, even though sometimes the journeys were 
very long, and might reach the Rocky Mountains some- 
where opposite the southern extremity of the Great 
Salt Lake. Their southward journey was delightful. 
Fremont speaks in terms of enthusiasm of the flowers 
they met with, of the beautiful groves of oaks, the 
songs, of the birds, the sweet odors that perfumed the 
air. Elk and antelope were in great abundance, and 
the horses were so numerous that the travelers feared 
for the safety of the wild stock they were drivirig with 
them. On April 7 they crossed the divide between the 
headwaters of the San Joaquin and the Tule Lakes. 
The passage brought with it more or less of a change 
in climate, and a distinct change in surroundings. In- 
dians were met with constantly, and most of them 
seemed well disposed. As they lowered their altitude, 
after passingfiover the divide, the way became more 
rough, though the feed for the animals was still good. 
On April F3 they met an Indian from the mission 
near the Pueblo of Los Angeles. He told them much . 
about the country, and as it lay on his road, agreed to 
accompany them for two days to point out the way to 
them. As they crossed some low spurs, which gave a 
view of a desert to the east and north of them, their 
guide pointed to it, saying in substance, “On those 
great plains there is neither water nor grass — nothing. 
Every animal that goes out upon them dies.” At length 
their kindly and good-natured guide was obliged to 
leave’ them; but before doing so, he pointed out the 
way to them. On this day they saw a number of an- 
telope among the hills, and on the day following, sev- 
eral deer. Their guide, from an elevated point, had 
shown them land marks where they might expect to 
come upon the Spanish trail, and then he started off 
toward his home near the sea coast. The following 
day they came upon the trail, which greatly encouraged 
them. Here was a road to travel on, and a course to 
follow. Often the distances would be great, but at least 
they were not wintering in the desert, with no notion of 
