GRAY MATTER FOR ROSE GROWERS 
While roses may be grown in any good soil, they flourish better in a rather heavy clay loam 
than they do in light or sandy soil. To those not acquainted with soils it will be well to explain 
that almost any soil that is not sandy or gravel may be classed in a general way as clay, and 
if it is good enough to grow good farm crops or garden vegetables, it is good enough to grow 
roses, and does not need the addition of any great quantity of manure. Application of enough 
manure to just cover the soil from sight is usually sufficient unless the soil is quite poor to start 
with. Good stable manure with not too much straw in it is the best; it should not be too fresh 
but at least partly rotted. If you cannot procure this the dried cattle and sheep manure that 
is now sold in sacks is good. 
Many amateurs make the mistake of having their rose beds too rich. I knew of one who 
took out the original soil to a depth of two feet, filled in the bottom of the trench with eight 
inches of manure, packed solidly and finished with soil which was one half manure. This is 
entirelv too much manure and roses planted in such a bed would not be likely to remain healthy 
for any time, even had he left out the manure at the bottom the soil would have been too rich 
as one-fifth or one-fourth manure is enough. I do not advocate placing clear manure at the 
bottom of the bed though some planters have had fair success in making beds that way. 
Of course the manure used when the roses are planted will become exhausted and must 
be replaced by a top dressing of manure; or fine ground bone may be used at the rate of five pounds 
to the square yard. As a rule this top dressing should not be applied more often then once a 
year. If your soil is very poor or has been filled in with brickbats and refuse, as many city lots 
are, it would be best to remove it entirely to a depth of eighteen inches and fill with good soil 
that is fine and mellow, and properly mixed with manure. 
Any soil you get must come from the surface, that is the first six inches of a good field or 
garden. It is not well to use chip dirt, woods earth or rotted leaves with rose soil, such material 
is good for many plants but not for roses. 
Amateurs sometimes think that planting roses is a serious job, and one to be approached 
with fear and trembling as to probable results. This is not at all true, as it is a job which does 
not need an expert and may be done quickly. 
If the plants are in good condition 95% should grow. 
When ready to plant it is best that the soil be in a moist condition, just moist enough to 
crumble when pressed in the hand. If your plant has been shipped with the soil about the 
roots take the wrappings off but do not disturb the soil; if it should be very dry or the plants 
wilted it will be best to place the roots in water for several hours. 
You can readily judge about how deep the plant was before being taken up, and it should 
be planted the same depth, or an inch or two deeper. In case it be a budded or grafted plant 
there will rarely be any soil shipped with it, and it should be planted four to six inches deeper than 
originally. 
If the soil is properly prepared and mellow, it is not necessary to dig the hole much larger 
than the ball of earth about the roots. When roots show that they have been doubled up in 
packing, they should be straightened out, otherwise it is not necessary. Fill in the soil a little 
at a time and see that it is pressed firmly about the roots, but do not pour any water in the hole. 
Leave that until you get through, then water thoroughly. 
The proper location of your bed is of considerable importance. The soil should be one that 
is not naturally wet. If it does not dry out soon after heavy rains, it should be artificially 
drained, which may be done by running a few lines of tile through it at a depth of two feet. 
The tile, of course, must be carried to low ground or open ditch, where they may discharge the 
surplus water. The bed should have as much sun as possible, a location near trees being 
particularly bad, not only on account of the shade but for the effect the roots of the trees have 
in drawing moisture and fertilizing elements from the soil. Tree roots extend nearly as far 
laterally as the tree is high,' and will injure any growth to at least half that distance from the 
body of the tree. Shade from a house is not so bad if the plants have direct sun part of the day. 
The matter of diseases and insect enemies is usually of less importance than cultivation 
and a proper supply of water. 
Mother Nature is supposed to attend to the watering, as she usually does, but apparently 
the “Old Lady” is much overworked at times and it is well to have a water supply and hose 
handy in case She fails you. It is well also to notice how She goes about the job when She does 
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