64 
THE TOKAIDO. 
Chap. IV. 
day was wet they had loose rain-cloaks over their 
dresses. Their two swords, which were fixed in 
their belts at an angle of forty-five degrees, made 
their dresses stick ont behind ; and as we trotted 
or galloped along the road, they had a curious fly- 
away sort of appearance. As a general rule, they 
are but indifferent horsemen. 
Our road — the Tokaido, or Imperial highway 
already mentioned — led us to the eastward, along 
the shores of the Bay of Yedo. Small shops, tea- 
houses, sheds for the accommodation of travellers, 
and gardens, lined each side of the way. Now 
and then we came to an open space with trees 
planted in the form of an avenue. These were 
chiefly of such species as Cryptomeria japonica, 
Pinus Massmiana , Celtis Orientalis , and Ulmus 
keaki. The glimpses which were obtained, from 
time to time, through these trees and across the 
gardens behind them, were very beautiful. On 
the left, at a little distance, the view was hounded 
by some low hills of irregular form, crowned with 
trees and brushwood ; while on the right the 
smooth waters of the Bay of Yedo were spread out 
before us, here and there studded with the white 
sails of fishing-boats. 
The people along the road were perfectly civil 
and respectful. “Anata Ohio” or “ Good morning, 
sir,” was a common salutation. Ksempfer informs 
us that in his time “ multitudes of beggars crowded 
the roads in all parts of the empire, but particularly 
on the so much frequented Tokaido.” Some of the 
