Chap. IV. TEA-HOUSES. 65 
members of Lord Elgin’s embassy, if I remember 
right, seem to doubt the truth of this, as they did 
not meet with any on the occasion of their visit to 
Kawasaky ; but on this occasion beggars were pro- 
bably kept out of the way by the authorities. 
Truth compels me to state that at the present day, 
as in the days of Kaempfer, the beggars in Japan 
are numerous and importunate. As I rode along 
the road, there were many who “ sat by the way- 
side begging.” These were “ the maimed, the 
halt, the lame, and the blind,” who, as I passed by, 
prostrated themselves on the ground and asked for 
alms. 
Tea-houses for the refreshment and accommoda- 
tion of travellers formed the most remarkable fea- 
ture on the road, and were met with at every few 
hundred yards. These buildings, like the shops, 
are perfectly open in front, and have the floors 
slightly raised and covered with mats, on which 
customers squatted and took refreshment. The 
cooking apparatus was always fully exposed to 
view, with its necessary appendages, such as pots, 
kettles, teacups, and basins. On approaching one 
of these tea-houses some pretty young ladies met us 
in the middle of the road with a tray on which 
were placed sundry cups of tea of very good qua- 
lity. This they begged us to partake of to refresh 
us and help us on our journey. When about six 
miles from Kanagawa we arrived at one of these 
tea-houses which was rather larger than usual. 
Here it seemed to be the duty or privilege of the 
