66 KAWASAKY. Chap. IV. 
landlord to provide water for the horses of tra- 
vellers and Government officials, and consequently 
we found a man ready with a pail of water for our 
horses. It is customary to leave a small present 
in the coin of the country in return for these 
civilities. 
With the exception of a few hundred yards here 
and there, the whole road from Kanagawa to Yedo 
is lined on each side with houses. Now and then 
the single row expands into* a village or town of 
considerable size, teeming with a dense population. 
One of these, named Kawasaky, stands about seven 
or eight miles east from Kanagawa. It seemed a 
busy market-town. The road which formed the 
main street was lined with shops and tea-houses, 
and crowded with people passing to and fro, 
buying and selling, or lolling about looking on. 
Travellers too were numerous, who were either 
going to the capital or returning from it on the 
great highway. Now and then we met a long 
train of coolies and armed men in the wake of a 
norimon containing an official or person of rank. 
The coolies were carrying the luggage, and the 
retainers were in attendance probably as much for 
show as for the protection of their master. 
When we arrived at the further end of Kawa- 
saky we were again politely, stopped by mine host 
of the “ Hotel of Ten Thousand Centuries,” a tea- 
house of the first class, who insisted on our entering 
his establishment for refreshment to ourselves and 
our good steeds. His invitation was seconded by 
