156 
COAST SCENERY. 
upon the statements of Ksempfer, Thunberg, and 
other travellers — and their statements would seem 
to be confirmed in Mr. Alcock’s despatch which I 
have just quoted — Osaca appears to be to Japan 
what Soo-chow was to China in the days before the 
rebellion, and what it may one day become again 
— namely, the great emporium of trade and luxury. 
As we were not at this time bound for Hiogo or 
Osaca, we did not proceed further up the bay, but, 
bearing southward through a narrow strait between 
the islands of Awadji and Nipon, we soon reached a 
wider part of the sea. As we steamed along, the 
scenery was very lovely and enjoyable. A calm 
and glassy sea was skirted on each side by hills 
of various heights from 800 to 2000 feet, some- 
times apparently rugged and barren, and some- 
times covered with trees and brushwood. Thick 
clouds of morning mist rested here and there for a 
while amongst the hills and sometimes on the water, 
and then became dispersed, allowing us to view 
the charming scenery, which for a time had been 
obscured. Fishing-boats were swarming in all 
directions, and their pretty white sails added not 
a little to the beauty of the scenery. The excite- 
ment experienced by the passengers, and even by the 
sailors, was something most unusual ; sketch-books, 
pencils, and journals were all in great request, and 
impressions were produced upon us all which will 
not easily be forgotten. 
We were now in what is called the Harama-nada 
Sea. It gradually widens until the distance be- 
