Chap. XXII. 
WASTE GROUND. 
large tract of land, by far the greatest portion of 
the enclosure is either lying waste or is used as 
garden ground. When we hear of the vast size 
of the Chinese and Tartar cities of Peking, we 
must therefore keep in view such facts as I have 
pointed out, which will moderate our ideas with 
regard to the extent of the population. 
As I approached the wall of the "Tartar city, 
the evening began to close in, and it was neces- 
sary to ride sharply onwards to get through before 
the gates were shut for the night. These are 
invariably closed soon after sunset. 
Next day I had arranged with Mr. Wyndham, 
of Her Majesty’s Legation, to explore the northern 
part of the Tartar city, the Russian cemetery, and 
the Lama temple outside the northern walls. 
Early in the morning, however, a message came 
from the Chinese authorities, requesting foreign 
residents not to go in that direction during the 
day, as the ladies of the Court were expected 
on their return from their flight into Tartary. Of 
course we were too polite to intrude in any way 
upon the privacy of these distinguished personages, 
and gave up the intended excursion until a mes- 
sage came telling us that the ladies had passed in, 
and that the road was clear. 
It was now the end of September, and the 
mornings in Peking were very enjoyable. That 
on which we started for the excursion which had 
been put off was clear and calm, and the air was 
cool and bracing. We were early astir, and the 
2 B 
