Chap. XXIII. PAGODA AT PALE-TWANG. 375 
the Tartar city— and through an extensive suburb, 
I then found myself on a country road. It was 
evidently the great highway between Peking and 
the countries to the westward. • Long trams of 
camels and donkeys were met and passed, loaded 
with various kinds of merchandise. These camels 
were very fine animals, and much larger and 
apparently much stronger than those met with in 
Egypt and Arabia. They were covered with long 
hair, which is, no doubt, intended by nature to 
preserve them from the extreme cold of these 
northern regions. The tuft of long hair on the 
hump had a peculiar appearance as the animals 
moved along in the distance. One of the camels 
in each drove had a bell suspended from its neck, 
which emitted a clear tinkling sound. 
About nine o’clock in the morning I arrived at 
a long straggling town named Pale-twang, and 
halted to breakfast at an inn on the md«de. 
This place is remarkable for a pagoda about 150 
feet in height, which can be seen from the ram- 
parts of Peking, forming an excellent landmark to 
the traveller on this wide plain. Tins pagoda is 
octagonal, having eaves projecting on i aU « 
which are hung many thousands of ht e helk 
which are always tinkling in the wmd. Its lower 
sides are covered with figures of anmen warnom 
gods, and dragons, and heads of d .of 
animals appear to support the waUs. ^together 
it is one of the most remarkable specimens of 
Chinese architecture that have come under my 
